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WTNs: 94 Brief Champagne Notes

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Cam Wheeler

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WTNs: 94 Brief Champagne Notes

by Cam Wheeler » Thu Oct 18, 2007 12:46 am

Annual CIVC tasting in Sydney. Standouts were;

Bollinger La Grande Annee 1999
Billecart-Salmon Nicholas Francois-Billecart 1998
Boizel Joyau de France 1991
Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 1995
Henriot Cuvee Enchanteleurs 1995
Mumm de Cramant NV
Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru Rose 1996
Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV
Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque Blanc 1998

and then a couple of levels above those was the Salon 1996.

Ayala


Ayala Brut Majeur NV
Tight nose, some peaches. Palate has some richness to it. Simple but provides some pleasure.
86/100

Ayala Brut Nature Rose NV
Rose petals and strawberries on the nose. Palate lacks flow and balance.
82/100

Ayala Zero Dosage NV
Nose of lemon and peaches. Palate is fresh, crisp and clean but without depth.
86/100


Bollinger


Bollinger Special Cuvee NV
Lemon pastry aromas. The palate is clean with medium body and richness.
87/100

Bollinger La Grande Annee 1999
Floral notes and apple on the nose. Palate shows excellent depth and length. Open and ready for drinking now. Very impressive.
91/100

Bollinger La Grande Annee Rose 1999
A lovely, delicate nose - smells like a field of roses. Palate is clean, with good acid and length. One of the top Rose Champagnes tasted on the day.
89/100



Billecart-Salmon


Billecart-Salmon Brut NV
Apple, brioche and toast/oak aromas. Rich mouthfeel. Pretty good.
87/100

Billecart-Salmon Nicholas Francois-Billecart 1998
An appealing layered nose of citrus, floral notes and toast. Good structure and balance between acid and fruit on the palate. Lots to like about this.
90/100

Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose NV
Lemon and florals. Clean palate with some persistence. A little bit on the boring side of things though.
86/100



Champagne Boizel


Boizel Joyau de France 1991
Lots happening on the nose - toast, citrus, honey and more. Palate has good length and richness. Good complexity as well. At its peak and very interesting.
90/100

Boizel Brut Blanc de Blancs NV
Strong bready aromas with a touch of yeast/cheese. Palate is much more restrained and elegant. A little bit short but otherwise nice.
86/100



Bruno Paillard


Bruno Paillard Premiere Cuvee NV
Some kiwi fruit on the otherwise closed nose. Sweet and simple on the palate.
84/100

Bruno Paillard Brut Assemblage 1996
Funky, boot polish and violets. No structure to the palate. Very poor, hopefully an off bottle.
76/100

Bruno Paillard Rose Premiere Cuvee NV
Yeasty nose with some lemon and earth. Palate is disjointed with some sourness. Didn't enjoy.
81/100



Charles Heidsieck


Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve NV
Bread and apples. Rich mouthfeel with good flavour persistence. Nice.
87/100

Charles Heidsieck Vintage Rose 1999
Strawberries and cherry. The palate doesn't show cohesion or anything of interest.
84/100

Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 1995
Very complex nose. Rounded, rich mouthfeel but the acid brings it into line. Great length and a very classy wine.
91/100




Piper Heidsieck


Piper Heidsieck Cuvee Brut NV
Fresh and clean on the nose. Medium length palate, but lacks depth/interest.
85/100

Piper Heidsieck Brut Vintage 2000
Citrus driven nose. Decent balance, but again lacking in depth on the palate.
86/100

Piper Heidsieck Rose Sauvage NV
Lovely pink colour. Interesting cherry and earth aromas on the nose. Palate is a let down, it is way too sweet for my taste.
83/100



Dampierre


Dampierre Audion de Dampierre Cuvee de Ambassadeurs NV
Lemon and biscuit aromas. Palate has a lot of pleasant fruit sweetness. Nice without standing out in any way.
86/100

Dampierre Audion de Dampierre Grand Vintage 1998
A bold, forward, complex nose. Palate is powerful but it still retains balance. Worth another look.
89/100



