Last night was my turn to host SOBER (Several Oenophiles Being Extremely Rambunctious). I was a tad disappointed with my own performance the last time- food was ok, not great. So this year I made sure I scheduled for an evening Betsy was home, and she did the cooking and joined us.
We had two non-blind bubblies as we gathered, snacked on salmon and liver mousse, and listened to Lucy beg for attention.
1998 Charles Ellner "Cuvee Seduction" Brut Champagne.
I joked to Cathleen it is intended to be served between Taittinger's Prelude and Nocturne. 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir. Same blend as their Prestige, but in this one the Chardonnay is not all aged in wood. I think I prefer the Prestige by a nose. This is a pleasant enough bubbly, some yeast, quite round, a touch of sweetness. Nothing that would make me want to go looking for more, but happy to drink. B
NV Francois Pinon Touraine Rose Brut
I wanted to serve this since Gilman writes more bubbly notes and Loire notes than just about anyone, and thought he should try. I just love this stuff. Wild strawberries with a hint of cranberry bitterness, chalky/flinty minerality, more length than the Champagne. I bought out CSW, and this was my last one. Winesearcher shows no more. Hopefully another batchj will make it this way. A-/B+
Then nine winegeeks (well, eight and Betsy) crammed into our little dining room. Flights were served double blind, but of course not for me. First course was a Ming Tsai recipe for clams (she used littlenecks and cockles) and udon in a lemongrass broth. I had noticed Ming's wine recommendation was Dagueneau's Pur Sang, since that was part of the first flight seemed like kismet.
Flight Number One
2006 Courier "Ryan's Vineyard" Sauvignon Blanc
(decanted for a couple of hours around noon, then back in bottle, then in decanter to be served)
First vintage of this wine, made by Jason Berthold, a sous chef at French Laundry, with I believe some advice from Abe Schoener ,the guy at Scholium Project. I know Jason slightly, so had gotten on list. This debutante held its own admirably for my tastes. I don't think anyone went to SB (or Napa) at first, some guesses for Semillon or Chardonnay. When I said SB, someone asked if Muscat was added. As far as I know, all SB. Weighty wine, but lots of bright acids keep it lively. Tropical fruit, some lighter wood notes. Mark says he's never tasted so much papaya in a wine. A slightly oxidative style that gives it complexity in its youth. A sip while cleaning up close to midnight was even better. Bravo, Jason. B+/A-
2001 Didier Dagueneau "Pur Sang" Pouilly-Fume
A sweet edge, gooseberry and Granny Smiths with a good dose of coconutty oak. Big, powerful, good acids. These wines are never typical, but they are always memorable. I like, but not quite as much as the Courier. B+
1996 Laville Haut Brion (Pessac-Leognan)
So here's a scary thought. John's theory is that the pre-ox problems of white Burgundies may also rear their head in white Bordeaux. I had this last year, thought it remarkable and fresh. This is showed a little edge of oxidation. It is the most identifiable of the bunch, Dan says "white Bordeaux" as soon as he tastes. A honied Semillon note, with apples and figs. Some wood spice. OK, but the oxidative notes are a bit bothersome. B
Flight Two
all double-decanted in morning
1990 Trotanoy (Pomerol)
Craig guesses Pomerol quickly. I had loved this wine at a '90 horizontal in 2005, but this doesn't show so well. Doesn't seem cooked or corked, but doesn't have the length or lushness I remember. Basic cassis fruit, a kind of ferric minerality. Mark notes iodine- I don't get that,but several others agree. Certainly a drinkable mature Bordeaux, but without being anything to search for (and most expensive wine of tasting). B
1990 Pape Clement (Pessac-Leognan)
Another wine I bought based on that horizontal. I thought this was just lovely last night. Not huge, a beautiful svelte ripe Bordeaux. Coffee and cigarbox framing blackcurrant and berry fruit. Lots of earthy notes. Mark got Graves quite fast. Definitely red wine QPR of the night. A-/A
1990 Lagrange (St Julien)
Most 1990ish of the bunch -fruit riper than other two. Ripe cassis fruit, a hint of vanillin sweetness, but with a bit of delicacy. Quite good, but maybe not best bottle I've had in last couple years. B+/A-
With the 1990s, the main course arrived. I had originally envisioned a Sangiovese course (mature Monsanto CCR and Pergole Tortre), but when I switched I told Betsy to keep the original menu. Straccato, mashed potatoes, green beans with sesame oil. Very good, I worried the intense sauce would be too tart for the wines, but I think ok. Great job, Betsy.
Flight Three (Mark was in Graves within two sniffs)
double decanted an hour or so before folks arrived
1983 Haut Brion
Just a lovely bottle, great acidic backbone, resolved tannins, youthful fruit. Black plum and currant with herbs and smoke, earth. Excellent length, purity, focus. Gets pleasantly cedary after a bit. Others said they had tried recently, not shown near as well (no great wines, just great bottles, blah blah blah). Easily WOTN for me, though I was happy with almost all of the wines. A/A-
1983 La Mission de Haut Brion
Sterner, more primary, tannins less evolved. Dark fruit and tobacco. Actually seems less evolved than other bottle from same source I carried to goodbye dinner for David Wainwright couple years ago. I like this a lot, but more for potential than right now. A-
Flight Four
Decanted right before serving
1970 Figeac (St. Emilion)
Pretty red fruit accented by green herbs and olive. Some Cab Franc comments immediately. I think I liked a bit more than group. Red plum fruit, those lovely integrated green notes, develops tobacco, mushrooms, and cedar in glass. The remainder of this bottle is my present to myself as I clean up, evolving over a couple of hours. Rich, complex, long. A-
1970 Gruaud-Larose(St Julien)
Not a pristine bottle. Fill was just into neck, but of course in those old Cordier bottles that's a long neck. Cork was saturated and totally fell apart. Didn't show cooked or even especially oxidized, just way more mature than its flightmate. Some tobacco, leather, ripe black fruit but a tad tired. Still tasty, but this fell apart after an hour. A sip while dishwashing led remainder of this to go directly to vinegar jar. B
There was a recipe for apple cake in the Sunday NYT magazine, Betsy had noted similarities to recipes she had from my mom and her aunt. The magazine inspired her to try her aunt's, which included some OJ and almond extract. Think it was popular around table (I don't eat dessert). For apples I debated Quarts de Chaume or Riesling, went with the
2003 Von Hövel "Oberemmeler Hütte" Riesling Eiswein . I though this was simplistic Riesling, sweet but without a lot of depth. Ripe apple fruit, decent acidity. A few people thought it showed pretty well with the cake, a couple liked it less than I did. OK, but glad to have the cellar space back. B-
Overall, a very good night, I felt I had redeemed myself (or maybe that Betsy had redeemed me). Nice group of people
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency