LA Times op-ed bashes Parkerization

I actually tasted through the Corison line of wines today (inspired by this post). Definitely not the standard Napa cabs. Very very lean, austere, high acidity. Bright cherry rather than the dark currant and black fruit I am used to. Not sure about typicite or how well they say "Napa" or "Rutherford" though.

The 1998 Napa Valley was still very lively, energetic. Almost reminded me of some of the "Natural" wines I have been tasting through.

Not sure these wines "work" very well in a tasting room situation by themselves. They badly need food. .

Brian,
I don't know what they were pouring (apart from the '98) for you, but when we visited Corison in December, we tasted the '03 Kronos and '04 Napa, both of which just blew us away. For me, they brought back a rush of memories of California Cabernets from the late '70s through early '90s. Believe it or not, Caymus, Chateau Montelena, Mondavi and Phelps all used to taste like those wines, too. I found them neither austere nor hard to appreciate without food, though there's no question that they'll complement food nicely. What was also noteworthy was how distinct the two wines were: the Napa was darker, more structured; the Kronos was more herbal and rich. I'll also note that Charlie Olken similarly went apeshit over them in the pages of Connoisseur's Guide to California Wine.

Mark Lipton

Thanks for the reply, Mark...I definitely lack your history. Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed the tasting-it was just so different

They were tasting the same wines today. I had a little different reaction-I found the Kronos richer, like you did, but also a little darker. The Napa Valley was very cherry-ish and bright to me. The Merlot had a similar cherry brightness.

When I mention typicite and Rutherford, I guess what I mean is that they lacked the "dusty" character that a lot of modern Napa cabs, at least the ones that I like, have. Or, am I just "expecting" that characteristic in wine, being prime by descriptions and the press to look for rutherford dust?

Note that saying "they need food" doesn't mean I don't like them. I like to drink wine with food, usually.

Dale, The book wasn't horrible, it was just boring. It ended up being my toilet book and i still had to read it hoping for some interest. Simply put, she just isn't a very good writer. Knowing she deceived Bob made it all the more tough. And skeptical. She simply needs to be more creative........ C'est La Vie....

mark

In my spare time I was reading "Bacchus and Me" by Jay McInerny. He makes a point about how some of the best grapes (and wines) in California come from the hillsides rather than the valley floor--

JC,

That phenomenon is not unique to California. In fact, it's been known for ages. Classical Greeks knew it when they anointed the mountain vineyards of the islands. The famous Roman vintage of 121BC was established in three hillside locations--top status was given to the highest hillside point, and so on throughout history.

Crop quality in cooler, higher elevation seems often to out pace warmer valleys.

I actually tasted through the Corison line of wines today (inspired by this post). Definitely not the standard Napa cabs. Very very lean, austere, high acidity. Bright cherry rather than the dark currant and black fruit I am used to. Not sure about typicite or how well they say "Napa" or "Rutherford" though.

The 1998 Napa Valley was still very lively, energetic. Almost reminded me of some of the "Natural" wines I have been tasting through.

Not sure these wines "work" very well in a tasting room situation by themselves. They badly need food. .

Brian,
I don't know what they were pouring (apart from the '98) for you, but when we visited Corison in December, we tasted the '03 Kronos and '04 Napa, both of which just blew us away. For me, they brought back a rush of memories of California Cabernets from the late '70s through early '90s. Believe it or not, Caymus, Chateau Montelena, Mondavi and Phelps all used to taste like those wines, too. I found them neither austere nor hard to appreciate without food, though there's no question that they'll complement food nicely. What was also noteworthy was how distinct the two wines were: the Napa was darker, more structured; the Kronos was more herbal and rich. I'll also note that Charlie Olken similarly went apeshit over them in the pages of Connoisseur's Guide to California Wine.

Mark Lipton

I really like the Corison wines. The 94 was outstanding and the 97 was good also but not up to the 94. Have you had any of the Long Meadow Ranch wines from when Cathy was the winemaker? I have a bottle of 99 in the cellar but that's the only one I have and I keep waiting to open it up.

I believe the girl is still pissed off at being kicked off EBob. Check out her Blog. She is a writer using Parker's fame as a stepping stone for her own gain.

She does seem to go on and on about it; she's in danger of becoming a Johnny One Note. And if, as the subtitle of her book claims, she saved the world from Parkerization, why is she still complaining about it?

Thomas,
Jay McInerny does make that point about hillsides usually producing the best grapes (look at the steep slopes of the Mosel or Rheingau, etc.) and wonders if the early California growers planted in the valley for convenience rather than quality. Harlan sought out hillside parcels for his vineyards. However, I really cotton to the elegance of some Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve wines and BV Georges de Latour that do come from the valley so it can be done if the viticulturist and winemaker want to make an elegant, restrained wine and don't overcrop and overripen the grapes.

[David M. Bueker]

As far as the author - she saved the world from nothing. I was interested in her book, but the title is such a self-important turn-off that I'm not going to bother (unless someone gives it to me).

Want to read about somebody saving the world? Pick up Three Cups of Tea about a guy (Greg Mortenson) who builds schools in Pakistan.

Yes, I've heard about "Three Cups of Tea," David, but haven't yet read it.

I really like the Corison wines. The 94 was outstanding and the 97 was good also but not up to the 94. Have you had any of the Long Meadow Ranch wines from when Cathy was the winemaker? I have a bottle of 99 in the cellar but that's the only one I have and I keep waiting to open it up.