Delamotte


Delamotte Brut NV
Clean, fresh, fruit driven. Refreshing palate.
86/100

Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 1999
Cookie dough nose. Good focus on the palate.
87/100

Delamotte Blanc de Blancs NV
Refined nose with some vanilla and slate. Palate is quite enjoyable, with good length, balance and flavour.
88/100



Salon


Salon 1996
Immediately obvious on the nose and palate that this is a couple of steps up. Layered, beguiling aromas of flowers, slate, citrus, spice and toast. The palate is without doubt, superb. The depth and complexity of flavour is almost overwhelming to the senses but the focus is equal to the task with some incredible structural acidity. Impeccable length. An exciting, magnificent wine now and I am certain it is destined to obtain legendary status in years to come.
97/100



Devaux


Devaux Grand Reserve NV
Perfumed, appealing nose. Elegant body, medium length.
87/100

Devaux Cuvee D Millesime 1996
Bread, honey and apples on the nose. Good fruit richness and good length.
89/100

Devaux Cuvee D NV
Toast and citrus. Good depth of flavour but with the freshness to keep the wine enjoyable. Length was very good.
89/100



Drappier


Drappier Cuvee Brut NV
Very lovely nose, lemon and apple pie. The palate is a big let down afterward, very light and apply. Lacking structure.
86/100

Drappier Millesime Exception 2000
Apples, yeast and bread. Bold palate, richly flavoured. Not very complex though.
87/100




Lallier


Lallier Grande Reserve Grand Cru NV
Earth and red berries. Brightly flavoured palate. Medium length. Very nice.
88/100



Duval-Leroy


Duval-Leroy Premier Cru NV
Citrus peel nose. Both sweet and sour elements fighting on the palate, rather off-putting.
82/100

Duval-Leroy Vintage 1996
Apple and bananas on the nose. The palate is soft and lacking depth/acid. Not up to standard considering the vintage.
85/100

Duval-Leroy Paris NV
Pine nuts, spice and earth with some cherry as well. Good balance to the palate. Enjoyable.
87/100



Franck Bonville


Franck Bonville Brut Selection NV
Shy nose with some lemon and pastry. Very dry palate, but length is good.
87/100

Franck Bonville Brut Millesime 2002
Floral and lots of toast. Good length, very dry. Toast is a bit too over the top for my taste though.
85/100

Franck Bonville Brut Prestige NV
Quiet nose, a little bit nutty. Palate is medium length and has only a touch of sweetness.
86/100



Bruno Michel


Bruno Michel Cuvee de Terre NV
Oyster shells and toast. Rounded mouthfeel. Good flavour profile.
86/100



Laherte Freres


Laherte Freres 2000
Big nose - citrus, toast and yeast. Flavour is good on the palate, but it doesn't do enough to stand out.
86/100



Jacques Lassaigne


Jacques Lassaigne Cuvee Le Cotet NV
100% 2002 fruit. Clean nose, very floral and appealing. Palate is also fresh and clean. Good length, medium depth. Very good.
89/100



Tarlant


Tarlant Brut Zero NV
Lemon meringue nose. Puckeringly dry palate, almost a bit like lemon juice.
85/100

Tarlant Brut Tradition NV
Honey, nuts and lemon. Palate is balanced but a bit short and uninteresting.
85/100

Tarlant Brut Prestige 1997
Nose is a bit strange with some briary aromas as well as vanilla and grilled nuts. Good full length and balance to the palate. Interesting.
87/100

Tarlant Cuvee Louis Tatlant Brut NV
Dusty and earthy nose with some citrus peel. Full flavoured palate, rich fruit but finishes with crisp acid.
87/100



Gardet


Gardet Brut Special NV
Floral with pineapple and other tropical fruits. Palate is medium weighted and had good balance but not much depth.
86/100

Gardet Cuvee 1999
More floral notes here with some red berries and slate. Crisp palate, great acid across the length.
88/100


Gardet Cuvee Saint Flavy NV
Sea spray, floral and citrus aromas. Good focused palate, medium length and enjoyable.
88/100




