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BR: WineReport 2008 by TomStevenson

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BR: WineReport 2008 by TomStevenson

by TomHill » Sun Oct 28, 2007 11:00 pm

I've generally liked this annual review over the yrs, particularly the GrapeVine and the Opinion sections that accompany each region reviewed. I've also enjoyed the Most Exciting Or Unusual Finds section for each region. This yr's version seems to be somewhat weaker on those sections than previous yrs. Nonetheless, these sections do make the book worthwhile.
A few specific points:
1. Doug Frost's section on "Other US States" contains a few errors. He states that NM rules now allow the NM consumer to bring in an unlimited amount of wine. I'm pretty confident that this is incorrect and the 2 cs/month limitation still stands.
He also refers in his Grapevine comment to New Mexico's CallaghanVnyd. Unless they've moved, they're still located in Arizona as far as I know.
He also makes not one mention of Virginia or any of their wines. A pretty glaring oversight, IMHO.
2. The "Wine Science" section by Ron Jackson is one of the most interesting sections in the entire book (OK...full disclosure here...I didn't read the entire book...skipped the sections on Bordeaux and Burgundy).
He cites some recent work on wine left in partially opened btls over several days times. The changes observed are not the result of oxidation processes (production of acetaldhyde even over several week's time, browning in color, precipitation of polyphenolics, etc) but merely the loss of aromatic compounds, as measured by instruments. This is something I've long claimed, that the changes in wine from so-called "breathing" are the evaporation of volatiles into the air and not the product of oxidation reactions. He cites VernSingleton's statement that wine has an extraordinary ability to absorb oxygen w/o showing signs of oxidation.
He also cites recent research that storing btls w/ corks upright does not increase oxygen ingress into the wine, though it does w/ wines using synthetic corks. As expected, screwcaps do not allow any oxygen ingress when stored upright.
He also discusses research on the origins of wine yeasts that are responsible for alcoholic fermentation. He dismisses their presence in the bloom on the skin of the grapes and origination in the vnyds (so much for yrs of dumping pomace in the vnyd being responsible for the yeasts) and states that most wine yeasts in "natural" fermentations come from the winery equiptment and not from the grapes skin and in the vnyds. He also states that the original wine yeasts came from oak trees and the soil beneath them, claiming this is why the origins of wine correspond to the southernmost extent of oak tree existance.
He also cites a study of the "Perfect Sommelier" device that modifies the tannins with magnets and ages the wine in minutes. He points out that NMR (which has far stronger magnetic fields) would not be useful as a device to measure tannin structures if it were actually modifying the structure of the tannins. He cites a double-blind/randomized study that could not detect an effect of the "Perfect Sommelier" magnets on wines.
Of course, since this section is written by a scientist and contradicts much of what we have been told as "truth" by wine authorities, it is probably recommended that this section be rejected as fradulent.

All in all, despite being a bit weaker than previous yrs, this is a good reference and read and worth buying.
TomHill
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Re: BR: WineReport 2008 by TomStevenson

by Robin Garr » Mon Oct 29, 2007 8:23 am

TomHill wrote:He cites some recent work on wine left in partially opened btls over several days times. The changes observed are not the result of oxidation processes (production of acetaldhyde even over several week's time, browning in color, precipitation of polyphenolics, etc) but merely the loss of aromatic compounds, as measured by instruments. This is something I've long claimed, that the changes in wine from so-called "breathing" are the evaporation of volatiles into the air and not the product of oxidation reactions.


But ... but ... {spluttering} ... whence that funky nutty Sherrylike character that starts turning up in wine after a few days, then? That description has always been a sure signal of oxidation to me.

I can buy the evaporation of volatiles effect and might even argue that this effect is to blame for "improving" some modern-style fruit bombs over a day or two in an open bottle. But no oxidation? Not that this is rigorous science, but that sure seems counter-intuitive to me.
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Re: BR: WineReport 2008 by TomStevenson

by David Creighton » Mon Oct 29, 2007 10:48 am

i don't have my copy with me; but isn't virginia mentioned in another section than dougs? i really love this book because of all the inside info that never makes the mags - even decanter. i just wish that tom's loire correspondent didn't love oak so much; but even his section is very interesting. i find the relative lack of CA wines in the top 100 section kind of interesting. has anyone noticed that that section is actually in order of toms preferences - he did taste them all - his correspondents send him a box with their entries for that section.
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Hmmmm...

by TomHill » Mon Oct 29, 2007 2:23 pm

Robin Garr wrote:
But ... but ... {spluttering} ... whence that funky nutty Sherrylike character that starts turning up in wine after a few days, then? That description has always been a sure signal of oxidation to me.

I can buy the evaporation of volatiles effect and might even argue that this effect is to blame for "improving" some modern-style fruit bombs over a day or two in an open bottle. But no oxidation? Not that this is rigorous science, but that sure seems counter-intuitive to me.


