WTN: Beaujolais, Lazio, Mosel

Friday Betsy made a Calabrese lamb chop recipe, simmered in a tomato/pepper/olive sauce. I was short of Southern Italian reds, so moved to Central Italy. While I tend towards more traditional styles, I've always has a softpoint for the 1999 Falesco Montiano (Lazio), and opened that. Modern lush Merlot, ripe red plum and black cherry fruit framed by light mocha notes from the oak. Some earth and tobacco, could probably squeeze into a flight of modern Right Bankers without raising alarms. Some tannins, but no intrusive. Doesn't hold up well overnight, but night one a strong B+
(I guess maybe one reason I don't mind the modernity is that unlike a Tuscan, I don't have a Lazio/Latium traditional benchmark to compare with).

That evening I was wiped (speech and then taking a group into city Thursday night had meant few hours sleep), but waited up for Betsy. As I read Michael Chabon's "The Yiddish Policemen's Union (very good so far), I didn't feel like more red. So had a glass of the 2006 Monchhof Estate Riesling QbA (MSR). I was looking forward to this, having read a good note and having liked the 2005. But I found this rather sweet and pedestrian, frankly quite unappealing. There is a slatey mineral note, but the sweetness seems too much for the modest acidity to me, lending the wine a bit of a Del Monte Pears in Heavy Syrup™ note. Tried again on next night, a bit better, more of a natural fruit edge, but still very sweet. I don't claim to be able to spot vinification techniques (I leave that to better and more knowledgable tasters), but I kept thinking "chaptalized. " Which of course is allowed in Qba (and I don't usually mind), but if I was right I'd be curious why in 2006. Anyone know if this had sugar/must added? Others more experienced than I in Riesling have liked this , but for me B-/C+.

For my dinner Saturday (Betsy played a double) I got some pierogies and bratwurst (just looked better than the kielbasi) and sauteed with onions, plus a salad. Decided to open the 2006 JP Brun (Terres Dorees) "L'Ancien" Beaujolais VV. Not quite as big as the '05, more like older vintages. A touch of tannin, but mostly about black cherry and raspberry fruit. Nice welterweight, light enough to dance around in a food friendly way, but enough punch. Will get more. B+/B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

Hi Dale,

Glad to hear you liked this year's basic Brun. I confess I had some worries about ripeness, so I'll have to give it a do-over. Speaking of Beaujolais, if you get a chance, track down some Lapierre, if you haven't. The 06 is super.

Best,
Cliff

Chambers Street held a tasting of fifteen 2006 Germans a few months ago, and I remember being underwhelmed by the Monchoff Estate Riesling. My favorite among the drier wines was the Schafer-Frohlich Estate Haltbrocken, at $19.99, so worth a try. But Monchoff came through at the end: my favorite wine of the tasting was the last: Monchoff Erdener Pralat Auslese ($36.99).

I had my last of a bunch of 1997 Montianos a few months ago too. Lovely, and a bargain for the quality.

[David M. Bueker]

I'm generally underwhelmed by Monchof at the lower end.

Haven't tried the lower end of the scale this year, but I'll second the Pralat Auslese. It's big, but keeps its size under control impressively.

Cliff, I gotta confess- I'm not even sure are you concerned re over or under! I didn't think as ripe as the '03 or '05, but riper than the '01 I think. I thought kind of standard Brun.

Oswaldo, glad to see you here! Will keep the Auslese in mind.

David, I did like the '05 estate, but you're probably right overall.

Hi Dale,

For me it was under, along the lines of 04. Though, like 04, it may simply need some time to sort itself out.