Wine Focus for February: Organic and more

[Robin Garr]

The label makes no claim for natural or organic status, but its provenance - Puzelat-Bonhomme from Louis/Dressner - leaves me in little doubt that it's a fit for this topic.

Puzelat-Bonhomme 2012 Touraine Pinot Noir ($22.99 in 2013)

Roses and violets on the nose, very subtle but appealing floral scents, carry over on the palate to join tart red fruit, with a stony rippling brook minerality as a back note. This complex mix of flowers and zippy acidity linger in a long, food-friendly finish. Alcohol claimed: 12.5%. U.S. importer: LDM Wines, NYC, Louis/Dressner Selections. (Feb. 18, 2015)

Food match: Beef stew. Oh, all right: "Beef" stew.

Importer website:
http://www.louisdressner.com

This now biodynamic estate is in the Côte du Marmandais located along the Garonne about half-way between Bordeaux and Toulouse. Elian da Ros is the outstanding producer there but, partly under his influence, other good ones are now emerging. I don't know whether the estate was already officially organic or biodynamic in 2002 when this wine was made. However the important thing, IMO, is that organic/biodynamic methods are often, as here, the logical consequence of a perfectionist but low interventionist state of mind which is operative long before the technical requirements for certification are met.

Served with organic chicken and vegetables!

2002 Elian Da Ros Côtes du Marmandais Clos Baquey - France, Southwest France, Côtes du Marmandais (2/18/2015)
Wine made from 30% Cabernet franc, 30% merlot, 20% Abouriou, 20% cabernet sauvignon. I have been an admirer of this now biodynamic estate since its first vintage in 1997 and this is its top cuvée. Deep red colour and well developed nose of rich red fruit and some minerals. The palate was full/medium bodied and quite concentrated showing more rich red fruit with a splash of port towards the finish, made more complex by minerals and hints of spice and leather and enlivened by still bright acidity. Length was decent and the finish was well supported by discreet ripe tannins. Would be an excellent ringer in a blind line-up of good Grand Cru St.Émilions. Very good.

Posted from CellarTracker

[Robin Garr]

Puzelat-Bonhomme 2012 Touraine Pinot Noir ($22.99 in 2013)

I like it even a little better on the second night. The intense floral scents are a little more muted, leaving a more balanced wine with the lean, tart fruit showing nicely, and an appealing "white papper" note has come in. Really good. It has changed enough that I doubt another day would have served it well, but no matter. It's gonie. (I think I may have one or two more around, though! I'll probably leave them on their sides for another year or so.)

Barranco Oscuro Rubaiyat 2008 - label
I believe this is the pure Syrah from Alpujarras, Spain. It is a "natural" wine and smells like it (in a good way) but it also has all that game bird's blood aroma that I so like in this grape (or if I remember wrong and it isn't Syrah it smells rather like a Syrah unless my mind is playing tricks and I smell Syrahsity because I think I'm drinking Syrah). Fairly light on the palate, not terribly high in acidity or tannins but firm instead of flabby. Some heat on the finish but nothing worrisome. Hence it was a massive shock to see 15% on the label. Nice wine. And not just because I like Persian poetry and Islamic Spain.

I have to confess I'm not terribly bothered by whether or not something is organic, conventional or "natural" or whatever. In a useless, luxury product (in the grand scheme of things, that is) like wine it's just not that important. Aesthetically I am still in love with many "natural" and biodynamic wines though the woo-woo aspects of such agriculture sometimes does drive me insane.

I picked this up at an organic supermarket along with a Chinon from Ch.de Coulaine, which I trust will be better.

2012 Didier Montchavet Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits (2/24/2015)
Light/medium colour and body. Some might even call it thin but the flavours are refreshingly pure and attractive with fresh red fruit, a lot of grainy minerals and lively acidity with decent length. Quite elegant and quite good served cool but indifferent QPR at €14, probably overpriced due to "Bourgogne" on the label.

Posted from CellarTracker

PS I tried to do a Wine Searcher price comparison with Robin's much better sounding Touraine PN from Puzelat but, strangely, came up with no hits for any wines for that grower in Europe outside the UK. It could be that he is only sold over here by smaller but enthusiastic cavistes who, like many in France and Belgium, don't bother with WS.