September Wine Focus: Chardonnay!

[David M. Bueker]

There are virtually none on the shelves near me, except for the critter wines.

[Jenise]

Pre-mox has hit my cellar pretty hard. But there have been some gems.

2007 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest Chardonnay
Last two bottles, both oxidated.

2013 Ropiteau Meursault Chardonnay
Ripe, golden color. More toasted oak than I recall from the small tasting room sample. On the palate, pear fruit with pineapple. But still, balanced delivery and say what you will about oak because of that, this wine paired especially well with a salad featuring a roasted walnut oil in the vinaigrette and raw walnuts (the tannins in walnut skin like the tannins in young wine) in the mix of nutty greens and raddichio. A classic case of 1+1 making 3.

2014 Samuel Billaud Chablis Chardonnay
Ardent nose of flint with assertive lemon-lime undertones that I don't recall from the first bottle of this we opened six months ago. Subtler on the mid-palate with a whack of tang on the finish. Needs time to calm down, I think.

2005 La Pousse d'Or Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret
So here's my Tim York-meets-Patchen-Markell moment. Last week we went out to lunch in Vancouver, a throwback style classic French restaurant, and I opted to take a bottle from our cellar rather than pay Vancouver prices. I looked through my bottles for an aged RED burgundy and decided, based on the '05 Chandon de Briailles 1er Cailleret we'd opened in early August that a Pousse D'Or would be a delicious choice and entertaining comparison exercise. At lunch I presented the bottle to the Somm, who clucked in approval, and asked if I preferred it decanted. Yes, indeed.

Couldn't believe my eyes when out of that bottle came yellow wine.

The back story: so long ago that I would have forgotten it ever happened but for this thing happening, I recall putting auction purchases away and remembering ever so vaguely being interested in a white Pousse D'Or but since I didn't come across it, concluded I must have been mistaken. It was now obvious that I HAD won it but presumed it be a red. It did not have a yellow capsule, as do most Burgundian whites. Had I known I had it, it would have been consumed long ago.

But oh how glad I am that things turned out otherwise, as this wine was perfection for aged white Burgundy. On the tawny side of straw gold; looks mature but not old. Heady aromatics and aged flavors of apple pie, pear preserves and green gauge plums. Long long finish, no hint of oxidation. Exquisite with pan-seared sable fish.

2012 La Follette Lorenzo Vineyard Chardonnay: Sonoma Co. ABV of 13.8%; color of medium straw, both nose and palate of deep lemon essence with obvious smokeyness and an herbal note. great balance with probably 8-10 years potential ahead of it. Nicely viscous too. Wish I had a LOT more.

Jenise, glad your taste buds have recovered from whatever ailed them. Jim, I had a nice La Follette Chardonnay at MO'COOL--was it one you brought?

Comparison of 2011 and 2012 vintages of Walter Hansel Cuvee Alyce Chardonnay, Hansel Family Vineyard, Russian River Valley, CA.

The 2011 was labeled 14.2% abv. The wine is a rich gold color with transparency. It shows viscosity, leaving legs on the side of the glass. It is quite aromatic with fruit scents of pear and tart apple with some spice notes, probably from oak. In the mouth, it is slightly tart with mineral lacing backing up the pear and apple fruit. Overall, it is harmonious with medium body and a lengthy finish. While some oak is noticeable, I would not call this buttery or flabby at all. I paired it with fried shrimp the first evening and liked how it partnered with the shrimp. I also had it with smoked Gouda cheese and found that to be a great pairing. I finished the 2011 today and will finish the 2012 tomorrow with a homemade chicken salad. (The chicken salad recipe is from "Cooking Light" and incorporates bok choy, radishes, dried apricots and slivered almonds.)

The golden color of the 2012 vintage was pretty much identical to the 2011 vintage. The nose was remarkably similar but slightly less strong in the aromatics. I think in a blind tasting of six or eight CA chards, one could easily pick out these two as from the same producer/vineyard. The alcohol content was slightly higher, labeled as 14.5% abv. In my CellarTracker ratings I am giving the 2011 vintage one additional point but it is a close call. The wines cost about $40.00 a bottle at several wine stores.