Not tried them, Brian. Have ridden by/driven by the property-and it's a beauty for sure!

As far as the author - she saved the world from nothing. I was interested in her book, but the title is such a self-important turn-off that I'm not going to bother (unless someone gives it to me).

C'mon, David. Surely you don't think that Alice seriously believes or claims to have saved the world from anything. Does she need to include a smiley in the title for people to appreciate ironic humor when they read it?

Mark Lipton

Thomas,
Jay McInerny does make that point about hillsides usually producing the best grapes (look at the steep slopes of the Mosel or Rheingau, etc.) and wonders if the early California growers planted in the valley for convenience rather than quality. Harlan sought out hillside parcels for his vineyards. However, I really cotton to the elegance of some Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve wines and BV Georges de Latour that do come from the valley so it can be done if the viticulturist and winemaker want to make an elegant, restrained wine and don't overcrop and overripen the grapes.

On the other hand, the most famous wines from Napa are from Bordeaux varieties, and Bordeaux is essentially flat, like the valley floor...

Good point, Oliver.

Thomas,
Jay McInerny does make that point about hillsides usually producing the best grapes (look at the steep slopes of the Mosel or Rheingau, etc.) and wonders if the early California growers planted in the valley for convenience rather than quality. Harlan sought out hillside parcels for his vineyards. However, I really cotton to the elegance of some Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve wines and BV Georges de Latour that do come from the valley so it can be done if the viticulturist and winemaker want to make an elegant, restrained wine and don't overcrop and overripen the grapes.

On the other hand, the most famous wines from Napa are from Bordeaux varieties, and Bordeaux is essentially flat, like the valley floor...

It's not just about the contour of the landscape, though. Napa's flat parts are valley floor, consisting of rich alluvial deposits and not draining at all well. The Medoc is on a plateau that, despite being fairly level, does drain well. Also, the soils of the Mèdoc, largely alluvial gravel deposits, aren't nearly as fecund as the soil of the Napa Valley floor.

Mark Lipton

It's not just about the contour of the landscape, though. Napa's flat parts are valley floor, consisting of rich alluvial deposits and not draining at all well. The Medoc is on a plateau that, despite being fairly level, does drain well. Also, the soils of the Mèdoc, largely alluvial gravel deposits, aren't nearly as fecund as the soil of the Napa Valley floor.

Mark Lipton

Also, the Medoc was never known for its high quality dried fruit production.

Thomas,
Jay McInerny does make that point about hillsides usually producing the best grapes (look at the steep slopes of the Mosel or Rheingau, etc.) and wonders if the early California growers planted in the valley for convenience rather than quality. Harlan sought out hillside parcels for his vineyards. However, I really cotton to the elegance of some Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve wines and BV Georges de Latour that do come from the valley so it can be done if the viticulturist and winemaker want to make an elegant, restrained wine and don't overcrop and overripen the grapes.

On the other hand, the most famous wines from Napa are from Bordeaux varieties, and Bordeaux is essentially flat, like the valley floor...

Bordeaux is not exactly a hot viticultural region, it's even damp compared to arid valleys.

Of course, you can find exceptions to every rule, but that does not negate the evidence--it merely points out the exceptions. But Mark has gotten it right.

Hills provide natural drainage, both water and air, and elevation on a plateau provides it too. Also, hills don't often provide lush, productive soils. Seems grapevines like those conditions a lot, and since their tap roots can reach 30-plus feet, they like hills even better!

A major 12th and 13th century shift brought economic power to Northern Europe. In the process, the nobility began to develop many of our modern grapevines. They found the resulting wines more elegant and refined than the Southern European counterparts. The difference has been attributed to growing conditions.

[David M. Bueker]

As far as the author - she saved the world from nothing. I was interested in her book, but the title is such a self-important turn-off that I'm not going to bother (unless someone gives it to me).

C'mon, David. Surely you don't think that Alice seriously believes or claims to have saved the world from anything. Does she need to include a smiley in the title for people to appreciate ironic humor when they read it?

Mark Lipton

Given how strident she is in her stance I think she deserves any criticism I can level at her. She should be able to take it.

Given how strident she is in her stance I think she deserves any criticism I can level at her. She should be able to take it.

and bringing it full-circle, that's perhaps that's one reason many pile into criticism of Parker, who can be very strident in his own right.

Thomas,
Jay McInerny does make that point about hillsides usually producing the best grapes (look at the steep slopes of the Mosel or Rheingau, etc.) and wonders if the early California growers planted in the valley for convenience rather than quality. Harlan sought out hillside parcels for his vineyards. However, I really cotton to the elegance of some Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve wines and BV Georges de Latour that do come from the valley so it can be done if the viticulturist and winemaker want to make an elegant, restrained wine and don't overcrop and overripen the grapes.

On the other hand, the most famous wines from Napa are from Bordeaux varieties, and Bordeaux is essentially flat, like the valley floor...

It's not just about the contour of the landscape, though...

Mark Lipton

Of course it's not. Direct comparison of different growing areas, especially old and new world areas, is invidious. I was making a limited point, which stands; I would add that the famous Napa Cabernets of yore (I remember with great pleasure a 1970 Mondavi 'Unfiltered' Cabernet Sauvignon, for example) were grown on the valley floor. (I will cheerfully admit to not having tasted Harlan, however.)