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WTN: French?

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Florida Jim


Wine guru




Wed Mar 22, 2006 2:27 pm


St. Pete., FL & Sonoma, CA

WTN: French?

by Florida Jim » Sun Sep 09, 2007 9:38 am

Tomato and mozzarella salad:
1996 J.P. Droin, Chablis Les Clos:
Lemon drop nose with mineral accents and some bottle bouquet; solid in the mouth, flavors follow the nose, texturally smooth but seems to fade over the evening; medium length finish. Showing no signs of oxidation but seeming to be just past its peak. 13% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and price unknown; thanks Nathan.
Very good with the dish; the flavors mesh well and the acidity of the dish does not overwhelm or detract from the wine. The wine comes across ‘cleaner’ with the food.

Pasta with summer squash in parmesan cream sauce:
2005 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Bassetti Vineyard:
Barrel sample-like on the nose, very primary but unmistakably west coast syrah; structured, deep, young and textured like satin in the mouth, good balance and plenty of concentration; long, slightly gritty finish. Not especially layered or complex at present – it shows very, very young.
Also good with the meal; the wine is lively and almost flamboyant with the food and the cream sauce shows well against the wine’s vibrancy.

Composed plate of sausage, sautéed eggplant, Tzatziki, fresh tomatoes, hummus, feta and Naan:
2005 Pilippe Faury, St. Joseph:
Purple color; expansive aromatics of plum, meat, ash and mineral (reminiscent of Côte-Rôtie); medium bodied but quite complex and texturally smooth, flavors follow the nose, excellent balance and good concentration; long, detailed finish. About as good as the appellation produces. 12.8% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $25; for all intents and purposes, Côte-Rôtie for $25 – a no brainer.
Chosen for the provincial flavors of the dish this wine was a great match
As it added complexity without subtracting the food’s flavors and was nicely balanced in weight and delivery.
(We also had one glass of the ’05 ESJ Syrah mentioned above and it had become more integrated and layered, less flamboyant and a more complete experience. I hesitate to call it more ‘French’ as I think it will always carry its west coast stamp, but it certainly is more old world in style.)

After dinner:
2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncie:
George had joined us for dinner and had not tried this. It was as it always is, out of this world wine – fresh, fragrant, lip-smacking, life-affirming juice and good with or without food. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Weygandt-Metzler and about $20; I bought lots.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars

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