WTN: Loire-o-rama

Continuing to wade through months of notes . . .

Henri Pellé 2000 Menetou-Salon rouge Les Cris, $19
This is a magnificent mature Pinot with earthy cherry, cinnamon, herbal and mineral aromas, and flavors of mature Pinot cherry accented by more herbs, earth and minerals. It has a slightly grainy texture but it’s smooth overall, with nice acidity, and great balance. Outstanding match with a mix of cheeses and spreads. Importer: Michael Skurnick.

Domaine de Chatenoy 2002 Menetou-Salon rouge, $20
This has a delightful nose of cherry, cinnamon and earth. On the palate, good tart cherry is accented by earth and minerals. I prefer the nose to the palate, but overall it’s still very enjoyable. The texture is pretty smooth with some grainy tannins, the acidity is nice and bright, and there’s decent structure. Excellent match with hot alder-smoked Copper River sockeye with a maple/soy/ginger glaze. Importer: V.O.S. Selections.

Matthias Roblin 2002 Sancerre rouge, $24
Delightful nose with pleasant spices and herbs accenting the Pinot cherry fruit along with some earth. The palate follows. Overall, this has less of the cinnamon and roses I often get from Sancerre rouge and more spices and herbs. Still, it seems true to its grape and place and not spoofulated. It has good bright acidity, it’s smooth and really enjoyable. Some tannins are still present. Outstanding match with hot-smoked sockeye topped with a maple-soy-ginger glaze. Importer: Vintage ‘59 Imports

Henri Bourgeois 2002 Sancerre rouge La Porte du Caillou, $18
This has wonderful aromas of roses along with some strawberry and cinnamon that burst from the glass. The palate at first is a bit harsh, with pleasant strawberry quickly fading to bitter earth, but it gradually improves with more minerally complexity counteracting the bitterness. Excellent match with a potato/onion/red pepper/tomato omelette. The next day, it’s similar but without excessive bitterness on the palate.

Couly-Dutheil 1996 Chinon Clos de l'Echo, $17
Tobacco dominates on the nose and the palate. There are some cherry, earth, herbal, spice and mineral elements present, but they take a back seat to the tobacco. Tannins are still quite notable, suggesting another year or three for my last remaining bottle of this wine. It did go very nicely with takeout chicken kabobs over couscous. The next day, it’s still tobacco-dominated but not as much with some mellow red fruit, some floral aromas, and earth and mineral flavors. Smoother and more enjoyable.

Couly-Dutheil 2004 Chinon Les Gravieres d'Amador Abbe de Turpenay, $11.80
This is a delightful mix of cherry fruit with lots of herbs and minerals on the nose and palate. It doesn’t seem particularly diluted as previous bottles have tasted, and it has good chewy texture from bright acidity and some tannins. Excellent match with pizza.

Domaine de Montrieux 2004 Coteaux du Vendomois Vendanges Manuelles, $13
The nose is like a bowlful of fresh strawberries with some flowers and perfume thrown in and, occasionally, a touch of barnyard. On the palate, the strawberry fruit continues, this time accented by white pepper and minerals. Some spritz mars it — perhaps this is a tad flawed — but overall, it’s still enjoyable and is excellent with garlic top pesto. The next day, the spritz has mostly disappeared leaving light strawberry, pepper and minerals. I believe this is made from pineau d’aunis. Importer: Potomac Importers, a Thomas Calder Selection.

Domaine du Fontenay 2004 Cote Roannaise l’Authentique, $13
Terrific gamay. This has great aromas and flavors of raspberry, cranberry, minerals, earth and spice. It mixes bright fruit with classic Loire minerality in a very smooth and refreshing package. Importer: Thomas Calder.

