2004 has shown to be a picture-perfect vintage for the more graceful red burgundies of Chambolle-Musigny and Volnay. This is so strikingly beautiful that despite its youth, I'm glad I opened it. Strawberry, cranberry and rhubarb fruit, rosewater and acacia and a touch of liquorice root. Not surprisingly the acidity is pronounced but not vocal and the texture is feather light but sinewy and pliable. 13% alc, $40
Bruno Clair has such an amazing grasp of the differences in style that make each village special. Few producers go from Gevrey-Chambertin to Chambolle-Musigny with such ease.