WTN: Tastings continue with superb Nigl, impressive Leeuwin, Moss Wood, etc.

I have already extracted my Shiraz notes from this tasting for Wine Focus and here are my notes of the others which I tried. There were very many further interesting wines on show but after the Italian tasting in the morning together with several Shiraz, I was close to saturation. Furthermore, milling crowds, which called for elbow work to get access to tables and spittoons, did not encourage lingering.



Leeuwin Estate – Margaret River- Australia- presented by Denis and Tricia Horgan.

A very impressive range. (My WTN on the elegant “Art Series” Shiraz (16.5/20) is in Wine Focus.)

“Siblings” Sauvignon/Semillon 2005 (EUR 15,06)
Nice white and green fruit aromas, gooseberry, on a crisp and fresh palate; 14.5/20 but seems dear for what it is. Denis Horgan claims that Semillon does not do well enough in Margaret River for an unblended cuvée.

“Art Series” Sauvignon blanc 2005 (EUR 25,95) – contains 5% Semillon.
A very different proposition. The aromas are much more complex and integrated with gooseberry in the background and the palate is ample with good “gras” (literally=fat) , mouth-filling and aromatic whilst retaining freshness and crispness; 16.5/20+.

“Prelude Vineyards” Chardonnay 2005 (EUR 19,84)
Meaty tobacco tinged aromas and burnished white fruit on the ample and slightly sweet palate; 15/20.

“Art Series” Chardonnay 2003 (EUR 59,84)
Several notches up from the previous (also in price!). The nose was well developed and complex with white and tropical fruit woven with spice. The palate was luscious, mouth-filling and long reflecting the same complex aromatics together with reasonable freshness and mineral hints; fine oak was present but well integrated except for a caramel note on the after-taste. I prefer my Chardonnay fresher and more mineral but this is excellent in a luscious vein and perhaps my favourite outside Burgundy; 16.5/20+.

“Art Series” Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (EUR 37,09) – contains 9% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot
Nice red fruit aromas, red currant, and deep, complex and pure fruit and good structure and length on the palate; 16.5/20.

“Art Series” Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (EUR 37,09) – contains 11% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot
I liked this less. The nose was more developed and perfumed with malt notes. The palate was softer and less structured than 2001, the aromatics attractive but again marred, for me, by a touch of malt; 15/20.

“Prelude Vineyards” Cabernet/Merlot 2000 (EUR 19,97)
Tricia Horgan thought I would like this better and she was right. Very good pure fruit with only a touch of jam and liqueur and good grip; 16/20.



Nigl – Kremstal- Austria -presented by Christine Nigl.

An outstanding range. I commented to Ms Nigl that I often detected apple and pear notes on both Grüner Veltliner (“GV”) and Riesling and she said that this was due to their frequently sharing the same terroirs. I persist in finding GV less elegant and classy as well as less aromatic than Riesling although I love its generously fruity vigour. Overall the 2006s seemed to have something extra.

“Kremser Freiheit” GV 2006 (EUR 11,80)
Aromatic and amply fruit with apple notes; 15.5/20.

“Kremser Terassen” GV 2006 (EUR 22,39)
Similar to the previous but richer, more ample and more aromatic with a hint of sweetness; 16/20.

“Privat” GV 2006 (EUR 28,98)
A lot of matter and power with baked apple hints and already quite expressive; one sensed an unexpressed reserve of nuance and complexity. Too young; 16.5/20+.

“Privat” GV 2005 (EUR 23,60)
More developed than the previous with attractively generous round fruit, also apply. Less potential, I guess; 16.5/20.

“Dornleiten” Riesling 2006 (EUR 16,88)
Spicy expressive aromatics with a fresh, well focused and spicy palate; 16/20.

“Dornleiten” Riesling 2005 (EUR 14,70)
Strangely less expressive and more subdued than the previous but showing good freshness. Is it going through a dumb phase? 14.5/20.

“Seftenberger Piri” Riesling 2006 (EUR 26,32)
This shows a lovely complex and well developed nose and an expansively aromatic, complexly fruity, well focused and elegant palate; 17/20 with + potential.

“Privat” Riesling 2006 (EUR 39,87)
This comes from the same site as the previous but was harvested well into November some two weeks later. It achieves greater brightness at the same time as greater concentration and depth with apple hints a little clearer. A superb wine; 17.5/20 with ++ potential.

“Eiswein” GV 2006 (EUR 24,14/half bottle)
I was a little disappointed here. Subdued aromatics on a deep rich body but needs time for developing its aromas and complexity. Unfinished business; 15/20 with + potential.

