Wine Focus for May: Loire, Chenin Blanc

[David M. Bueker]

I sorely doubt that the wine was unsuited to aging. That would make it a nearly unique outlier for Huet of that era.

At dinner tonight at Brimmer & Heeltap, a local neighborhood restaurant, I ordered a bottle of 2014 ORR OLD VINES CHENIN BLANC, a Washington wine I had been hearing good things about, which turned out to be justified. For only forty-two dollars, and at 12 1/2 percent alcohol, the wine was, bright, dry, and medium long finished and was true to its varietal, and while not in Huet class it would be a respectable entry in a best-oyster-wine contest. This is the first American Chenin Blanc I've ever enjoyed, probably because I gave up on them many years ago. The back label says it comes from four decades old vines and was fermented naturally with native yeast.

My favorite! A visit to Chateau Mon Contour many years ago so impressed me that I have looked for Chenin ever since. A few personal observations. Loire Chenin can be overpriced. I'm thinking here primarily of Savennieres and Montlouis, but other too. I'm sure excellent examples can be held for years, but I don't spend in that range. For what I do spend, I look for names that don't get nearly the same press. Second, it's an absolute shame that so few Chenins come out of winey California. Why should Dry Creek have the field pretty much to itself? Third, South Africa is just the opposite with its many Chenins in a diversity of styles. My own favorite is Mulderbosch. It is harder to find around here than others but guaranteed to light up my eyes when come across.

A few personal observations. Loire Chenin can be overpriced. I'm thinking here primarily of Savennieres and Montlouis, but other too.

Do you want to put a dollar figure on that? If anything, it seems to me that Loire chenin is underpriced. The top of the class for dry wines is $40-60 (with a handful of Rougeard and Joly outliers), which is certainly very competitive compared to other regions. Most of the excellent wines are $20-40, which seems like pretty good value to me in 2016.

The reputational price ceiling they face is especially poignant given all the horrible crop lost they have faced in recent years, and from what I understand the wave of bankruptcies has only begun.

A few personal observations. Loire Chenin can be overpriced. I'm thinking here primarily of Savennieres and Montlouis, but other too.

Do you want to put a dollar figure on that? If anything, it seems to me that Loire chenin is underpriced. The top of the class for dry wines is $40-60 (with a handful of Rougeard and Joly outliers), which is certainly very competitive compared to other regions. Most of the excellent wines are $20-40, which seems like pretty good value to me in 2016.

The reputational price ceiling they face is especially poignant given all the horrible crop lost they have faced in recent years, and from what I understand the wave of bankruptcies has only begun.

I too am puzzled by Dan's "overpriced" comment. With reference to Montlouis, most of the Chidaine and Blot ranges can be had for <€20 and at nearby Vouvray Foreau's too. Where else can comparably great wines be had for less? At Jurançon perhaps? At Savennières, the prices (€30-45) of people like Closel, Morgat & Laureau look high compared to Montlouis and Vouvray but not to other regions and the Pierre-Bise Savennières can be had for <€20. Coulée de Serrant is overpriced related to the others and to its own consistency but not IMO in relation to its potential.

I hope that bankruptcies due to small harvests can be avoided. I haven't read about any important ones yet.but did read about an auction organised by the UGM to help François Chidaine, whose financial situation is described as "compliquée" http://www.vitisphere.com/actualite-725 ... idaine.htm .

...an auction organised by the UGM to help François Chidaine, whose financial situation is described as "compliquée" http://www.vitisphere.com/actualite-725 ... idaine.htm .

That was in spring 2015, before the frost of spring 2016 did massive damage (80-100% of crops in some areas of Loire and Burgundy). I don't know any details about bankruptcies, but from what I do know many folks in the Loire would not think they were enjoying the luxury of high prices (or even prices with significant margins).

I've bought Savennieres for $25 - $30 and Chidaine that I didn't enjoy as much as Dry Creek. Just my opinion.

Whether one prefers wines from one region or another is mostly a matter of personal taste, but one thing for sure is the Loire is one big white wine bargain, from Muscadet to Cheverny and beyond to its outposts Menetou-Salon, Sancerre. and Puilly-Fume. If there's any question about that, just drive a few miles to the Cote d"Or.

2014 Domaine Pichot Vouvray, Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette. Labeled as 12% abv. The wine was tasted in cask and selected by Daniel Haas for Vineyard Brands. The vineyard soil is calcareous clay, yields are voluntarily kept low, harvesting is by hand and vinification takes place in wooden barrels. The wine is described as slightly dry--I thought there was some residual sugar. The nose suggests white flowers, possibly honeydew melon. It is pleasant but not profound.

TN: 2009 Saumur "Clos d`Entre les Murs" Chateau de Parnay.

Cellared one year after staff at Devines suggested I would enjoy, knowing my affection for Chenin Blanc!!
Walled vineyard with the vines growing through various holes in the 11 walls.

$26, 15% alc (!), poor quality natural cork. was drunk over 3 nights and held up really well. Color is a medium yellow, restrained nose at first, no oak influence noted. Mineral limestone tones, white stonefruit, "not creamy" from across the table. Some floral as it airs/warms.
Initial entry thought is quite dry, crisp, very good acidity, nice backbone here and grip. Thought I served too cold but acidity and citrus tones dominate.Red BC apples.."no exotic flavors here". Did not seem to have the gras that Tim mentioned with his Saumur?
Might be of interest to cellar one more to see what developes? Various foods over the 3 nights.

Nice one, Bob. I picked up some Saumur-Champigny 2014 from Ch.de Parnay at a Foire aux Vins; good but not exceptional. I still have a couple left but I'm not sure that more age will bring a big improvement.

Delicious 2015 Muscadet from Pépière last night but that's not a story for here.

2004 Domaine de Bellivière Jasnières Calligramme - France, Loire Valley, Jasnières (5/28/2016)
Earlier in its life this wine suffered from aromas of cigar ash. I recall tackling Éric Nicolas about this and he replied "give it time". He was right about that. What we have now is a wine of quite deep gold colour with burnished aromas of antique wax polish and quince on the nose and a medium+ bodied, medium/dry and quite evolved complex palate with mature drying fruit, replay of the aromas from the nose and some backbone but not a lot of minerality or acidity. I am inclined to say that I waited too long but then I remember the cigar ash which detracted from the vibrancy and focus of youth. Not one of the best of Nicolas' usually excellent efforts but nevertheless good.

Posted from CellarTracker

TN: 2013 Serge Dagueneau Pouilly-sur-Loire La Centenaire.

100% Chasselas, SC, $22 Cdn. Good find just before I headed off to do my recent bird counts. Crisp, refreshing, quite dry, plenty of citrus tomes with hints of minerality (there is that word again). Stonefruit aromas with peach and orange blossom. Only one glass as the bottle was quickly emptied at campsite by thirsty counters. Believe the vines are over 100 years old.