July (AND August!) Wine Focus: Riesling Around the World

Good call Carl, always keen to read a TN about any wine from Finger Lakes. Rahsaan kindly posted on a Piesporter from Haart, wonder if the same producer as this one here>>>

TN: 2012 Weingut Joh. Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett, M-S-R.

Yes, I thought about specifying. Mine was the 'big name' Reinhold Haart. I don't think I've heard of Joh. Haart.

Further to my post on yesterday’s bottle of Wintrange Felsberg from Luxembourg, here are links to two attractive photos showing the site.

http://www.vinsmoselle.lu/de/mediathek?media=138

http://www.vinsmoselle.lu/fr/mediatheque?media=137

One can see that the countryside along the Luxembourg stretch of the Moselle is much gentler and less spectacular than downstream in the Mittelmosel beyond Trittenheim and the soils are different too; mainly calcareous clay in Luxembourg against slate and schist in Mittelmosel. This is reflected in softer wines in Luxembourg which mostly lack the intense minerality, fragrance, moreish acidity and elegance of the best from the German stretch.

Further to my post on yesterday’s bottle of Wintrange Felsberg from Luxembourg, here are links to two attractive photos showing the site.

http://www.vinsmoselle.lu/de/mediathek?media=138

http://www.vinsmoselle.lu/fr/mediatheque?media=137

One can see that the countryside along the Luxembourg stretch of the Moselle is much gentler and less spectacular than downstream in the Mittelmosel beyond Trittenheim and the soils are different too; mainly calcareous clay in Luxembourg against slate and schist in Mittelmosel. This is reflected in softer wines in Luxembourg which mostly lack the intense minerality, fragrance, moreish acidity and elegance of the best from the German stretch.

Interesting info on Luxembourg. I don't think I've had any of their wines (and you're not convincing me to seek them out!) but it's always interesting to taste different terroir expressions.

Rahsaan, one of the advantages of the softer Luxembourg style is that it produces well balanced reliably dry wines. I've always felt that the wines from the German Mosel/Saar/Ruwer need at least a little RS for balance but am open to being convinced that it can now produce great trocken.

I've always felt that the wines from the German Mosel/Saar/Ruwer need at least a little RS for balance but am open to being convinced that it can now produce great trocken.

This is a long discussion which we may not need to rehash here and now, but I think the short of it is that most of the German 'trocken' wines do have a bit of RS (compared to old school Alsatian wines), and that's just what seems to work. Whether or not that level of RS in the trocken wines needs to be higher in the MSR compared to other German rieslings is another issue, which may be true in general, but as is often the case it often comes down to specific wines in specific vintages.

Great discussion. Oh..I should add that the last glass of the Haart Piesporter was still drinking very nicely after 3 days.

I've always felt that the wines from the German Mosel/Saar/Ruwer need at least a little RS for balance but am open to being convinced that it can now produce great trocken.

This is a long discussion which we may not need to rehash here and now, but I think the short of it is that most of the German 'trocken' wines do have a bit of RS (compared to old school Alsatian wines), and that's just what seems to work. Whether or not that level of RS in the trocken wines needs to be higher in the MSR compared to other German rieslings is another issue, which may be true in general, but as is often the case it often comes down to specific wines in specific vintages.

Yes, the German standard for trocken is quite generous when it comes to RS, up to 9g/l opposite, I think, 7g/l of acidity. In general, I find that it works well with the acid balance giving a subjective dryness and the wines can be used when a dry wine is needed for pairing purposes, which IMO is in most cases. Some of Noël Pinguet's Vouvray sec had up to 12g/l of RS and I found that worked too. Nevertheless very little MSR trocken has really convinced me up to now, unlike those from Nahe, Rheingau and Pfalz, but I have probably had too few. Something to be remedied .

[David M. Bueker]

I keep trying MSR Trocken wines, and have yet to be truly impressed. I have some 2015 Zilliken GG coming this fall. We'll see.

I keep trying MSR Trocken wines, and have yet to be truly impressed. I have some 2015 Zilliken GG coming this fall. We'll see.

I have not tried very many, because it does seem pretty clear that it's not the best hunting ground for dry German wines. But the 2011 von Othegraven Altenberg GG I had a few weeks ago was very impressive, and I think most wine people would agree (whether or not they wanted to drink it all the time is a different story, but the quality was there). I've also liked van Volxem GGs. Never tried Zilliken.

I read elsewhere that you are soon heading home Rahsaan. Wonder how many bottles you will be smuggling in .

Wonder how many bottles you will be smuggling in .

Not enough!

I've been away for 7 months with my wife and son, so we have a lot of things and at a certain point buying even more luggage and paying even more baggage fees defeats the purpose. Will see.

2005 Hirsch Heiligenstein Riesling
Golden yet firm and crunchy and still with plenty of vibrant life. The texture is not particularly deep or rich so I do not know what the future holds. But I was not drinking the future, I was drinking this lovely bottle. Yes!

2011 von Buhl Pechstein GG Riesling
Richer and weightier than the Hirsch, but also more elegant and ethereal and sublime and... It was very very nice. Yes!

Rahsaan, nice notes. Can I ask what kind of price one pays for a GG over there in Germany?

2005 Hirsch Heiligenstein Riesling

Rahsaan, am I right in thinking that this wine comes from Kamptal in Austria?

You are lucky to have access to so much lovely Riesling at present.

2005 Hirsch Heiligenstein Riesling

Rahsaan, am I right in thinking that this wine comes from Kamptal in Austria?

You are lucky to have access to so much lovely Riesling at present.

Indeed, Hirsch is in the kamptal. And yes, I'm very aware of the great access, especially as I return to the US on Sunday!

what kind of price one pays for a GG over there in Germany?