Alas, the Trockenbeerenauslese 2006 was finished.




Moss Wood – Margaret River

Semillon 2004 (EUR 20,51)
White and tropical fruit, wax and honey on the nose veering to more citrus but still waxy on the palate with nice fresh acidity and some “gras”; this seems to refute the idea that Semillon does not do well in Margaret River; 15.5/20+.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (EUR 55,18) - with 3% Cabernet franc and 4% Petit Verdot
At last I understand what all the fuss is about (a bottle of 1995 at home was dark and dry). N: Complex deep red and dark fruit with a mint hint. P: Very deep and quite chocolaty but with pure yet complex fruit showing good brightness and well as dark hues; good structure and excellent length. This is clearly more concentrated and profound than Leeuwin Cabernet; 17.5/20.




Seresin Estate – Marlborough- New Zealand – represented by Clive Dougall.

I only looked at the Pinot Noir (“PN”) here. If my memory is not deceiving me, the fruit seemed brighter and purer in the days of Brian Bicknell. QPR does not seem very good in face of the pinot competition from, say, la Côte Chalonnaise (1er crus from good growers <EUR 20).

PN 2002 (EUR 32,07)
Quite complex aromatically with a hint of stalkiness and dark liqueur tinged fruit on the palate; 15/20.

PN2003 (EUR 32,07)
Some orange peel coming into the aromatics; nice dark fruit; 15/20.

“Leah” PN 2005 (EUR 30,86)
Seems more subtle and deeper than the previous showing brighter fruit with cherry notes; 15.5/20.





Other whites

Burge Family “Olive Hill Vineyard” Barossa Valley Semillon 2006 (EUR 23,89)
Subdued nose but with a nicely fresh palate showing “gras” and citrus, grapefruit, notes; Already attractive but with, I guess, potential for development; 15.5/20 ++

Mount Difficulty Riesling “Long Gully” 2001 Otago – NZ (EUR 16,88)
White fruit and petrol on the nose with good complexity and mouth-fill and a touch of residual sugar balanced by fair acidity. Kabinett style; 15/20.

Mount Difficulty Riesling “Target Gully” 2001 Otago – NZ (EUR 16,88)
Petrol more in the background and spices coming up and drier and more mineral on the palate. I liked this one better; 15.5/20.

Hutton Vale Riesling 2001 Eden Valley Australia (EUR 23,23)
The petrol was back here on the nose allied to a bitter tang. The palate was dry with white fruit, subdued aromatics (for Riesling) and the finish was firm; 14/20.

The Nigl range, which I tasted later, cast retrospective shade on these three Rieslings.

[Jenise]

Denis Horgan claims that Semillon does not do well enough in Margaret River for an unblended cuvée.

Never knew this, but it causes me to reflect on the Cullen sauv bl/sem I have in the cellar and think, "oh, that's why."

Re the Seresin, one strange day in October of 2000, Robin Garr, Sue Courtney and I found ourselves tasting wine together in New Zealand, and Seresin (both for the PN and SB) was one of the great finds of the trip. I bought several bottles off the pinot to bring home, and the wines lived up to the memories. Recent bottles acquired here, though, have disappointed for the reason you capture perfectly: the dark liqueur fruit. Too heavy, no joy. Too bad.

Thanks for the good notes.

Re: Margaret River Semillon-

Jenise, the Moss Wood Semillon seemed more than OK to me.

Maybe Denis was referring to his own terroir and I did not catch him correctly in the jostle and noise of the tasting room; I note from the World Atlas that there is a bit of distance between the two. I could have asked him about that because I tasted the Moss Wood first but I didn't think of it.

Tim, these wines from Nigl are usually top-notch eh. Good selection of the `05s here only.
I was talking to an Australian young lady who is a chef here in town. I was going through some of the wines on the shelf in DeVines and looking at a Schild Riesling from Barossa. I was a tad hesitant on real comment but she thought these days that winemakers there have figured out most grape varieties!

Re: Barossa Riesling

I would be wary of Riesling from such a warm area, Bob. Grosset does a good job in nearby Clare valley but I have yet to be really overwhelmed by any of his wines in same way as from the variably cool climates of Germany and alsace and the slightly warmer climate of Wachau and Kremstal. In the past I have thought the NZ is on the right track but the two tasted on Sunday did not stun me; but perhaps Nigl was unfair competition.

Doesn't Canada have some potential here?

Yeah tasted a few in my time but not many notes. Cave Springs from Ont. is good, but am more into BC Pinot Gris. Blue Mountain, Cedar Creek top my list.