Gatinois


Gatinois Grand Cru Ay NV
Bread, apply and toasty. Palate is dry and clean but not exciting.
86/100

Gatinois Grand Cru Ay Millesime 1999
Toast, mushroom and earth. Medium body, nice balance.
87/100



Gosset


Gosset Grande Reserve NV
Apple, honey and flowers. Acid stands out on the palate.
85/100

Gosset Grande Millesime 1999
Peaches, pears and toast. Good intensity on the palate, long length, maybe lacking a little bit of focus to be great though.
89/100


Gosset Brut Excellence NV
Soft floral nose. Palate is boring and mediocre.
84/100




Henriot


Henriot Brut Souverain NV
Toast, lemon, brioche and honey. Lacking depth and persistence on the palate.
85/100

Henriot Cuvee Enchanteleurs 1995
Bread, honey and apples. Palate has impressive acidity and flavour that lingers in the mouth.
90/100

Henriot Blanc de Blancs Souverain NV
Strong apples on the nose. A bit too acidic and lean in flavour.
84/100



Jacquesson


Jacquesson Cuvee #731 NV
From 2003 vintage fruit. I really enjoyed the nose on this, lots of spice and honey. The palate is rich, round and full. I don't think it will age, but I really enjoyed it now.
89/100

Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru Rose 1996
Strawberry, cherry and lightly floral. Bold spice and flavour to the long palate. Impressive, especially as I'm not normally a fan of Rose Champagne.
90/100



Louis Roederer


Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV
Cherry, strawberry and roses. Pleasing mouthfeel without great depth, but there is some complexity and texture there. Good.
88/100

Louis Roederer Brut Vintage 2000
Cookie dough and citrus peel on the nose. Lots of spice to the palate. Fine length.
88/100

Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 2000
Dirty nose, wet earth and barnyard. Richly fruited palate, much cleaner, but can't make up for the nose.
80/100



Moet et Chandon


Moet et Chandon Brut Imperial NV
Light citrus and banana nose. Palate is very light and inoffensive with a slightly refreshing quality to it.
84/100

Moet et Chandon Grand Vintage 2000
Lemon and a bit of a soapy aroma. The palate is slightly toasty but there is so little to it, the flavour is gone almost as soon as you've sensed it.
82/100

Moet et Chandon Nectar Imperial NV
Toast and citrus aromas. Fruit driven flavour profile. There is a lingering sweetness on the finish. Provides some enjoyment if you don't think about it too much.
85/100


Ruinart


Ruinart R de Ruinart NV
Nose is very closed, a little bit of citrus. Medium bodied with some good flavour intensity. Medium length.
87/100

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV
Vanilla, brioche, cream and peaches. Palate is restrained and elegant. Well balanced. I enjoyed this a fair bit more than the last time I tried it earlier this year.
90/100

Ruinart Rose NV
Strawberries and raspberries with a hint of floral character. A little bit of spice but mostly fresh fruit character on the palate. Tried from two different bottles with the same impression. Not bad, but didn't stand out.
86/100



Veuve Clicquot


Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label NV
Clean tropical fruit aromas. Sweet palate, lacks any interest for me.
83/100

Veuve Clicquot Rose 2002
The nose is shy and soft. Palate is pretty lackluster as well. Nothing really to comment on.
83/100

Veuve Clicquot Vintage Rich 1999
Apple and honey aromas. A rich presence in the mouth, but very very one dimensional.
84/100



Mumm


Mumm Cordon Rouge NV
Floral and citrusy. Clean and refreshing palate. Balance is fine.
85/100

Mumm Millesime 1998
Mute nose, very hard to get any aromas even with quite a bit of swirling. Soft palate with a hole in the middle. Not very good,
82/100

Mumm de Cramant NV
Expressive floral nose with citrus and even some plum aromas as well. The intensity, structure and balance on the palate lifts this a level. Creamy mouthfeel and texture. Excellent.
91/100



Perrier Jouet


Perrier Jouet Grand Brut NV
Flowers and berries. Medium intensity. Good without being very exciting or memorable.
86/100

Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque Blanc 1998
Very classy on the nose, full of florals, toast and citrus. Palate is long, clean and with very good structure.
91/100


Nicolas Feuillatte


Nicolas Feuillatte Particuliere Brut NV
Marmalade and orange peel. Softly bodied and easy to drink, but not very exciting.
85/100

Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs 1999
Peachy nose. Palate has too much lemony acid for my liking.
83/100

Nicolas Feuillatte Cuvee Palmes D'or Vintage 1997
Appealing nose - toast, slate, orange and nutty aromas. Very good fruit intensity on the palate with a strong acid core maintaining focus. Lingering sweetness. Very good, but needs a bit more depth to be a 90+ wine.
89/100

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Rose NV
Musk sticks dominate the nose. There is a bit of sweetness to the palate but it does not seem to be out of place. Very simple though.
85/100




Pannier


Pannier Brut NV
Apples and peaches. Clean palate, finishes crisp with good length.
86/100

Pannier Brut Vintage 2000
Bready and biscuity nose. Nicely weighted fruit on the palate, but needs more depth/dimension.
86/100

Pannier Blanc de Blancs 1998
Peaches and cream. Palate is fresh but there is a touch of acid out of place on the finish.
85/100


Philipponnat


Philipponnat Brut Royal Reserve NV
Sea spray and oyster shells. Palate is clean but a bit short and quite boring.
85/100

Philipponnat Reserve Millesime 1999
Apples and pears. Crisp palate, but again lacking length and depth.
85/100

Philipponnat Brut Reserve Rose NV
Strawberry and earth. Bit of sweetness to the palate. Disappointing intensity and depth. Didn't really like this.
83/100


Pol Roger


Pol Roger Brut NV
Bursting nose of apples and citrus. Palate is vibrant and balanced.
87/100

Pol Roger Brut Vintage 1998
Citrus and some smoke. Good flavour persistence and medium depth. Open and enjoyable now.
89/100

Pol Roger Brut Blanc de Blancs Vintage 1998
Spice and bread on the nose. Palate is simple and shows some bitterness on the finish which lets it down.
85/100



Taittinger


Taittinger Brut Reserve NV
Bready, citrusy aromas. Clean flavours but with little depth.
85/100

Taittinger Millesime 2000
Bread, toast and citrus fruit. Medium bodied with decent length.
86/100

Taittinger Prelude Grand Crus NV
Bready yeast, citrus, minerally with some floral notes. Good body, mouthfeel and length. Well balanced. Could improve with a couple of years in bottle.
88/100



Tsarine


Tsarine Premier Cru NV
Peach and some sweaty characters on the nose. Palate is cleaner but not much of interest.
82/100

Tsarine Vintage 1999
Grapefruit and guava aromas. Lick of sweetness to the palate. Seems a bit flat and lacking character.
84/100

Tsarine Rose 1999
Strawberry and a bit of earthy funk. Palate lacks length and depth. Nothing to interest me into trying it again.
82/100
Last edited by Cam Wheeler on Tue Oct 23, 2007 6:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: WTNs: 94 Brief Champagne Notes

by David Creighton » Thu Oct 18, 2007 3:21 pm

wow, great notes. wish i had the muselets from this tasting - there are obviously some i don't have. with this love of champagne, i assume you have visited there? ps - i normally like both gatinois and tsarine(chenoine) better than you apparently did - but no matter.
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Bill Hooper

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Re: WTNs: 94 Brief Champagne Notes

by Bill Hooper » Thu Oct 18, 2007 11:05 pm

Wow. Do you even like Champagne? Billecart Rose, Paillard, Tarlant, Philipponnat NV's are all boring and uninteresting? I agree that VC sucks. Feuillatte is made by freaking robots (no really), yet you seem to dig the Palmes D'or. Moet got unusually high scores for the garbage that they are.
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Cam Wheeler

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Re: WTNs: 94 Brief Champagne Notes

by Cam Wheeler » Thu Oct 18, 2007 11:14 pm

Bill Hooper wrote:Wow. Do you even like Champagne? Billecart Rose, Paillard, Tarlant, Philipponnat NV's are all boring and uninteresting? I agree that VC sucks. Feuillatte is made by freaking robots (no really), yet you seem to dig the Palmes D'or. Moet got unusually high scores for the garbage that they are.


