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WTN: Further winding roads in wine country of Sonoma

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JC (NC)

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WTN: Further winding roads in wine country of Sonoma

by JC (NC) » Thu Oct 25, 2007 6:38 pm

The second day was spent mostly around Healdsburg. First stop was Gary Farrell Winery. Early morning fog but a pretty view from a hillside in the Russian River Valley. I tried three Pinot Noirs:
2005 GARY FARRELL PINOT NOIR, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY 14.2% alcohol $42
All pretty much the same bright cherry color with clarity and transparency. Cherry fruit, light and elegant. Food friendly--perhaps with mild cheese or salmon or pork.

2005 BIEN NACIDO P.N., SANTA BARBARA 14.3%
$50 only 397 cases
Slightly earthier nose. Appears thin in the glass but delivers flavor. Pourer says that Gary loves the Q Block from this vineyard. Earthier and heavier on palate but not terribly heavy. Still has finesse.

2005 STARR RIDGE VINEYARD (his own vineyard)
$50 about 935 cases
Somewhat floral nose. Chewy quality the blended Pinot lacks.

I believe Hop Kiln (recommended by Brian Miller) and Rochioli were next. (Rochioli was sold out of both the Pinot Noir and the Zinfandel and were pouring only one Chardonnay.) I didn't get the disinterested treatment that friends received there in August because there were only three of us there at the time. But was disappointed they were only pouring the one white wine. Hop Kiln is in an old hop kiln and while I didn't purchase any of the wines there, I did buy two grapeseed flavored oils--one with infused lemon zest and one with apricot flavoring. I had them shipped to me rather than try to pack and carry them with cargo luggage.

Headed into Healdsburg and did the Seghesio food and wine pairing as my "lunch." Small tasting portions of four dishes paired with four wines. They were fully booked for the first sitting so I ended up at a sitting by myself with the full attention of the pourer/server. The food was tasty though in very small portions and I liked some of the wines. I believe one was a Sangiovese and I ended up purchasing one of the Zins. A large operation with a lot of square footage for events. Then I parked near the Farmer's Market (art event also going on) and walked a few blocks to Selby Tasting Room. Friendly female pourer opened more wines than the advertised listing.
I found the

2005 SELBY PINOT NOIR ($32) to be a pale garnet color and very fragrant--floral and cherry mixing in the nose. I liked it.

2006 SELBY ROSE OF SYRAH, SONOMA COUNTY $15 was okay but unexciting.

2003 SELBY SYRAH, SONOMA COUNTY 14.2% alcohol was dark red/purple, opaque with a medium to long finish.

2006 BOBCAT ZINFANDEL, SONOMA COUNTY ($34)
16.2% alcohol but tastes less hot than you would think

2005 SELBY OLD VINES ZINFANDEL, SONOMA COUNTY
A Zin with finesse, light spiciness, plenty of fruit.

2004 MALBEC, ALEXANDER VALLEY (tried this before the Zins)
reddish-brown color, nearly opaque; 14.2% alcohol; strongly fragrant, rich tasting on palate; very nice!

2000 SWEET CINDY half-bottle is $17
Late Harvest Gewurztraminer/Sauvignon Blanc
16.5% alcohol Deep gold color with orangy tinge. Honeyed nose. 7% residual sugar
Picked at 52 brix, French oak barrels, aged for 17 months.

2000 ZINFANDEL PORT, SONOMA COUNTY half-bottle $14
Nice with the chocolate candy kisses they were providing at the tasting room.

Because I was parked several blocks away, I didn't purchase bottles but plan to order some online (probably Pinot Noir if I can't get it in Raleigh or Fayetteville and a Zin and maybe the Malbec.)

Across the street I went to the Rosenblum Tasting Room (didn't have time for Thumbprint which two people recommended or Gallo of Sonoma--more reason to go back in 2009 or 2010.) At Rosenblum I sampled 2005 Zinfandel, North Coast (Mendocino and Sonoma)$18, and 2005 Eagle Point Zin (Mendocino County) $25, and 2005 Harris Kratka Zin (Alexander Valley) $35. The Harris Kratka has some Petit Sirah and Carignan blended in.
Rutabaga nose but I didn't find that in the flavors. Balanced and tasty. I have liked the Harris Kratka and the Rockpile Road in previous vintages but didn't get to taste the Rockpile Road. Also had Annette's Reserve Zin (Redwood Valley, Mendocino) $35 with field blend again and it was balanced and tasty with 14.7% alcohol. I ended up purchasing not one of the Zins as I would have expected but a half bottle of non-vintage Desiree Chocolate Port .375ml for $18
Zin and Port grapes infused with chocolate. A novelty drink that might have broad appeal including for those who are not really into wines. They also had a 2005 Muscat Canelli for $16 the half-bottle.

