WTN: 2005 Lynmar Winery Pinot Noir Russian River Valley California.

2005 Lynmar Winery Pinot Noir Russian River Valley California. 14.4% alcohol. $12.50 a glass at Endless Vine, Franklin Lakes.

Ruby red color, medium to deep hue, complex aromas of fruit, smoke, spice and earth, rich cherry and berry taste with spice and smoke notes, medium mouth feel, light oakiness, smooth well evolved tannins, long finish, with the fruit underlying everything but the spice and smoke spiking and subsiding. I really enjoyed the 2004, and liked the 2005 vintage just as much, perhaps a shade more. Excellent EGA. [Partly, I suppose, because the Yanks beat the Tigers, and their pitching and hitting were both excellent.] 5*. [I think this wine might develop for three or four years, but it's delicious now.]

I spent an hour with the empty glass, trying a couple of other wines and watching the ball game. The EGA of this wine was stronger and more complex than the aroma of the wine, and it developed amazingly well over that hour. It grew deeper, more complex, and the mint notes in particular came up wonderfully.

I really loved this wine; I'll stop by in the morning and stock up.

Notes:

http://www.lynmarwinery.com/ The color this year is of similar depth and concentration to the '04, though with more of a garnet hue from the softer acidity. Aromas begin, uncommonly for a Lynmar Pinot, with mélange of dark fruit notes, yet with no sense of overripeness or alcoholic warmth. There is simply a "jammier" character this vintage due to the nature of the fruit. A subtle Chinese 5-spice note accents the fruit, along with a mild, complex earthiness desired in a naturally fermented Pinot. Our vineyard sources were refined from 2004; where this really shows is in this wine's texture. The entry is round and inviting, with a rich but not heavy mid-palate, velvety tannins, and a soft yet balanced acidity. There is a nice youthful “grip” to the finish that in no way detracts from this wine's early drinking appeal. In fact, we expect this vintage to drink better than ever upon release. As always, this wine will only get better during its release cycle, and we expect it to continue to evolve wonderfully for at least the next 2 years.

Dan Berger: "We’ve previously rated this as Exceptional and it’s even better now, with wild cherry and raspberry aroma, complex note of thyme, and a sweet-ish entry."

I need to try this one again. The sip test (see below) may have been unfair. I though ti was a little too rich and extracted-almost syrupy? I think they are bringing Lynmar to my local wine bar, so I need to give this another try!

I can see the syrup impression, Brian -- Berger noted that sweetish entry as well.

But I found that over time in the glass, the other aromas and flavors came up, and I wasn't left with any impression of sweetness. It's a wine that repays time in the glass, that's for sure.

And that EGA was wonderful.

Of all wines, I think Pinot Noir is least well served by the aforementioned 'sip test'.

If you make a snap judgement on Pinot because of the first whiff---you can be sure that the next whiff will reveal something different. And the next, and the next.

One characteristic of PN that I truly love is its ability to change and transform in a glass, so that the wine you have at the end of the glass may be related to, but is not the same as, what you had in the first sip.

It's endlessly fascinating. And good Barolo is the same way.

Boy, do I agree, Hoke. I drink a lot more Pinot Noir than Barolo, but your point rings true in my experience.

Sure did with the Lynmar today.

WTH is an EGA? Extra Grossness Added?

Oh. I get it. "Empty Glass Aroma".

By the time I get done unfurling my chameleon-like tongue and licking the last drops, there isn't usually much of that.

Your note makes me imagine that a good chunk of the PN comes from Saralee's Vineyard.