WTN: What's up at Haut-Bailly? + Slovenian whites + a Bojo

I love Haut-Bailly. It's unspoofulated and earthy and really speaks the language of Graves rather than internationality. So I bought Château Haut-Bailly 2004 (12,5%, 41,60€) to try over a few days. The nose was all about toasted new oak tones. The oaky and inky tones almost manage to drown the attractive mix of red and black fruits underneath. What is going on here? This is not the Haut-Bailly I thought I knew and loved. Is there some radical change there (apart from using 2/3 new oak, as opposed to c.50% previously)? Could the increase in oak really change the character of the wine so drastically or am I just being my usual oakophobe self?

Gladly the palate is just lovely: savoury, slightly green/herbal, tannic, concentrated yet refreshing, earthy and very long. What a strange experience.

Drouhin Moulin-à-Vent 2005 (13%, 12,98€) is still rather primary: slightly earthy, sweetly fruity nose. The palate is also abundantly fruity but with serious tannins showing at the moment as well as refreshing acidity. A great food wine. Very nice, but ideally should rest a few more years.

I tasted two cheapies from Slovenia's Ljutomer-Ormož. Slovenia seems to be making some stunningly pure and food friendly stuff that is also technically well made. I guess it's time for me to fill my cellar with them before these pure gems become so well known that prices rise.

Miro Vino Kog3 2006 (11,5%; 9,86€) A blend of Welschriesling, Chardonnay & Sauvignon Blanc under screwcap. The nose is full of white flowers, white fruit and minerals. The palate is pleasantly fruity, but also refreshing, bright, unoaked, acidic and surprisingly long and mineral. A very charming, cheap wine.

Miro Vino Šipon 2006 (12%; 10,74€; screwed) Šipon is the local name for Furmint. Clear as water. The nose is rather red toned and elegantly spicy - it has much of such bass notes, but also higher tones of minerals and citrus. The palate is highly acidic, with good weight despite being a fresh and refreshing wine. The red tones of the nose follow on the palate. The aftertaste is spicy and long. A very interesting and a very good wine - especially for this price.

-Otto-

Re Haut-Bailly

Otto,

Are you saying here that this 2004 is showing a lot more oak than previous vintages at a similar stage? If Haut-Bailly is becoming more heavy handed, it is bad news.

A lot of Bordeaux tastes very oaky in its youth but comes into good balance later on, if one can accept a residual background patina.

Are you saying here that this 2004 is showing a lot more oak than previous vintages at a similar stage? If Haut-Bailly is becoming more heavy handed, it is bad news.

At least compared to the '99 and '01-03 ('00 I haven't tried), yes, that is what I meant.

A lot of Bordeaux tastes very oaky in its youth but comes into good balance later on, if one can accept a residual background patina.

Indeed, I don't hold oakiness as a flaw in young Bx - except when little else is noticable.

-O-