Wine Focus for March: The wines of Alsace

I don't remember the wines in Alsace being overpriced there. The supply was so great that something very good could be found in just about any village at a reasonable price. Here the stores I visit typically offer a good-sized selection but the prices are way out of my range. Move down the aisle a bit to the Loire section or over to Italian or Spanish whites and it's a totally different picture. In effect, Alsace has priced itself out of my market. It makes me wonder how well they move.

[David M. Bueker]

2002 Albert Boxler Riesling Brand - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru (3/12/2016)
The last time I had this wine was about 2 years ago, and it was basically perfect at that time. I did not realize I still had another bottle, so when I ran across it last night I had to open it. What followed was a bit of a wild ride that flirted with overripe and then later racy and rich. When I first opened the wine it showed as a vendange tardive with full on sweetness and rich peach, apple and botrytis spice. After about an hour this razor sharp vein of acidity emerged and for a while the wine was painful to drink. Fast forward another hour and the acidity integrated with the sweetness and the balanced wine I remembered from a couple of years ago finally emerged. A truly wild ride.

L32K

2002 Dirler-Cade Riesling Kessler Cuvée Cécile - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru (2/6/2016)
A lovely harmonious Riesling probably at its peak. Light gold colour, discreet nose with beautiful subdued aromas of white fruit and flowers, minerals and faint hints of petrol. Medium bodied and complex palate, not bone dry, full of white fruit, refined minerals, a little spice, fresh acidity with underlying "gras" discreet backbone and good length. Very good.

Posted from CellarTracker

Finally got around to some eau de vie, Materne Haegelin Sureau Noir (black elderberry). Not much detail for a tasting note and not as much overt fragrance as other fruits (pear is my favorite for bringing such intense fruit aromas, anyone know what makes it so amenable to brandy?), but nice and worth a small glass or two.

[Jenise]

Last night we enjoyed another bottle of the 2014 Meyer-Fonne white blend called Edelzwicker. I had already relieved a local retailer of his entire supply of 8 bottles at $11.95 less 15% (MSRP about $19.95, a Kermit Lynch import, 1 liter bottles), but over the weekend ran into it again mismarked at $9.95 so, back up the truck, I emptied the shelf AGAIN. This is probably the best buy in a white wine I've ever had. There's some bottle variation but all the variations are great. A previous bottle leaned more toward chardonnay and pinot gris, where last night's leaned toward a both muscadet and dry gewurz--beautifully floral and spicy nose with citrus notes and a dusty limestone minerality.

[David M. Bueker]

2002 Dirler-Cade Riesling Kessler Cuvée Cécile - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru (2/6/2016)
A lovely harmonious Riesling probably at its peak. Light gold colour, discreet nose with beautiful subdued aromas of white fruit and flowers, minerals and faint hints of petrol. Medium bodied and complex palate, not bone dry, full of white fruit, refined minerals, a little spice, fresh acidity with underlying "gras" discreet backbone and good length. Very good.

Posted from CellarTracker

Neat - an older D-C. I only recently got access to the wines again. Very happy to be drinking recent vintages.

The vineyard under the wall is part of Trimbach's Clos Ste Hune.

No, it is not, but please keep on telling people. That way tourists will not steal grapes from the real CSH!

Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L

The vineyard under the wall is part of Trimbach's Clos Ste Hune.

No, it is not, but please keep on telling people. That way tourists will not steal grapes from the real CSH!

Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L

So, the picture on the label is misleading?

Smart Alsatians!

Actually, here Mr. Trimbach seems speaking from a place quite far from the church

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzKM3pbuseg

It is indeed! If you really want to visit the vineyard some time, send me a PM and I will give you directions.

Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L

Finally got around to some eau de vie, Materne Haegelin Sureau Noir (black elderberry). Not much detail for a tasting note and not as much overt fragrance as other fruits (pear is my favorite for bringing such intense fruit aromas, anyone know what makes it so amenable to brandy?), but nice and worth a small glass or two.

Following up, tonight was G.E. Massenez Poire Williams and Framboise Sauvage, my two favorite eau-de-vie fruits from an excellent house. Well worth drinking.

2013 Domaine Weinbach Cuvée Théo Gewurztraminer

Light straw in color. Restrained nose uncharacteristic of my limited experience with the normally aromatic and distinctive variety. Full-bodied, very viscous mouthfeel, honeysuckle, lychee, and a more characteristic spicy cinnamon note, especially on finish.

Honestly, I purchased this both to enjoy and for gifts in honor of a new addition to our extended family: baby Theo.

The Domaine Weinbach vineyards and winery are in Kientzheim just northwest of Colmar and were established in 1612 by Capuchin monks. More recently, the producer has been run by three women of the Faller family. Their names are on the label: Colette, Catherine and Laurence (female). Unfortunately the family has been struck by some tragedy of late. Colette, the matriarch of the family, passed away in early 2015 and her daughter and winemaker, Laurence, passed away about a year earlier.

The various cuvées are named after selected family members. Théo is Catherine’s son, and he shares the name with his late maternal grandfather. Théo is also involved in the business.

The historic Théo vineyard is 12 acres in size and protected by the walls of the former Capuchin monks’ monastery.

theo_wine.jpg

2013 Domaine Weinbach Cuvée Théo Gewurztraminer

Colette, the matriarch of the family, passed away in early 2015 and her daughter and winemaker, Catherine, passed away about a year earlier.

It was Laurence who died prematurely. A highly talented vigneronne (grape farmer and winemaker), who is sorely missed. Catherine always had a more commercial and administrative role and is still going strong.

2013 Domaine Weinbach Cuvée Théo Gewurztraminer

Colette, the matriarch of the family, passed away in early 2015 and her daughter and winemaker, Catherine, passed away about a year earlier.

It was Laurence who died prematurely. A highly talented vigneronne (grape farmer and winemaker), who is sorely missed. Catherine always had a more commercial and administrative role and is still going strong.

Ack, of course you are right. I am so sorry. Correcting now.

While hanging out with friends at a bar, I enjoyed from their by-the-glass menu a white blend, Good Earth White 2014, by Silver Thread Vineyards, a winery in the Finger Lakes. It is a blend of Vidal Blanc, Riesling and Gewurztramner, with the exact percentages varying by vintage, though Vidal Blanc always seems to make up the greatest share. I hope it still qualifies for the month's focus topic.

The nose is fresh, and features the scent of white flowers. It remains fresh on the palate with stone fruit making its presence felt. Overall, its a refreshing wine, with enough acidity to keep it lively, yet in keeping with its overall balance. It's very suitable for sipping on its own, though it could also accompany a tossed chicken salad without being overwhelmed. List price on the winery's website is $14, and the bar charged $8 for the glass.

Best,
-> Pinchas

2002 René Muré Riesling Vorbourg - France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru (4/2/2016)
Another lovely Riesling from 2002. Colour quite deep gold and open nose full of white fruit, flowers and minerals with a hydrocarbon touch. Medium + bodied palate not quite bone dry with plenty of fruit and minerals, lively mouth-watering acidity, good backbone and an underlying burnished touch. Slightly fuller, I think, with slightly less finesse than a recent Dirler-Cadé but very good.

I've been impressed by Ziegler's Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer. Both offer good quality at a reasonable price, exceptions to the recent drift of Alsace. I think it's from Jean Ziegler in Riquewihr, but a bunch of producers by that name are in the general area.