New release tastings of Petaluma in September, plus sundry drinking of mixed interest over the last couple of months.
2007 Petaluma Riesling (Clare Valley) [screwcap, A$20]
The palest of lemon yellow colours; the nose is a mix of late harvest Riesling floral notes with almost a whiff of gewürztraminer – emphatically not the lemon/lime notes you often find in Clare Riesling. Initially very soft and cuddly on the palate; the acidity, although steely, makes a very late appearance on the palate. An interesting non-mainstream style, but I’d suggest drinking within a few years. …
2006 Petaluma Viognier (Mt Barker SA) [screwcap, 14.5%, A$35]
Mid lemon. Rich, ripe nose, less of apricot than of rich stone fruits with a mineral tinge. Little oak is evident here. The palate is nicely balanced, and the wine has a decent length finish, with enough acidity to keep it clean, and the alcohol in check – it certainly didn’t taste warm. Enjoyable wine, and outside the mainstream of Australian viognier, which is probably a good thing.
2005 Petaluma Chardonnay (Adelaide Hills) [cork, A$35]
Mid lemon. Creamy French oak on the nose, with figs & nuts, ripe white fruits. This was served very cold, and I found the palate a bit muted; there’s decent weight to the mid-palate, but the finish wasn’t all that long. Good but anonymous.
2005 Petaluma Shiraz (Mt Barker SA) [screwcap, 14.5%, A$35]
Ruby/purple. Not just co-fermented, but co-crushed (?) with a touch of viognier. It’s not hugely obvious on the palate, but does seem to give the nose a little lift. Light fresh spicy notes, seemingly minimal oak, this fresh chewy shiraz is only medium-bodied at best and seems to lack depth and focus. Drink now or keep a few years. Nice enough but overpriced.
2004 Petaluma Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot [cork, A$40]
Ruby/garnet. Lovely nose of ripe cabernet (65% of the blend), missing the hard green touch present in the 2002. Still new-world-fruity, but there’s some restraint and sophistication here. Lovely palate, with the ripe fruit coating all parts of the tongue, and the ultra-fine powdery tannins remain in subtle support. A class act.
2004 Petaluma Merlot (Coonawarra) [cork, A$40]
They persist with this – I don’t know why. Deep ruby. A sort-of varietal nose, in a new-world way, plummy, coconut, red fruits. Tidy oak. The palate is big; solidly chalky grape tannins dominate – you might think it’s a brooding monster, likely to bloom over many years’ aging. Apart from one bottle of 1990, that’s not been my (admittedly limited) experience with this label. I find the finish harsh, and one-dimensional. But if this merlot is your cup of tea, I’m sure this vintage will be a high point.
2004 San Pedro Castillo de Molina Riserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Lontue Valle) [cork, 14%, A$16]
Clear garnet. A clean youthful nose presents dark blackcurrants with a dash of aniseed / liquorice. Super fruity on the palate – the low-medium acid and soft dusty tannins are swamped by the sheer weight of ripe fruit. Finish is a bit warm, weight towards on the front palate. Decent quaffing for the next two years or so, but nothing terribly special.
2003 El Coto (Rioja) [cork, A$21]
Clear garnet with distinct bricking around the rim. A developing nose of typical cheapish rioja – earthy warm fruits and an oaky spiciness. Low in acid and powdery tannins, the palate is of fuzzy grapey fruits with a warm texture, a decent mid-palate and a finish that almost makes it to medium length. Half-way between traditional rioja and the international style, with a commercial accent. OK but not memorable. Locally, kind of pricey, too.
2002 Belgravia ‘Woodland’ Shiraz-Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon (Orange NSW) [agglomerate, 14.4%]
Mid ruby-garnet. Very intense yet developing nose of liqueur cherry, kirsh, blackberry and soy, but with a cool-climate overtone. Not overblown, nor green. Medium bodied, with distinctive oak and lush ripe blueberry flavours, all seasoned with a dash of chocolate. Moderate intensity, with dusty tannins and enough acid to keep it together. Solid front and mid palate only tail off a little toward the back of the tongue. A very good blend, showing the three grapes of nicely in what must have been a pretty warm year for a cool climate region. Slightly warm finish, but really drinking well now.
