WTN: mostly French, Austrian

Tuesday was one of those days, after work I took a sick Basset to the vet (after maybe 2 hours sleep night before), then went on to a speech. Betsy had a full schedule too, but picked up some chirashi sushi and seaweed salad for our dinner on my return. I thought about sparkling, but went with GV, the 2006 Schloss Gobelsburg "Steinsetz" Grüner Veltliner. Pleasant lemon and apple fruit, a little pepper. Pleasant enough wine, but a bit of a disappointment for '06 GV, I quite preferred the cheaper Gobelsburg Gobelsburger. Thursday I had some before using it to braise cabbage, held well. B-

Thursday I picked up some supermarket rotisserie chicken (hey, I was tired!) and braised some cabbage and made salad. Wine was the 2005 Granger Moulin a Vent. Approachable for an '05 from a bigger cru, sweet red plum and black cherry fruit, a hint of smoke. There are some tannins in background, but nothing obtrusive. Nice, but for me undistinctive, I'd happily drink but not search out. B

Friday Betsy was off- whoo hoo, Date Night! But we were both tired, and agreed best dates can be at home. She broiled 2 rib steaks, served with potatoes and pureed watercress. I opened a simple Bordeaux, the 2003 Vrai Canon Bouché (Canon-Fronsac). Very ripe, macerated cherries and red berry fruit. Big for appelation, on verge of overripeness, but a nice accompaniment to a steak, and I enjoy. Good value at $10. B

Saturday I thawed some pork/fennel sausage, made a fresh tomato sauce and put the mix over pasta. Wine was the 2005 La Milliere Vieille Vignes Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Red fruit, some spicebox, some tannins that need some time. Moderate acidity. Not really exciting, hoping some time will help. A little closed? OK Southern Rhone. B/B-

Sunday I spent the morning with speeches, but had afternoon free to make dinner while Betsy worked. With pork spareribs with sauce, grilled squash, and potatoes, the 2001 Meulenhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese. For my tastes, ready to go. Just a hint of petrol, some clean slate and wet stone, peach fruit accented by green apple and citrus. Nice wine, fine for producer, with the bonus of 8.5% alcohol. Fun. B+/B

Tonight Betsy is in city, for two nights she's at an academic conference/symposium (Aida and personal choice v. government!). My dinner is some of her lunch leftovers, a pasta with tuna/olive sauce. I'm thinking Freisa/grignolino, but what comes upstairs is the 2002 Domaine Bart"Les Champs Salomon " Marsannay. Great argument for a ripe (but not overripe) vintage. More concentration than most Marsannays, pretty Bing cherry fruit with just a hint of kirsch. Some earth, smoke, cocoa powder. Good length, very pleasing. Wow for level. A-/B+

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

Tuesday was one of those days, after work I took a sick Basset to the vet (after maybe 2 hours sleep night before), then went on to a speech. Betsy had a full schedule too, but picked up some chirashi sushi and seaweed salad for our dinner on my return. I thought about sparkling, but went with GV, the 2006 Schloss Gobelsburg "Steinsetz" Grüner Veltliner. Pleasant lemon and apple fruit, a little pepper. Pleasant enough wine, but a bit of a disappointment for '06 GV, I quite preferred the cheaper Gobelsburg Gobelsburger. Thursday I had some before using it to braise cabbage, held well. B-

Many of the 2006 Austrians aren't showing much right now. The freshness and fruit seemed to have booked flights out of Austria and left the mineral and structure at the gate. I look forward to retasting these in a few months after they've had a chance to collect themselves and get over the jet-lag. Also, not many of the Smaragd and upper-end wines from other regions have yet to land. 2005 showed much better directly on release.

[David M. Bueker]

I'm not shocked that the Steinsetz didn't show that well. How long since it got off the boat - maybe 2 weeks or so?

I've been through several 2001 Meulenhof wines over the last year, and they are not opening up at all like I expected. So for now I am just letting them sleep.

the 2006 Schloss Gobelsburg "Steinsetz" Grüner Veltliner. Pleasant lemon and apple fruit, a little pepper. Pleasant enough wine, but a bit of a disappointment for '06 GV, I quite preferred the cheaper Gobelsburg Gobelsburger.

Notwithstanding the above comments about needing time to rest, I am just curious how often you/one prefers the Gobelsburger GV to the Steinsetz? Is this a rare occasion? Are both of them from consistent sources?

[David M. Bueker]

Well I have never been a fan of the Gobelsburger, but have bought the Steinsetz in several vintages (not 2006 - but not for any specific reason).

I'd certainly try the Steinsetz again, it could be travel shock ( picked up maybe 10 days ago at a store I don't get to a lot, so no clue), or Michael Pronay thought it could be a cork issue (natural). I didn't get any TCA, but I'm average (if anything, low) in sensitivity. I've generally preferred the Steinsetz, though I like the Gobelsburger- light easy style. I believe Michael P. said latter is at least partially purchased grapes.

Oh, and I thought the Meulenhof was entering maturity form my tastes, but I do have a passive cellar (very slow swing from 50° Feb to 66-68° in August/Sept).

Michael Pronay thought it could be a cork issue (natural). I didn't get any TCA, but I'm average (if anything, low) in sensitivity.

Fruit-scalping (as the Australians name it) is a well-known cork taint even with absolutely no TCA discernible. Imnsho it's responsible for bottle variations in cork stoppered bottles (sharing provenance, of course).