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Domaine Jean-Claude Bessin 2014 Chablis, Vielles Vignes. Our first 2014 Chablis. Very light color, muted nose on first opening, but quickly opens up. Some crisp apple and lemon fruit, which becomes slightly richer with some time. Relatively light body, finishing with a very strong crushed seashell and saline note, and possibly just a hint of new wood. Not the most intense or concentrated young Chablis, but I really dig the seashell-saline thing, and overall it's a solid wine. $19, discounted from $25. Looking forward to trying the La Forêt and Valmur in a few years.

Yes Jane, that La Follette was mine but sold to Luci for her to bring to MoCool. That bottle last nite just got better over a couple hours while we watched a movie. Amazing wine!

I am not your average Chardonnay drinker but will play this month! Prefer the unoaked style so no big oaky creamy monsters for me.

TN: 2014 Giusti Dei Carni Chardonnay delle Venezie, Italy.

Owner from Calgary who made his fortune over here and then moved to Italy. SC, $20 Cdn, 12.%% alc. Lot # 198.15. I have seen quite a few of his wines here in AB of late so eager to try most of the small portfolio on the shelves in my area. This white is non-oaked and stirred on its lees.

Color is pale straw with green reflections. On the nose there are some floral pleasant tones with pear, lemon zest and a brief hint of some tropical fruits.
Dry-ish entry, good acidity, nice length. Apple, pineapple, citrus finish adds to the enjoyment. "Hazelnuts....easy to enjoy...good value" from in-house PO! The lees contact adds a slight creamy texture to the wine on day 1 but citrus finish takes over a day later.

Next up will try Alkoomi from Franklin River, Aust,

2005 La Pousse d'Or Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Le Cailleret

But oh how glad I am that things turned out otherwise, as this wine was perfection for aged white Burgundy. On the tawny side of straw gold; looks mature but not old. Heady aromatics and aged flavors of apple pie, pear preserves and green gauge plums. Long long finish, no hint of oxidation. Exquisite with pan-seared sable fish.

This highlights the tragedy of premox. Mature white Burgs which have dodged that bullet can be something of really special beauty.

I find it hard to understand why the Burgundians have so far failed to solve this problem with all the resources of the University of Dijon, and even Bordeaux, at their disposal. The late lamented Denis Dubourdieu claimed to understand what was happening but AFAIK white Burgs are still not reliable agers. I've also had premoxed white Loire, particularly Savennières, dry white Bordeaux and even Alsace Riesling.

[Jenise]

Comparison of 2011 and 2012 vintages of Walter Hansel Cuvee Alyce Chardonnay, Hansel Family Vineyard, Russian River Valley, CA.

I'm actually quite surprised that the wines were so similar, since the vintages were so different--'11 was so much cooler than '12. Obviously it shows in the alcohol, but I would have guessed the '12 would be fatter and richer (not neccessarily a good thing, especially this many years out).

[Jenise]

This highlights the tragedy of premox. Mature white Burgs which have dodged that bullet can be something of really special beauty.

I know. But mostly I'll never find out. I'm in "take no chances mode" and drinking up everything older than 2012. Even drank my last Sauzet, though this house is one of those that last I knew had not yet had a premoxed bottle report. It just KILLED me to pour those 07 Dauvissats on the camellias.

[David M. Bueker]

Sipping on a 2014 Pattes Loup Chablis and the precision of the vintage is clear. This is bright and focused. The acidity is a bit of a cold slap in the face. Good stuff!

This highlights the tragedy of premox. Mature white Burgs which have dodged that bullet can be something of really special beauty.

I know. But mostly I'll never find out. I'm in "take no chances mode" and drinking up everything older than 2012. Even drank my last Sauzet, though this house is one of those that last I knew had not yet had a premoxed bottle report. It just KILLED me to pour those 07 Dauvissats on the camellias.

