Wine Focus for May: Loire, Chenin Blanc

[Robin Garr]

For Wine Focus this month, we're taking a look at Loire Chenin Blanc, a place and variety that's arguably among the world's best white wines, but one that just doesn't seem to get the same respect as the top terroirs for Riesling or Chardonnay. If you can't find a good Chenin from the Loire, you're welcome to bring Chenin from other parts of the world, but we encourage you to bring a Loire Chenin if you can.

Here are a few rambling thoughts I jotted down when we took on this Focus topic back in 2007:

Here's a conundrum to conjure with: Why is one of the world's 10 most widely planted white grapes, capable of producing indisputably great sweet wines and excellent dry whites as well, often thought of as a mere "niche" grape, producing wines difficult to find in any but the most well-stocked wine shops?

We're talking about Chenin Blanc, which may reach its zenith in the Loire Valley of France but is grown around the world. ...

Perhaps Chenin Blanc's popularity doesn't match its acreage because - like Pinot Grigio and a few other potentially fine varieties - a good deal of it is industrially grown and ends up in mass-market wines with no real varietal character. Still, Chenin Blanc tends to show some personality even in lackluster wines, in the form in tart, palate-cleansing acidity that makes it a useful player in improving anonymous jug-wine blends.

But taste a few really good Chenin Blancs, and chances are you'll become a convert. If you love sweet wines, go directly to the Loire, do not pass "Go," do not collect $200, and fill your glass with one of the great Loire sweeties like Bonnezeaux, Coteaux du Layon, Quarts de Chaume or a sweeter-style Vouvray. These wines at their best are rich, full-bodied, textured, yet fresh and clean, beautifully blending luscious sweetness and singing acidity to make dessert wines perhaps unmatched by any other sweet wine anywhere. They're enjoyable fresh but age amazingly well: The rare, classic Moulin Touchais is still drinking beautifully from the 1957 vintage, if you can find it.

If dry wine is your style, the Loire has you covered, too: Savennières, by some measures, may be the greatest, a dry white that almost demands a decade's aging to show at its best; Vouvray, Montlouis and Saumur, too, among many other Loire regions, make excellent Chenin, dry or sweet or even that lovely in-between style called moelleux or "marrow-like." If you want it bubbly, that can be arranged, too, in the fine, good-value sparkling Vouvray labeled Crémant de la Loire.

Before I saw this WF topic, we had already drunk 3 very different Loire chenins in the last few days.

2011 Château du Hureau Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (4/30/2016)
This is much better than a bottle about 2 years ago. It seems to have filled out and cleaned up to such an extent in that time that I now suspect that the previous bottle was subtly flawed. Attractive aromas of ripe white fruit with some wax polish and cream on both nose and palate; medium bodied and dry, but not bone dry, with round fruit, polished minerals, smooth acidity and underlying "gras" with some backbone but none of those ash notes on the medium length finish. More like what I remember from this estate's previous vintages. Good.


2012 de Neuville Saumur Cuvée Louis François - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (5/1/2016)
Decent crisp fruity bubbly.

1996 Château Pierre-Bise Quarts de Chaume - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume (5/1/2016)
Another disappointment. Colour dark gold. Nose and palate very burnished, sweet and rich with less acidity and minerality than expected and rich toffee and hints of boiled cabbage, which betray incipient oxidation, on the finish. Still drinkable but should not be performing like this. I guess that other bottles may be much better.

Posted from CellarTracker

Pity about the Quarts de Chaume but at the same dinner we had an even worse disappointment in the shape of a Richebourg 1971 from A&F Gros, which was a musty skeleton .

[Robin Garr]

Thanks for getting this month off to a great start, Tim! This one's right in your front yard, isn't it?

Very good subject. Tim will be in his element as he lives fairly close to the action .
(Robin kindly mentions that one can also discuss CB from other areas if ones Loire choice/s are limited.
Lammershoek in the Swartland area (SA) produces some great CB!)

Excellent timing..good read here!!

http://www.wsj.com/articles/the-best-va ... 1462228689

And this, if Robin approves?....http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/52985

While I don't have any recent tasting notes, a very nice non Loire Chenin Blanc is made by Paumonok Vyds on Long Island

TN: 2013 Badenhorst Family Wines Chenin Blanc Secateurs, Swartland SA.

Guess my third bottle. $18 Cdn, SC, 13.5% alc.

Pale yellow color, herbal mineral nose, not too waxy(?). "Ripe tropical fruit nose" comment from across the table. I found it quite appealing..quine and melon on the second day.
Initial entry thought is off-dry, good acidity, mineral tones, ripe apple, pear. Nice grip on the finish, some tartness, has held up very well overnight. Nice CB to start off the month!

[Jenise]

I have two unopened cases sitting downstairs that include some South African CB's. I should open one!

And Bob--much concern for you and your territory up there. That fire's ridiculous--stay safe.

[Robin Garr]

This will be too late for Wine Focus, and it's unabashedly commercial, but still interesting in light of this month's focus:

PORTLAND, Ore. (May 5, 2016) – On Friday, June 17, 2016 Chenin Blanc enthusiasts around the world are invited to raise a glass and toast to celebrate the second annual #DrinkChenin Day, a day designated to honor the amazing and versatile wine varietal. Taste Chenin Blanc wines from Oregon, Washington, California, France, South Africa, and more during special tasting events, curated flights and menu takeovers, experiencing the great breadth and variety of this storied grape. In order to make Chenin Blanc a more household name, the #DrinkChenin campaign was launched in 2015 with #DrinkChenin events hosted in cities across the United States, from New York City to Atlanta to Washington D.C. This year the initiative will reach new global heights with events being held across 18 U.S. cities and notable Chenin Blanc producing regions including France and South Africa.

Always trailblazers in producing lesser-known wine varietals #DrinkChenin founders and owners of Division Winemaking Company Kate Norris and Tom Monroe set out to spread the word about the wine’s amazing range, noted for its distinct versatile range from dry to sweet, vibrancy and beeswax-like character. Norris and Monroe arrived in Oregon in early 2010 to open their pioneering urban winery Division Winemaking Company (DWC). Armed with youthful energy and a wealth of experience and knowledge after learning winemaking in France, Norris and Monroe grew more and more interested in cultivating unique varietals made in a sustainable and minimalist approach. While working in France, Norris and Monroe were briefly exposed to Chenin Blanc and fell in love with its versatility and adaptability and were intrigued to try and taste Northwest versions of the varietal when they arrived in Oregon. While there wasn’t much to try at the time, they worked to revitalize small vineyard sites in the Yakima Valley that were planted in the 1970s, including Willard Farms Vineyard, when Chenin was being “tried out” in the region. The result of their effort was the 2013 Division-Villages “l’Isle Verte” Chenin Blanc. The varietal has been a staple amongst the spring releases for the winery ever since, and has helped Chenin Blanc production pick up steam throughout the Pacific Northwest.

I'm up to my gills in Loire Chenins. I love them! Last night we washed down a Gres Champenois mild brie type cow cheese with a lovely 2002 Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux. Tonight's main course will be a black cod with a 2009 Huet Vouvray Clos de Bourg Sec.

God bless the Huet people for labeling their wines Sec, Demi-Sec, and Moelleux, because otherwise there's always that infernal Loire Chenin guessing game. Earlier in the week I almost opened a bottle of 2002 Laroche Savennieres Roche Aux Moins Cuvee des Nonnes to drink with halibut but luckily remembered just before my corkscrew pierced the cork that previous bottles of that wonderful wine had been on the sweet side of demi-sec. And while we're on the subject of Savennieres and guessing games, these days one has a tough time remembering whether individual Savennieres are not only dry or sweet but whether they are ready to drink just about on release or not until the next millenium. Robin's excellent introduction to this topic says Savenieres require a lot of cellar time, but while that used to be the rule, now it's often not.

And then there's the challenge of even figuring out what Loire wineries made the wines. A twenty year old needs a microscope to read that part of their labels. A love affair with Loire Chenins does have its downside, which may have something to do with why a lot of wine shops don't carry many of them.

And while we're on the subject of Savennieres and guessing games, these days one has a tough time remembering whether individual Savennieres are not only dry or sweet but whether they are ready to drink just about on release or not until the next millenium. Robin's excellent introduction to this topic says Savenieres require a lot of cellar time, but while that used to be the rule, now it's often not.

Clint, I've had a lot of disappointment with badly ageing Savennières, particularly from oxidation.

I bought over 3 dozen mixed bottles of Château d'Epiré at the estate, mainly '95 and '96, basic cuvée, cuvée spéciale and moelleux, and kept them several years as recommended by the owner. Bottles were variable with about two-thirds oxidized to varying degrees, most of the remainder dull and only a small handful of Cuvée Spéciale '96 giving real satisfaction. I have put my 5 remaining bottles of moelleux up for auction.

I had a half dozen Chamboureau La Roche aux Moines Cuvée de l'Avant 2002 from Pierre Soulez; the first two bottles were good but the last three since about 2012 were premoxed and I have very little hope for the remaining bottle. Other vintages of the same wine were mostly satisfactory. And I had better luck than many with the Closel Clos du Papillon '02.

Finally, my only bottle of Coulée de Serrant 1985 was oxidized enough to go down the drain. After 30 years one might say that is normal oxidation but there was frustratingly enough there for me to see what Brad Kane was getting at when he recently praised his much cleaner bottle on CT.

Some people say that mature Savennières is supposed to taste oxidised but I don't buy that argument. I discussed it briefly with Éric Morgat at a tasting, who gave a technical explanation which I can't recall but which can be précised as saying that old style producers, like Epiré then, weren't doing their job properly. I haven't enough experience of his wines with some age to say whether he succeeds better.

God bless the Huet people for labeling their wines Sec, Demi-Sec, and Moelleux, because otherwise there's always that infernal Loire Chenin guessing game.

This has never bothered me because no matter where I am (in whatever city or country), I pretty much buy all my wine from humans who know a lot about the wines they are selling and can answer the relevant questions.

But, your point is still well-taken about broader market friendliness, because not everyone buys wines the way I do!

God bless the Huet people for labeling their wines Sec, Demi-Sec, and Moelleux, because otherwise there's always that infernal Loire Chenin guessing game.

This has never bothered me because no matter where I am (in whatever city or country), I pretty much buy all my wine from humans who know a lot about the wines they are selling and can answer the relevant questions.

But, your point is still well-taken about broader market friendliness, because not everyone buys wines the way I do!

Rahsaan, you are extremely fortunate and very much in a minority, if you always buy your wine from people who can guide you in the absence of such basic guidance as dryness/sweetness from the producer. Lack of such guidance one of my regular rants and I personally refuse to buy a wine when I have any doubt about this. Huet and Foreau as well as certain Alsace producers are much to be congratulated for providing the guidance. IMO it should be made a mandatory labelling requirement in a standardised format; the one proposed by thge International Riesling Foundation seems admirable to me for this purpose.

Tonight had the Richard Leroy Clos des Rouliers Anjou 2009, which was my first taste of Leroy in several years. I don't know/remember what it was like on release, but there is a nice element of emerging harmony that probably was not there at the time. Perhaps still a bit marked by the elevage, and I have no idea where this will go in the future. But it was lovely fun as an aperitif and I was not over-analyzing.

This Wine Focus prompted me to bring home the first bottle we've opened in more than a decade of Domaine Huet 2002 Vouvray "Le Haut-Lieu," Demi-Sec, $30.00 in 2004. We have two more of these, too, and I've been concerned about premox. Tonight, after finding nettles at the farmer's market, I made a batch of nettle ravioli filled with homemade ricotta; once we discovered that the Huet was in decent condition, I decided to "sauce" the ravioli with toasted walnuts drizzled in honey and flake salt, thyme, Tuscan olio novello, and shaved parmesan. The wine was stunning: light golden in color, rich but lively and without any trace of oxidation -- a really vibrant combination of honey and waxy musk-melon supported by just the right degree of acidity as well as some baking spice. Not too sweet to pair with a savory dish, though the touch of honey in the pasta helped integrate it Marvelous. I can only pray the other two bottles show this well!

Terrific, just hope my `05s are spot on too!

Tonight had the Richard Leroy Clos des Rouliers Anjou 2011, which was my first taste of Leroy in several years. I don't know/remember what it was like on release, but there is a nice element of emerging harmony that probably was not there at the time. Perhaps still a bit marked by the elevage, and I have no idea where this will go in the future. But it was lovely fun as an aperitif and I was not over-analyzing.

Good one Rahsaan, which other whites come from Leroy??

Into my first glass of Roulerie 2013 Anjou Blanc, v big acidity here...whoa!

Ok Rahsaan, just found this on Leroy!!

http://www.wineterroirs.com/2014/08/ric ... loire.html

Ok Rahsaan, just found this on Leroy!!

http://www.wineterroirs.com/2014/08/ric ... loire.html

Richard Leroy is a new name for me. I must have been asleep. The RVF's 2016 rates him a ** producer (max *** and very rare). Re 2013 they have this to say -

"Quelle habile gestion de ce difficile millésime 2013 ! La magie est vraiment au rendez-vous."

That doesn't seem to be your experience, Bob . RVF would have been tasting a year ago when the aromas were in the first flush of youth and they may have shut down since then leaving the acidity exposed. I had a similar experience with some 2013 Jasnières of which I bought three bottles after liking it at a tasting in autumn 2014.

Ok Rahsaan, just found this on Leroy!!

http://www.wineterroirs.com/2014/08/ric ... loire.html

Richard Leroy is a new name for me. I must have been asleep..

As you can see in Bob's link, he started in the 1990s but quickly got many fans. I haven't drunk enough of his wines to have an opinion one way or the other. But the folks I was with last night are huge fans and constantly praise his virtues. The 2009 (I mistakenly typed 2011 last night) Rouliers did not impress with its genius, but that was fine, it was delicious, it was not the most analytical of settings, and it was a lovely meal.

This Wine Focus prompted me to bring home the first bottle we've opened in more than a decade of Domaine Huet 2002 Vouvray "Le Haut-Lieu," Demi-Sec, $30.00 in 2004. We have two more of these, too, and I've been concerned about premox. Tonight, after finding nettles at the farmer's market, I made a batch of nettle ravioli filled with homemade ricotta; once we discovered that the Huet was in decent condition, I decided to "sauce" the ravioli with toasted walnuts drizzled in honey and flake salt, thyme, Tuscan olio novello, and shaved parmesan. The wine was stunning: light golden in color, rich but lively and without any trace of oxidation -- a really vibrant combination of honey and waxy musk-melon supported by just the right degree of acidity as well as some baking spice. Not too sweet to pair with a savory dish, though the touch of honey in the pasta helped integrate it Marvelous. I can only pray the other two bottles show this well!

Sounds delicious on all fronts. And just my kind of match: Italian cuisine and Touraine wine!

[David M. Bueker]

I had a 2005 Huet Le Mont Sec all set for last night, when a last minute change of mind had me grab a Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge to go with my dinner.

The Huet will be consumed sometime this month.

For those searching for Loire chenin, 2013 is probably the most available vintage at present, which is a pity because a lot of the wines are somewhat acidic and simplistic. I posted recently about a couple of Savennières like that and Bob is having a similar experience with a Roulerie. It would be easy to desist for buying without reliable recommendation but if that recommendation is a year+ old it may not be reliable as to how the wine is tasting now. To illustrate that I have dug out a couple of TNs on a 2013 from Jasnières which showed very well in late 2014.

2013 Domaine les Maisons Rouges Jasnières Domaine les Maisons Rouges L'Eclos - France, Loire Valley, Jasnières (12/5/2014)
This young Jasnières, made from organic grapes, is very promising. The nose shows lively aromas of apple, pear and quince and the medium bodied dry palate shows great purity and adds flinty minerals, lively acidity and a nice underlying roundness. It is still perhaps a bit simplistic but, if the oxidation bullet can be avoided, I would expect greater complexity in the medium term. However, I am tempted not to wait with my remaining two bottles because it is already delicious in its present state. Good+.


2013 Domaine les Maisons Rouges Jasnières Domaine les Maisons Rouges L'Eclos - France, Loire Valley, Jasnières (7/31/2015)
This wine seems to have closed down aromatically with the fruit flavours and aromas much less perceptible than last December with the lively minerality and acidity much more to the fore. Less interesting but still pleasing in its present state.
Posted from CellarTracker

I am inclined to doubt now whether more age will bring the greater complexity which I talked about in my December '14 TN but, just in case, I'll keep my hands off my remaining bottle.

That will be a very interesting exercise Tim!! I am tempted to do the same with the Roulerie .