Hmmmm.... I don't ever recalling smelling acetaldehyde (smell of baked sherry) in a btl of wine I've left on the counter, even for several weeks...and I leave a $hitload (Kansas colloquialism for "a lot") of 'em out there.
It doesn't say that oxidation doesn't take place and you could probably the increase in acetaldhyde over several days time, I suspect. But, like for a piece of iron, the oxidation chemical rate constant is very/very small I think for wine. Not so for magnesium or sodium or a wine in a highly reduced (old) state. I've left 20-30 yr old reds out open on the counter and it is noticibly browner/murkier the next morning.
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Re: BR: WineReport 2008 by TomStevenson

by Mark Lipton » Mon Oct 29, 2007 4:35 pm

TomHill wrote: This is something I've long claimed, that the changes in wine from so-called "breathing" are the evaporation of volatiles into the air and not the product of oxidation reactions. He cites VernSingleton's statement that wine has an extraordinary ability to absorb oxygen w/o showing signs of oxidation.


Tom,
I will quibble with what is written here. Firstly, the oxidation of wine is not a monolithic process: certain components, thiols especially, I would expect to oxidize very rapidly, in a matter of seconds. Others, such as ethanol and the phenolics, I agree will oxidize far slower. (This is demonstrably true since distilled spirits can be stored open for months at a time with little to no change) So, the changes in a wine's flavor that arise from its prolonged exposure to air are likely a result of both oxidation and evaporation.

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Nope....

by TomHill » Mon Oct 29, 2007 4:42 pm

Mark,
Not a quibble at all....I fully agree that it's not a monolithic process and the oxidation of some of the components in the wine will be much more rapid than other components. But the oxidation of alcohol to acetaldhyde I think is pretty slow. I'd guess the rapidly oxidizing components are not so sensorally significant.
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Re: Nope....

by Mark Lipton » Mon Oct 29, 2007 5:13 pm

TomHill wrote:Mark,
Not a quibble at all....I fully agree that it's not a monolithic process and the oxidation of some of the components in the wine will be much more rapid than other components. But the oxidation of alcohol to acetaldhyde I think is pretty slow. I'd guess the rapidly oxidizing components are not so sensorally significant.
Tom


Yup, the oxidation of ethanol to acetaldehyde as mediated by oxygen is slow enough to be measured with a half-life of decades, I'd guess. However, if you think that thiol oxidation isn't sensorally signficant, I've got some skunk juice I'd like you to sample :wink: More seriously, thiol oxidation carried out by the dissolved oxygen in the coffee is what leads to the familiar smell of fresh-brewed coffee. (That's why coffee is best when brewed with cold water brought near to, but not to, boiling: it maximizes the amount of dissolved oxygen)

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Re: Nope....

by TomHill » Mon Oct 29, 2007 5:18 pm

Mark Lipton wrote:Yup, the oxidation of ethanol to acetaldehyde as mediated by oxygen is slow enough to be measured with a half-life of decades, I'd guess. However, if you think that thiol oxidation isn't sensorally signficant, I've got some skunk juice I'd like you to sample :wink:

So...it must say "Coturri" on the label??? :-)

More seriously, thiol oxidation carried out by the dissolved oxygen in the coffee is what leads to the familiar smell of fresh-brewed coffee. (That's why coffee is best when brewed with cold water brought near to, but not to, boiling: it maximizes the amount of dissolved oxygen)

Mark Lipton


Amazing the stuff I learn on WLDG. Thanks for educating me, Mark.
Tom
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Re: Nope....

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon Oct 29, 2007 8:57 pm

Tom, I skipped the wine science chapter. Will look asap. I have been buying this guide for years by the way.

Tom, have you seen Jamie Goode`s book, "Wine Science"? Great book but one needs time to really read through.
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Yup...

by TomHill » Tue Oct 30, 2007 9:45 am

Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:Tom, have you seen Jamie Goode`s book, "Wine Science"? Great book but one needs time to really read through.


Yup, Bob...got the book. Only skipped around in it so far, but need to sit down and read it thoroughly yet.
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Virginia...MeBad

by TomHill » Tue Oct 30, 2007 1:40 pm

creightond wrote:i don't have my copy with me; but isn't virginia mentioned in another section than dougs? .

The VA wines were included in the NorthAtlantic Section, a section I just sorta skimmed over.
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Re: Yup...

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Oct 30, 2007 2:05 pm

TomHill wrote:
Bob Parsons Alberta. wrote:Tom, have you seen Jamie Goode`s book, "Wine Science"? Great book but one needs time to really read through.


Yup, Bob...got the book. Only skipped around in it so far, but need to sit down and read it thoroughly yet.
Tom


I found some of the scientific info way over my head but felt reading a bit here and there was best way to go!
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Re: Virginia...MeBad

by Thomas » Tue Oct 30, 2007 2:31 pm

TomHill wrote:The VA wines were included in the NorthAtlantic Section, a section I just sorta skimmed over.
Tom


Should that be taken as a "sorta" slap at the NorthAtlantic?
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