I'm also in the "take no chances mode" nowadays. I bought my last GC or 1erC white Côte d'Or Burgs more than 10 years ago. I just don't find that their young showing, mostly with unintegrated oak, is worth the high prices. Chablis is a better bet young because most producers show restraint with wood.

I was unlucky in having had premoxed Sauzet; 2 out of 3 bottles of P-Montrachet Combettes '96 according to my CT notes .

[Jenise]

Sipping on a 2014 Pattes Loup Chablis and the precision of the vintage is clear. This is bright and focused. The acidity is a bit of a cold slap in the face. Good stuff!

This reminds me that I opened a very impressive '14 Pattes Loup 1er Cru Butteaux one night when we dined out with the Spohns about three weeks ago--I brought five home from France after Otto recommended the producer, and this bottling was the only one currently available. This was the first I've opened--I plan to wait on the others but did want an initial benchmark experience and the bottle we had made it clear I'd invested well. Bill was going to post the TNs on our evening, but apparently didn't get around to it before going in for surgery week before last. Things haven't gone particularly well there so he's had other things to occupy his time besides tasting notes, but when he's better I'll bug him. In the meantime, these comments will have to do!

[Jenise]

I am not your average Chardonnay drinker

Explain, please.

[David M. Bueker]

I am mostly sticking to Chablis, and drinking it young, in order to beat the premox bug.

I am not your average Chardonnay drinker

Explain, please.

Hardly ever drink the stuff!!

[David M. Bueker]

That means you are not a Chardonnay drinker.

Yes, until this Focus was lined up!! Today, I splurged $30 on a 2014 Cornin Macon-Chaintre. I did see a Hess Chardonnay downtown but thought there will be plenty of California Chards written up this month.
It was alongside Rombauer ($45).... .

[David M. Bueker]

Neither Hess nor Rombauer are worth your time.

I agree with David. Try Dry Creek Vineyards. Cheaper and better, though not really my favorite chards.

I agree with David. Try Dry Creek Vineyards. Cheaper and better, though not really my favorite chards.

I was not intending to buy, just mentioned which ones i saw

[Jenise]

Hardly ever drink the stuff!!

Hopefully trying a few this month will renew your interest. Me? I love chardonnay. And though I love the steely Chablis most of all, I maintain some fondness for the well-oaked California style I first fell in love with--I just detest any that are candied and/or low on acid.

[Jenise]

Over the weekend I visited two shops with proprietors who have become friends. "Friends" means they know my name and always enthusiastically bid me hello. So this is how I am: if you're a friend, I will never leave your shop without buying something. These two bottles from producers completely new to me were that kind of purchase.

Yesterday's wine, to go with sashimi at home on the patio, was a 2015 Lamblin & Fils Bourgogne Blanc from the town of Maligny-les-Chablis. Unoaked and not bland, just somewhat characterless in terms of descriptors to put in a tasting note but which was actually a plus for the food--decent value at $15.

And tonight with bangers & mash, we opened the other, a real find: 2013 Domaine Romain Collet Chablis 'Les Pargues'. Imported by a name I've never seen before, APS out of Oakland, California, it hit all the right notes for Chablis--bright yellow color, some lemon-lime at first but that dissipated soon enough into the suite of all things desirable about Chablis: that nose of flint and wet rocks, with a balanced but nervy spine of subdued fruit and a bit of chalk on the palate. I believe I paid $25 for this. It was the only bottle they had; I'm going to ask if more can be ordered.

I agree with David. Try Dry Creek Vineyards. Cheaper and better, though not really my favorite chards.

I was not intending to buy, just mentioned which ones i saw

You might want to look for Chardonnay from the Niagara Peninsula of Ontario, if you get them there. Tawes is exceptional, but there are also nice ones from Cave Spring, Chateau des Charmes, Flat Rock, etc.