Mark S wrote:David M. Bueker wrote:... but I do not get the point of proving that zinfandel can be made to taste like it is not zinfandel.
With the disclaimer that I have not yet had this bottle, I'd agree with the sentiment, and wonder why the fascination with this by the Loire-heads. It seems you can make a wine any way you want, but for what purpose? To be the hero of the 'anti' crowds? Of course, if it is only a matter of picking early and letting the wine express that...
A valid question, Mark, and one that I've spent some effort puzzling out. One answer is that experimentation is always of interest, as David's note on the Vitovska points out. Some experiments (such as, e.g., Pinot Noir in 200% new oak) may not be to our liking, and if so we are wise to steer clear of them. However, in the case of the L'Enfant, there is more. It was made for a specific purpose: to pair better with food than the dominant paradigm of Zin. It involves more than picking early, as it also involved cool-climate grapes, elevage in neutral cooperage and use of indigenous yeasts. Perhaps it doesn't fit your image of what Zin should/can be, and that is fine, but it
is Zin, just as Kosta-Browne PN
is Pinot Noir despite what our senses tell us.

Lastly, despite its superficial resemblance to Beaujolais, I hold the suspicion that it will age long and well. It's certainly got the acid, and judging by what goes on in the glass after an hour or two, it'll veer toward far more typicity than it currently shows.
David: thanks for the interesting notes. Bummer about all those disappointing bottles.
Mark Lipton