I stopped at Martinelli before going back to Sonoma Orchid Inn to freshen up for dinner at Farmhouse Inn just down River Road a bit.
At Martinelli I tasted 2005 Tessa Lee Sauvignon Blan ($26); stainless steel fermentation; neutral oak; 2005 Russian River Valley Chardonnay (blend of vineyards) $28; 2005 Zio Tony Chardonnay $50; 2005 "Bella Vigna" Pinot Noir (a blend of vineyards for $28 for .375 ml. Nice. I bought a bottle of the Bella Vigna. Also tried 2004 "Terra Felice" (sp?) Syrah $45; and 2005 "Vigneto di Evo" Zinfandel $30. This is from a tiny vineyard site on Martinelli Road, old vines. Slight residual sugar. 16.7% alcohol
100-year-old vines, across from Jackass Hill.
Less than 100 cases. I bought a bottle of this also.

Lovely dinner at Farmhouse Inn with young chicken cooked pressed under hot bricks with chanterelles, carrots and salsify with 2005 Porter Creek Pinot Noir (another winery I didn't find time to visit.) But the highlight of the meal for me was the pumpkin creme brulee with
1991 NIEPOORT COLHEITA TAWNY PORT. 20% abv. Dark amber color. Nose of dried plums and apricots. Same in taste along with orange zest and nutmeats. A burn from the alcohol. Calls for a drawing room with a somewhat distant fire in the fireplace, plush armchairs and relaxed state of being with no worries, no hurry, but time to sip and appreciate. I am planning to write to the restaurant to see if they will share the pumpkin creme brulee recipe.

End of my second day in Sonoma County. More visits the next day before heading to Carmel.
Will post when I get the chance.

(Seems I just can't be brief.)
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John Treder

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Re: WTN: Further winding roads in wine country of Sonoma

by John Treder » Thu Oct 25, 2007 10:35 pm

You probably didn't notice, but you drove right past Joseph Swan at least 3 times.
Ok, it's off River Road on a tiny winding old track, but it's not more than 100 yards as the crow might fly from River Road. About 300 yards as the road crawls. :-)

I just love the Farmhouse Inn!

The times I've been in to Gary Farrell, I've been surrounded by a mob, and that sort of spoils the fun.
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Re: WTN: Further winding roads in wine country of Sonoma

by Brian K Miller » Fri Oct 26, 2007 2:59 am

Wow. Sounds like quite a range of wines! I haven't tasted through this area as heavily as Napa or Alexander Valley.
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Re: WTN: Further winding roads in wine country of Sonoma

by JC (NC) » Fri Oct 26, 2007 9:09 am

I arrived at Gary Farrell ten minutes before it opened and there were already a few people waiting but not a large crowd.

One of my chief regrets of this trip is that I didn't get to Joseph Swan. Had planned to go there Monday on my way to Carmel but didn't realize they are closed on Monday. More reason to return to Sonoma County.
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Mark Lipton

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Re: WTN: Further winding roads in wine country of Sonoma

by Mark Lipton » Fri Oct 26, 2007 10:47 am

JC (NC) wrote:The second day was spent mostly around Healdsburg. First stop was Gary Farrell Winery. [...]
2005 BIEN NACIDO P.N., SANTA BARBARA 14.3%
$50 only 397 cases
Slightly earthier nose. Appears thin in the glass but delivers flavor. Pourer says that Gary loves the Q Block from this vineyard. [...]
2005 STARR RIDGE VINEYARD (his own vineyard)


JC,
My recollection is that Gary Farrell is no longer connected to the winery that bears his name. Did they intimate otherwise there? Or were they speaking of past history?

Mark Lipton
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Re: WTN: Further winding roads in wine country of Sonoma

by JC (NC) » Fri Oct 26, 2007 11:02 am

Thinking back, Mark, I'm not sure if they were implying that Gary is presently involved or not. He could love that vineyard block even if not making the current wines.

I looked at the website and there is nothing there to suggest a change in ownership. Still carries Gary's biography and winemaking philosophy, etc. I would be interested in confirmation of a sale of the winery and who the present owner is.

Found the answer in a "Wine Spectator" news item:

Farrell sold his winery to spirits giant Allied Domecq in 2004 (though not the two vineyards he owns with his wife, Debbie), and today it's owned by Fortune Brands' wine division, Beam Wine Estates. Farrell had agreed to stay on as winemaker for one year after the initial sale, then he hoped to retire. "When he sold the winery, the plan was for him to step away, even from the beginning," said Beam public relations manager Tony Lombardi. "In August he wanted to step away completely. We promoted his assistant, Susan Reed, who'd been with him for the last four years, and Gary stayed on through the '06 harvest."

Further says that he will continue to advise Susan Reed through the 2007 harvest. He has decided against retirement and is engaged in building a new facility centered on Pinot Noir wines.
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Re: WTN: Further winding roads in wine country of Sonoma

by Mark Lipton » Fri Oct 26, 2007 11:29 pm

JC (NC) wrote:Further says that he will continue to advise Susan Reed through the 2007 harvest. He has decided against retirement and is engaged in building a new facility centered on Pinot Noir wines.


OK, that part is news to me. What I heard was that he was looking for backers for his new wine venture, name TBA. Thanks for the update.

Mark Lipton

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