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WTNs $20 & Under: Leitz, Bachelet, Usseglio, Pepiere, Valette, Christoffel

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Ian Fitzsimmons

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WTNs $20 & Under: Leitz, Bachelet, Usseglio, Pepiere, Valette, Christoffel

by Ian Fitzsimmons » Fri Oct 12, 2007 3:59 pm

Leitz 2002 Magdelenenkreuz Spatlese. This has come a long way from release, when it was almost unpleasantly sweet: its sugars have mellowed, the Riesling flavors developed, and the acidity is more detectable. Pale straw in color, it delivered mellow apple-pie sweetness and spice aromas, generally balanced flavors, and a smooth texture. It is still a bit sweeter than I would like, and its acids finish a bit on the screechy side, but it’s a fundamentally good wine that should continue to improve. About $16 on release.

Bachelet 2002 Bourgogne (rouge): This wine has opened up dramatically from just six months ago and is drinking very well now. Deep red in color, it delivers classic pinot fruit aroma at this level, which for me is a combination of sweet tart, band-aid, and model glue (sounds unappetizing but is delicious). The wine is vigorous and fresh, delivering a balanced mix of pure fruit sweetness and sappy mid-palate acids, framed up by firm tannins. Not complex. I picked up a case of these on auction for $11 a bottle (including shipping) and they are a joy. (My cellar is passive, and perfectly stored bottles may need a few more months).

Pierre Usseglio 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape: I tried one of these because of several recent notes on Cellar Tracker saying they are drinking well now. It was disappointing, with considerable garrigue nose and flavor, but no fruit, force or elegance, and offering no real pleasure. This did not taste like a corked or flawed bottle, but it did not give much. Either it’s still closed – despite the favorable notes - or I just don’t like CdP. I have recently opened two 2001 Gigondas (Cosme and Cayron) that, by contrast, I’ve enjoyed a great deal. About $20 on release.

Pepiere 2006 Muscadet: Pale yellow, pleasant fresh air aroma and citrus, slightly tangy flavors. Fairly light with impeccable balance. To me, this lacks the weight of the 2005, but it is a terrifically well-made wine for $9.00, and drank as well on the third day as on the first. Peppiere is a marvel.

Valette 2004 Macon: Very pale yellow. Some tangy, wet-wool aromas; plump, luxurious texture with well-balanced fruit and acid. Pleasant earthy Macon chardonnay with an extra layer of richness. At $10 a bottle - as a remainder batch – a bargain. At $20 normal retail, probably fairly priced.

JJ Christoffel 2002 Urziger Wurzgarten Kabinett: I didn’t take a note while drinking this, but was really struck by the lip-smacking intensity of its sweet-sour balance, together with its basic richness. It drinks more like a tart Pfalz spatlese than a MSR kabinett, and has the stuffing to go many years yet. Excellent with a mix of spicy Thai curries. I picked these up at something like $8 during one of the Premier Cru Christoffel blowouts, which is a genuine bargain.
Ian

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