WTN: 2 very tasty Loires

Friday was one of those days when you're just happy to get home. I grabbed some scallops and pre-formed crab cakes at fishmarket, which I had with some leftover veggies, and a futomaki appetizer. Wine was the 2006 Mardon "Tres Vieille Vignes" Quincy. Nice midweight Sauvignon Blanc, built around the 3 Gs: gooseberry, grapefruit, and grass. Plenty of fruit, nice acidic backbone. Could give most Sancerres or Pouilly-Fumes a run for their money. B+

Saturday I had to work, I stopped at market on way home and picked up some pork chops and pears. Browned the chops, sauteed the pear, finished with some Quincy and ginger. Wine was the 2004 Domaine de Belliviere "L'Effraie" Coteaux du Loir. Drop-dead gorgeous Chenin. Apple and white peach fruit, wet rocks galore, a touch of wet sheep wool. Acidity is quite high, but the fruit keeps it in balance. Matches very well with the pork. Great length, density. This needs time but I sure enjoyed it anyway! Will try and hold off with my other bottle, but it will be hard. Seems to be sold out locally, I hope the 2005 is as good. A-

Tonight we went to a local tavern for watercress/beet salad, a burger for Bets, a chicken sandwich for me. Not really a wine place, but both the Laurel Glen Reds and the Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Reserve were red and wet. Slight edge to the Laurel Glen.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

2004 Domaine de Belliviere "L'Effraie" Coteaux du Loir.

I opened a bottle of this last January with Mark S. When first opened, it was giving nothing on the nose or palate. However, after about half an hour it opened up and was, as you say, a lovely bottle of Chenin Blanc.

I hope the 2005 is as good.

I opened this with my brother this past summer. Excellent nose and very nice on the palate except that it was much sweeter than the 2004, and, to my taste, even a little cloying (and I like demisec Chenin). However, other WTNs I've seen have not noted this. I'm hoping it was the bottle or the state of my palate that day. For the record, my brother was impressed.

2004 Domaine de Belliviere "L'Effraie" Coteaux du Loir.

I opened a bottle of this last January with Mark S. When first opened, it was giving nothing on the nose or palate. However, after about half an hour it opened up and was, as you say, a lovely bottle of Chenin Blanc.

Glad to hear these reports. I guess the wine is getting better and better with time in bottle.

"The 3 Gs" -- good one, Dale!

2004 Domaine de Belliviere "L'Effraie" Coteaux du Loir.

I opened a bottle of this last January with Mark S. When first opened, it was giving nothing on the nose or palate. However, after about half an hour it opened up and was, as you say, a lovely bottle of Chenin Blanc.

I hope the 2005 is as good.

I opened this with my brother this past summer. Excellent nose and very nice on the palate except that it was much sweeter than the 2004, and, to my taste, even a little cloying (and I like demisec Chenin). However, other WTNs I've seen have not noted this. I'm hoping it was the bottle or the state of my palate that day. For the record, my brother was impressed.

Hi Guys,

The 2005 L'Effraie is very different from the 04. I've tried the 05 3 times now and it has more residual sugar and less apparent acidity. It also has more glycerin texture or body. In June it had a lovely pure chenin fruit nose of quince and acacia flower without any funk. After being open 24 hours there was better balance and the wine seemed less sweet.

The last time I tried it was about 3 weeks ago and it developed a funky green note (someone said asparagus, another called it green olive) and seemed a little awkward right out of the bottle. I think it is in a weird in between phase at the moment. It has plenty of concentration and should age into something nice (I hope).

The 04 is closer to sec level of sweetness when I tried it. I like both a lot but wouldn't open the 05 right now.

For drier 2005 Loire Chenin Blanc, the Chidaine Les Argyles and the Foreau Clos Nadine Sec were very enjoyable recently, even if very primary. Would recommend both without hesitation.

Marc,

Thanks for your comments. Have you tried (recently or not) the Vieilles Vignes Eparses from either 2004 or 2005? Thanks again.

Steve,

Here are my recent Belliviere notes.

2005 Domaine de Bellivière Coteaux du Loir Vieilles Vignes Eparses 7/20/2007: Really pure nose that is the essence of Chenin. Quince, honey, acacia flower, lots of richness, denisec sweet, high glycerin and mouth coating. The structure is buried right now under the baby fat. How will these age? There is plenty of material but the alcohol is high and I wonder if there is enough acidic backbone.


2004 Domaine de Bellivière Jasnières Les Rosiers 9/19/2006: Vibrandt nose, lots of great chenin smells here. Honey dipped apple skin, some flowery notes too. Powdered chalk, pear- apple fruit, vitamin minerally hint. Long finish. Sec tendre to full demi sec sweetness, but really balanced well. Very fine stuff.


2004 Domaine de Bellivière Coteaux du Loir L'Effraie 12/27/2006: Some wooly chenin smells on opening, then honeyed apples. After about an hour lots of wet rocks too. Not as concentrated or as long as the Jasnieres Les Rosiers, but very fine for a Wednesday night.

I haven't tried the 2004 VV Eparses.

Hope that helps.

Best,
Marc

Here are my recent Belliviere notes.

Thanks much. I'm trying to get organized to post more notes. Here's one from late August on the 2005 Rouge-Gorge (Coteaux du Loir). We had it at dinner with friends just back from Provence; we also shared a bottle they had brought back:

Fairly dark in color; I remember previous vintages being lighter. Almost as dark as Phil’s wine from Provence. Very tight and young, but plenty of structure, nice peppery notes on the nose and the palate. Doesn’t show the 15% alcohol. Potentially excellent, I’ll buy more given a chance.

thaks for TNs. I have both the L'Effraie and Esparges '05s, good to know re sweetness.