Wine Focus November: Bubbles of the World!

Part of a major Champagne tasting in my own tasting room this morning and consumed before tonight's dinner with foie gras canapaes. The tasting was in honor of upcoming columns for Sylvester/New Year's Eve celebrations. I will post all of my tasting notes but can do so only after the columns are published in my newspaper.

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, Brut Rose Champagne, n.v.: Blushing peach in color, with a floral and berry nose, opening in the glass to reveal summer fruits, wild berries and notes of watermelon. Light but generous and vibrant, with a long mousse and sharp bubbles that last and last, all leading to a long, pear and mineral-rich finish. Drink now-2014. Score 91. (Re-tasted 19 Nov 2010)

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, Brut Rose, 2004, Champagne: The color of blushing pink peaches, a round and light- to medium-bodied Champagne opening to reveal strawberry, citrus and cherry fruits. Fine, concentrated bubbles and a light yeasty overtone add charm to a delightful wine. Drink now-2014. Score 91. (Re-tasted 19 Nov 2010)

Best
Rogov

I was hoping for more from the 1996 Chidaine Montlouis sur Loire Almendra Brut because I've heard lots of good things about this from folks who know what they are talking about/drinking. Alas our bottle was not very interesting. There was a fine fizz quality that was appealing but the fruit was hollow/metallic and never really grabbed me. Especially for the 'premium' extended lees-aging Montlouis price. (Approx $40 - would have been a lot more forgiving if it was a basic $15 petillant). Surely other bottles are better?

NV Cedric Bouchard / Roses de Jeanne Champagne Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules
July 2010 disgorgement. Incredibly pure and precise; full of fresh red fruits and pears and yeasty accents around a core of steely minerality and fantastic acidity, very light on its feet with a sense of tremendous clarity and focus, though it also feels very young and primary and gives the sense it's holding a lot in reserve.

[David M. Bueker]

Marc Hebrart Brut Premier Cru
A sketchy little note given that I'm not tasting that well yet - this is very frothy, one of the most intense mousses I have come across. It shows lots of apple & yeast , and is really much too young. Laura said it was very grapey on the nose, which I can buy, though didn't pick that up. 2009 disgorgement, and needs a year or so in the cellar to intergrate more.

[Jenise]

A tasty little number that showed up in my cellar from I-don't-know-where was the 2002 Marguet from Champagne I took to someone's house last Friday night to go with fresh Maine lobsters. Negociant-produced, it had a lovely yellow hue. The bubble was small and persistent, but there was very little mousse. On the nose raw bread dough, red apple, almonds and meyer lemon. On the rich side with good body, and though I don't think it's a blanc de blanc I would not be surprised to find out that it contained a higher than average amount of chardonnay. Overall a very classy presentation, and drinking very well now.

NV Gloria Ferrer Caves and Vineyards Sonoma Brut Sonoma County
Mostly Pinot Noir, with a bit of Chardonnay. Lot code on bottle: 20602810. Light to medium-bodied, fruity/lightly creamy, dry, with good acidity; rather basic aromatically, with apple pie/pear/lightly bready notes. Good+/good QPR sparkler. I like the Roederer Estate Brut more as far as Cali sparklers go, but this will do for a few dollars less.

I did drink a few bottles of bubbly this month, but they were my home made and I generally don't post about my wines. One is a pink 2008 100% Pinot Noir made from Niagara County, NY grapes ("Rosé the Riveter" see my post about naming my wine). The other is golden 2006 100% Chardonnay made from juice obtained in Niagara-On-The-Lake Ont. They were very different and I enjoyed both. I also have some 2008 Sparkling Cayuga in the riddling rack and will be bottling a batch of 2010 Cayuga in the near future.
Edit: I plan on sharing these with many of my WLDG friends in the future.