Retail prices for the good Riesling new vintage GGs range from 30-60€. But mostly 30-45€ish and only a very very few are above 50€ (eg Wittmann or Keller).

Weissburgunder and Grauburgunder can be a bit cheaper, although often are similarly priced. Spätburgunder can be more expensive, although is also often similarly priced.

2004 Koehler Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Auslese Trocken R
Interesting wine. Not about the fruit. Mostly the flavors are some sort of stony straw hay nutty rocky (is that a flavor?) citrus oil, with maybe some golden dried fruits peaking out from time to time. But you can smell the inner sweetness and the strongest component is the massive inner mouth fragrance that reverberates and reverberates and reverberates. That trick is rare!

What a powerful but direct, elegantly structured and finesse-filled wine. Lovely.

Know the name Rahsaan but thats about it..until now!!

https://www.chambersstwines.com/Article ... r-ruprecht

2015 Lauer Ayler Kupp Kabinett Fass 8
Fresh juicy and tangy. Linear fresh and clear limes, a ripe yet recognizable kabinett that should be fun for anyone with a pulse. But my mind keeps going back to a recent 2015 Falkenstein kabinett, which was more delicate, alive and complex. I don't want to make too much out of a few bottles, so further study is needed. But for now the Falkenstein is out in front, on my own personal scorecard.

2015 Lauer Ayler Kupp Spätlese Fass 7
Juicy sweet and ripe and appropriately more succulent and rich than the kabinett, although still fine and Saar fresh. But my mind keeps going back to a recent 2015 Falkenstein spätlese, which was more delicate, alive and complex. I don't want to make too much out of a few bottles, so further study is needed. But for now the Falkenstein is out in front, on my own personal scorecard.

[Robin Garr]

Weingut Josef Spreitzer 2013 "Riesling 101" Rheingau Riesling ($17.99)

Transparent brass color. Rich, characteristic Rhine Riesling aromas and flavors, green apple with a whiff of musky melon and a hint of peach on the nose, leading into a tart but textured palate impression that carries the aromas intact over zingy, mouth-watering acidity that brings peachy fresh-fruit sweetness into balance with light 10 percent alcohol. There's a stony sense of minerality beneath it all, and tart stone-fruit flavors linger with zippy, citric acidity in an extremely long finish. U.S. importer: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.; a Terry Theise Estate Selection. (July 15, 2016)

FOOD MATCH: Riesling is one of the most versatile white wines, going well with a range of fare from mild freshwater fish to poultry and pork. It's fine with cheese and vegetable-based dishes: We enjoyed it with fettuccine with fresh broccoli in a light alfredo-style sauce.

WHEN TO DRINK: Although this bottle is intended to be drunk up soon, Riesling is a natural ager. With its sturdy metal screw cap - all but universal with German white wines nowadays - this could keep and possibly gain complexity over several years in a good wine cellar.

VALUE:
My local price is a few dollars above the average $13 retail shown on Wine-Searcher.com, but it's a good-enough wine that I'll try not to get heartburn over a price in the upper teens.

WEB LINK
Importer Michael Skurnik has a detailed fact sheet about Spreitzer's wines at this link, with further links to the producers many wines including 2014 and 2015 Riesling 101.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Look for vendors and compare prices for Josef Spreitzer "Riesling 101" on Wine-Searcher.com

Römerhof 2014 Mosel Riesling Kabinett ($12.99)

This simple but very pleasant Riesling is a light straw color in the glass, with just a hint of brassy green. Its fresh aroma and flavor begin with a distinct green apple scent on the nose, opening to something more aromatic on the palate, a hint of juicy peach at first adding ripe, juicy, tart-sweet satsuma tangerine as you swish the wine in your mouth. Crisp, cleansing acidity nicely balances light, fresh-fruit sweetness in a well-balanced wine. Easy sipping at 7.5% alcohol, a level that's startlingly low compared with most table wines but is still typical of simple Mosel Rieslings. U.S. importer: Winesellers Ltd., Niles, Ill. (June 10, 2016)

FOOD MATCH: I like slightly sweet, acidic German Rieslings with spicy fare. This went very well with Kalan Milagu, a spicy North Indian mushroom and tomato stew, made from this recipe on New Delhi's NDTV "SmartCooky" food section online.

WHEN TO DRINK: This simple Riesling is so good now that there is no reason not to drink it up soon. It's not a wine made for cellaring away. Still, given Riesling's ageworthy character and this wine's metal screwcap, it should hold well enough for a few years.

VALUE: I'm very happy with this appealing Riesling in the lower teens and would eagerly buy more at this price.

WEB LINK
Importer Winesellers Ltd. has a short fact sheet at this link.

The Römerhof website is available in German and English. Click here for an English summary of the Riesling Kabinett.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
I regret that our friends at Wine-Searcher.com currently show only German vendors. However, U.S. importer Winesellers Ltd. may have more information as supplies of the wine get to the U.S. For information, sales materials and other inquiries, I suggest you ask your local retailer, or contact Winesellers directly at www.winesellersltd.com or +1-847-647-1100 for information about vendors in your area.

[David M. Bueker]

2013 is a much better vintage than 2014. Spreitzer is also the much superior winemaking team.

[Robin Garr]

2013 is a much better vintage than 2014. Spreitzer is also the much superior winemaking team.

Yeah, that fits my impressions pretty well. I liked both wines, but the Spreitzer was really superior.

I've got to be grateful to this Wine Focus, though. It's gone a long way to recalibrate my attitude about Riesling.

[David M. Bueker]

We could hold it over another month.

[Robin Garr]

We could hold it over another month.

We ought to start the new one on Gamay Monday, but we could experiment with keeping them both pinned!