2004 Santa Carolina Barrica Selection Petit Verdot (Valle de Rapel DO) [cork, 14.5%, A$18]
Clear ruby. Clean, youthful on the nose. Aromas of macerated red fruits with a faintly undertone. Hmmm. The palate eventually opens up with violets & plums, though never quite losing the stewed aspect, and eventually softens out with exposure to air. Soft dusty tannins, medium acidity and weight, and a decent length finish. Feels like it’s got a few years aging in it, although fruit-fiends had better drink up now. Good value.
2000 Chateau Fourcas Hosten (Listrac-Medoc) [cork, 12.5%, A$33]
Clear garnet, with brickish fading at the rim. Some development evident on the somewhat pongy nose, with wet leaves & compost, sweat and barnyard aromas to the fore. The wine has a muted feel on the palate, with earthy flavours predominating. Fruit is headed the cigar-box way, but it’s not a very expensive cigar box. Dry palate, with soft powdery tannins, nearly medium-bodied weight, but a short finish reveals the pedigree. Warm and ripe, however, and there is a decent balance of structure along the palate. Will doubtless go a few more years, but I can’t see it getting much better.
2000 Chateau Liversan (Haut-Medoc) [cork, 13%, $28]
Medium garnet in colour, with a fading rim. A developing nose of intense cabernet fruit, with a dash of rosewood/cigar. Ripe red/black fruits on palate, with smokiness (but minimal oak character), but a bit dilute. Soft dusty tannins lift the show to medium-bodied status, but the finish is very short, and there’s not much back-palate to speak of. Acceptable but hardly memorable.
2004 Saltram Mamre Brook Cabernet Suavignon (Barossa) [cork, 14%, $17]
Impenetrable purple. Youthful nose of currants, coffee, malt and dark chocolate with subtle oak in the background. Very soft acidity, medium powdery tannins, but overall an exuberance of warm dark ripe fruits is predominant. Wearing a warm-climate heart on its sleeve almost to the extent that it sags a bit; there’s so much ripe fruit here that the structure seems hard-pressed to keep up. I think a few years age might help, but beyond that ….
2003 Guigal Cotes du Rhone [cork, 13%, $18]
A clear garnet which extends right to the rim. A developing nose with smoky cherries, strawberries and a dash of liquorice. A palate of dusty ripe fruit, lightly earthy, and with understated structure – minimal tannins and body, with only some acidity to keep freshness – perhaps reflects the vintage, but the shortness of the finish is perhaps the biggest letdown. At the price, it’s nevertheless a reasonable alternative to a lot of local offerings – and a bit more food-friendly than many of them…
1999 Balnaves Cabernet Merlot (Coonawarra) [cork, 13.5%]
Mid garnet colour, with an aged nose of dust and woodspice. The palate offers some developed cabernet fruit, with distinct US oak underpinngin the structure. The tannins have softened out, the acid is soft too; all in all it’s a nicely aged wine ready to drink now, let down a bit by the short finish and a soft back-palate. Pleasant enough, but a bit forgettable.
2000 Jaboulet ‘Les Sauvageres’ (St Peray) [cork, 13%]
A rather alarming golden urine colour, and the nose does nothing to dispel those fears! Whiffs of nuts and honeysuckle, perhaps an undercurrant of stewed apples, with a distinct oxidative aura. The palate has touches of nougat and hazelnuts, but mostly is rather greasy and sweaty, with soft acid, a rather warm mouthfeel, and although the weight of the wine covers back to mid-palate quite well, there’s an overall staleness that suggests this wine is quite past its best. My first St Peray, so I’m no judge, but frankly Tahbilk’s version of Marsanne is in a different class altogether.
cheers,
Graeme