WTN: Three wines with food

Grilled top round steak:
2001 Mayr-Nusser, Lagrein Riserva Südtiroler:
Moderate aromatics of cold stone, herb, turned earth, blackberry and very light hints of red fruit; velvet in the mouth, flavors follow the nose, medium bodied, beautifully balanced, complex, character driven and slightly grippy; medium length finish. My first lagrein but not my last; a really excellent bottle of wine that keeps me coming back to the glass. 13% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $24; I’m on the hunt – thanks Steve.
Chosen on a whim. Not an especially good match although not a bad one. I think this would be terrific with marinara sauced food and will try it that way soon.

Pasta with mushroom marinara:
First I tried the lagrein with it and it worked to perfection but I ran out so I tried the 2001 Dom. Bouchard, Volnay Caillerets, Ancienne Cuvée Carnot:
Sweet oak and black fruit on the nose, not especially complex although it does have a mineral accent; pretty deep in the mouth, black fruit and stone flavors, a little too much oak sweetness, some complexity, plenty of concentration; medium length, somewhat drying finish. Too much wood for now but the concentration and depth give me some hope for the future (although the drying on the finish doesn’t inspire). 13.5% alcohol, imported by Clicquot, Inc. and about $25, on sale; I might buy it again at that price.
Chosen on a whim and not a bad match but nothing to make me want to do it again. At least the wine lost a bit of its oak to the dish and seemed to fit well on texture and weight.

Pan-fried, center cut pork chops with red wine reduction:
2002 Joël Taluau, St.-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil VV:
A cabernet franc that could not possibly come from the New World and, unfortunately, one that, even after 24 hours in the decanter, is still very closed; violets, raspberries, mineral, bell pepper and the lovely odor of a cascading stream; precise in the mouth with perfect balance, flavors that follow the nose but add a kind of crushed mint or ivy tone, excellent intensity and plenty of structure; long, very clean finish with grip. Opening this today was a mistake (it needs a minimum of 5 years in the cellar) but one I can live with; showing its promise. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Fruit of the Vine, Inc. and about $20 on release; I’d buy it again. Hold.
Very, very good with the dish. Ample cut against the reduction and plenty of complex flavors to accent the succulence of the pork. But I would venture that this wine would be even better with lamb where its complexity would be emphasized even more and its herbaceous elements would find harmony.

Best, Jim

[Jenise]

Interesting note on the lagrein. I've had that wine, or at least a bottle from that producer about two years ago, and was definitely not a fan. In fact, I'm fairly certain from reading your notes for so long that you wouldn't have liked it any better than I did. I found it all black fruit (absolutely no hint of red fruit), vinyl and pickles--much like a few tannats I've had and nothing like the superb lagrein I know from Terlano in the Alto Adige.

Since I drank whichever vintage I had younger and your bottle had six years on it, I can't help but wonder if time alone accounts for the difference.

Interesting note on the lagrein. I've had that wine, or at least a bottle from that producer about two years ago, and was definitely not a fan. In fact, I'm fairly certain from reading your notes for so long that you wouldn't have liked it any better than I did. I found it all black fruit (absolutely no hint of red fruit), vinyl and pickles--much like a few tannats I've had and nothing like the superb lagrein I know from Terlano in the Alto Adige.

Since I drank whichever vintage I had younger and your bottle had six years on it, I can't help but wonder if time alone accounts for the difference.

Maybe so.
As I say, this was my first so I have no control group.
I have heard that several producers make harder edged wines with more herbaceous notes and tannin. I'd have to assume those bottles would simply require age.
And I would have to think that some folks play with oak, etc. in their production (hence, pickle barrel possibilities?).
But this wine was very nice; nothing hard or herbaceous, nothing to suggest vinyl or pickle and lots of lovely fruit with an absolutely beautiful texture.
I wonder if the area is high enough so that variation by vintage (as well as producer) would be substantial?
Best, Jim