No, I took a day off work and went to a tasting of 90+ Champagnes, then took a number of hours transcribing my notes out of my notebook because I hate the stuff! If my opinions differ from yours then so be it, I just wrote about my personal experience of what I tasted on the day.
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Cam Wheeler

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Re: WTNs: 94 Brief Champagne Notes

by Cam Wheeler » Thu Oct 18, 2007 11:19 pm

creightond wrote:wow, great notes. wish i had the muselets from this tasting - there are obviously some i don't have. with this love of champagne, i assume you have visited there? ps - i normally like both gatinois and tsarine(chenoine) better than you apparently did - but no matter.


Thanks for the feedback. Sadly I have not been to Champagne yet (for a number of personal reasons over the past couple of years that have prevented it), but I am determined to make it one day in the not too distant future.
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Re: WTNs: 94 Brief Champagne Notes

by ClarkDGigHbr » Fri Oct 19, 2007 1:26 am

I am so jealous. :!: Congratuations on being able to taste all of these, and a big thank you for taking the time to share these notes.

-- Clark
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Re: WTNs: 94 Brief Champagne Notes

by David Creighton » Fri Oct 19, 2007 9:58 am

i've been a few times. it is a lovely place little visited by tourists. tom stevenson recommended stoping at chateau thiery to visit pannier - their caves are cut into rock not the chalk of the others. plus, while you are there you can visit the american cemetary. its also only an hour from degaulle airport and a nice place to spend the first night. i agree with tom's suggestion, having done it.

i like to make the drive from mareuil to bouzy and ambonnay and then up to verzy, and then across the top of the mountain de rheims. on the first leg you pass a very photogenic mountain of chalk. the little museum on the main road at verzenay is nice. i asked a local what villages were the cutest and was told hautvillier - right they were - and you get dom p's grave in the church as well. no one around - not the tourist mecca you might think. since a decent nv brut costs $12e, you can drink the stuff for breakfast, lunch and dinner!
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Re: WTNs: 94 Brief Champagne Notes

by Bill Hooper » Fri Oct 19, 2007 1:38 pm

Cam Wheeler wrote:
Bill Hooper wrote:Wow. Do you even like Champagne? Billecart Rose, Paillard, Tarlant, Philipponnat NV's are all boring and uninteresting? I agree that VC sucks. Feuillatte is made by freaking robots (no really), yet you seem to dig the Palmes D'or. Moet got unusually high scores for the garbage that they are.


No, I took a day off work and went to a tasting of 90+ Champagnes, then took a number of hours transcribing my notes out of my notebook because I hate the stuff! If my opinions differ from yours then so be it, I just wrote about my personal experience of what I tasted on the day.


Well I AM an opinionated Bastard! :D There is no question of that! And Champagne is one of the few wines I'll defend to my death. I'm just surprised that some of what I know to be some of the most beautiful and complex wines in Champagne fared so poorly. Did they taste shocked? The notes you give sound as if the wines might have been a little shut-down. But really, thanks for your impressions.
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Re: WTNs: 94 Brief Champagne Notes

by Michael Pronay » Sun Oct 21, 2007 8:27 am

Cam Wheeler wrote:Mumm de Cremant NV

I don't want to nitpick, but the name of this wine is "Mumm de Cramant".
Ceterum censeo corticem esse delendam
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Re: WTNs: 94 Brief Champagne Notes

by Cam Wheeler » Tue Oct 23, 2007 6:31 am

Michael Pronay wrote:
Cam Wheeler wrote:Mumm de Cremant NV

I don't want to nitpick, but the name of this wine is "Mumm de Cramant".


Michael, no problem, if there is only one mistake (I'm sure there is not, please do not look ;)), then I didn't do too badly! I'll fix it up thanks.

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