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WTN: Ausone, LMHB, Climens

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Jenise

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WTN: Ausone, LMHB, Climens

by Jenise » Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:15 am

Dinner out with a friend. I chose the first two wines from our cellar.

We started with the 1978 Ausone, St. Emilion which had been decanted about 30 minutes prior. Gorgeous, leathery mature Bordeaux nose with soft red fruit and milk chocolate across the palate. Though entirely worth drinking on a special occasion, it was better, perhaps, because it was 30 years old than because it was Ausone--that sense of greatness just wasn't there. From what I've read, that's probably more attributable to the weak 70's era for Ausone than it was any problems with this bottle.

The 1990 La Mission Haut Brion, Graves, that followed was a whole 'nother story. Again, decanted about 30 minutes prior, this wine was that very rare thing: perfection. Violet/cherry nose showed more merlot, robust midpalate fruit was riddled with iron-rich minerality, a little tar and licorice. Incredible flavor, balance and length. Probably not yet at peak, but certainly at a place where it could hold like this for a decade. Originally purchased in Alaska in the mid 90's, the original price tags bear witness to the fact that I fished this bottle out of a sale bin for $59.99. Original price: $77.99.

From the restaurant wine list, I wanted a white stickie for the cheese course and I chose a 2003 Climens, Barsac ($215 Canadian, 500 ML). Any wine that followed the LMHB should have been anti-climactic, should have just been a footnote to the night, but this wine was instead the wine I woke up thinking about this morning. Every time I have a Climens, I wonder if I prefer this to all other Sauternes and Barsacs. Well, after last night: yes, I do. Light yellow color. Mindblowingly exotic nose of white flowers (night blooming jasmine, geraniums, clover) and white fruit that was so beautiful it actually made me cry. I have never reacted to a wine like that before. On the palate, lemons and clover honey, quince, a tiny bit of mint and about 118 other things I'm not sharp enough to give name to. Very sweet but not heavy, oily but not viscuous, it's lighter on its feet than any other 03 I've had yet more intensely aromatic and focussed. I've had Y'Quems, I've had everything else, but nothing, NOTHING, moved me the way this did. Just magnificent. Must buy some for the cellar--can't live without it.
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James Dietz

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Re: WTN: Ausone, LMHB, Climens

by James Dietz » Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:37 am

Jenise wrote:The 1990 La Mission Haut Brion, Graves, Originally purchased in Alaska in the mid 90's, the original price tags bear witness to the fact that I fished this bottle out of a sale bin for $59.99. Original price: $77.99.



Current price, $300 and up... glad it showed well.. I had the 96 a while back and it was superb... wish I could afford more of these....

I need to try a Climens so I too can have a religous experience
Cheers, Jim
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Re: WTN: Ausone, LMHB, Climens

by Jenise » Mon Aug 27, 2007 2:30 pm

Jim, $300 and up? Oy. You know what, back when I bought that, I didn't get Bordeaux yet. But I had a mentor who helped me understand that eventually I would and that it would be a love like no other, and so on faith I bought two cases of good names from the 85, 86, 89 and 90 vintages because they were languishing all around Anchorage. Thank god.

Climens--yes, you must. I tend to prefer somewhat off-vintage Sauternes so that I could suffer such ardor for one from 03, of all vintages, is quite a surprise. Hi Times has one of the best prices in the country for 750's of it; I already tried to order some but they don't ship outside California. I'll probably have some sent to Little Dick.
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Re: WTN: Ausone, LMHB, Climens

by James Dietz » Mon Aug 27, 2007 2:35 pm

I had a pretty damned good mentor too.. 8) in fact it was she, if I remember correctly, who said I should buy that '89 Meyney!!

WineX had the Climens.. but no more.. I will have to get some from Hi-Times...
Cheers, Jim
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Ausone, LMHB, Climens

by David M. Bueker » Mon Aug 27, 2007 3:46 pm

I found a couple of good buys in Anchorage in 2005. They were closing out some 1996 Togni (a bargain I passed along to Bonnie Melielo), and I did very well on a bottle of 2000 Leoville Barton. Also got some older Pahlmeyer cheap.
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Re: WTN: Ausone, LMHB, Climens

by Dale Williams » Mon Aug 27, 2007 4:08 pm

I thought the 2002 Climens was quite good, and probably about 60% of the 2003 - get both :)
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Re: WTN: Ausone, LMHB, Climens

by Saina » Mon Aug 27, 2007 5:14 pm

Jenise, thank you for the notes! I have recently tasted several 1978s and I have loved them all. My most recent sip was of Lafite-Rothschild. Apparently this was also a bad era for them, but a blind taste (much too small sample for me, lol!) showed it to be an essence of Pauillac, very elegant - but as with some other '78's it seemed almost Burgundian in its finesse and bright, red toned fruit. I wonder if this bright, red toned profile is common in the '78's? I love this sort of profile.

I love LMHB - I'm trying to save cash for a bottle of '01. Climens rocks also.

-O-
I don't drink wine because of religious reasons ... only for other reasons.
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Re: WTN: Ausone, LMHB, Climens

by Jenise » Mon Aug 27, 2007 7:52 pm

Dale Williams wrote:I thought the 2002 Climens was quite good, and probably about 60% of the 2003 - get both :)


Great idea! I've liked a lot of the 02's--it's the kind of lesser vintage I usually prefer.
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Re: WTN: Ausone, LMHB, Climens

by Jenise » Mon Aug 27, 2007 7:56 pm

James Dietz wrote:I had a pretty damned good mentor too.. 8) in fact it was she, if I remember correctly, who said I should buy that '89 Meyney!!



Yes she did. :) I am also a promoter of the 86 which I think is equally good.

Try the Climens, though. It's just dazzling.

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