Domaine de la Pepiere 2005 Vin de Pays de Marches du Bretagne Cepage Cot, $12
This is wonderful. It has great aromas and flavors of black cherry, plum, minerals and a touch of smoky earth. It’s highly structured by good acidity and some tannins, yet it’s also smooth and refreshing. Excellent match with pesto. The text day, it has tart red and black berry accented by some earth and chocolate. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Clos Roche Blanche 2004 Touraine Pif, $11
This is a bit too grapey on the nose for my tastes, but it’s saved by secondary aromas of minerals, earth, herbs and graphite mixed in. The palate follows, a bit light-bodied but overall quite nice. Very good match with pesto. The next day it’s better with the grapiness gone and the minerality much more dominant. It seems more complex, nicely acidic and structured. Very nice with a potato/onion/red pepper/tomato omelette. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Clos de Tue Boeuf 2004 Cheverny, $12
6/14/2007: Nose is on the floral, perfumy side but not too far; it’s very pleasant. On the palate, there is nice, bright, vibrant strawberry/cherry fruit with some earth and mineral accents. Simple, but a really nice quaffer and an excellent match with an assortment of cheeses, salads and spreads. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Christian Lauverjat 2005 Sancerre Moulin de Vrilleres, $16
Very pleasant grass, citrus and minerals on the nose and palate. True to type, smooth, dry and quite nice. Went very well with cheeses and appetizers. Three days later, it’s better and more expressive with lots of lemony citrus, flowers, grass, smoke and flinty minerals on the nose and palate. Refreshing, structured and very enjoyable. Importer: Elite Wine Imports.

So little money; so much pleasure. Thank God for the Loire. Bruce, I enjoyed your TNs immensely.

So little money; so much pleasure.

Thanks, Clint. You captured my feelings exactly. And thanks for your kind words.

hot alder-smoked Copper River sockeye with a maple/soy/ginger glaze.

Yummmm!!!!! Does that sound fantastic!

Maybe the biggest collection of Loire pinot noir notes in a single post, congratulations, Bruce!

I've tried the Pelle blanc which in 2002 was really good, I'll look for the rouge.

The Domaine du Fontenay Cote Roannaise wines are very good and there is an interesting story behind the wines. The winemaker is a Brit who makes wines in what he calls the traditional way. No artificial yeasts, no chapitalization, no filtering, and low yields. Also his vineyard is on pink granite and limestone which makes for an interesting (I think delicious) version of Gamay. Try the Vigne de St Sulpice from them if you see it, it might be even better than the Authentique.

Best,
Marc

Yes, my single favorite food to make and eat (and drink with Pinot Noir).

Yes, my single favorite food to make and eat (and drink with Pinot Noir).

We haven't used the ginger, but in Sockeye season we often marinate it for an hour in soy and maple syrup, and then grill it, always served with Pinot - preferably burgundy. I fully intend to add the ginger next spring when the CR Sockeye are in.

Maybe the biggest collection of Loire pinot noir notes in a single post

That's what going six months between postings will do.

I've tried the Pelle blanc which in 2002 was really good, I'll look for the rouge.

I love Pelle's reds, and Domaine de Chatenoy's, too. Pelle's Les Cris is probably the single best Loire PN I've ever had.

The Domaine du Fontenay Cote Roannaise wines are very good and there is an interesting story behind the wines. The winemaker is a Brit who makes wines in what he calls the traditional way. No artificial yeasts, no chapitalization, no filtering, and low yields. Also his vineyard is on pink granite and limestone which makes for an interesting (I think delicious) version of Gamay. Try the Vigne de St Sulpice from them if you see it, it might be even better than the Authentique.

Thanks for the great info; definitely a producer to look for again!

There's something about the mix of those three flavors (I also include some olive oil, lemon juice and garlic, though in smaller quantities) that is really magical to me and just perfect for wild salmon. What I do is combine the ingredients in a saucepan and heat it for about 20 minutes to reduce it into a thick glaze, then I spoon it on top of the salmon fillets just before grilling in the Weber on indirect heat, sprinkling soaked alder chips over the charcoal. Jesus, just writing that is like food porn -- I better stop before I start drooling!