Such is my devotion to wine that I decided to brave a particularly sharp attack of lumbago to attend what has in the past been the best annual tasting of Bordeaux and Burgundy with growers' presence for which I receive invitations.
I enjoyed the tasting less than in some previous years. My back was partly to blame as it affected my concentration and led me to leave early but also the absence of many of the growers who had already departed by the third day on which I attended the tasting.
There has been discussion in another thread on whether vintages still matter. Well, this tasting demonstrated the strong stylistic differences between several vintages, of which this importer holds an impressive inventory, at the same time as confirming that there are excellent wines in the less fashionable years which also have the advantage of being more reasonably priced.
Bordeaux 2006 barrel samples.
I always find these very difficult to taste because of strong tannins and undigested wood and only tried the following four. My impression is of another successful vintage in spite of the lukewarm press. The prices seem very high compared with those for 2004 at the recent Foires aux Vins in the supermarkets.
CH. PHELAN SEGUR (EUR 27,83) was quite bold showing good firm and firm tannins. CH. RAUZAN-SEGLA (EUR 63,07) was finer with some fragrance peeping out from behind the tannins. CH. SOCIANDO MALLET (EUR 36,60) was meaty, round and full and CH. LEOVILLE-BARTON (EUR 58,53 but sold out) was meaty and full of matter with hints of greater finesse and complexity than the others.
Maison Schroder & Schyler
This Bordeaux merchant showed the wines of several châteaux as well as of their own Château Kirwan.
CH. KIRWAN 2004 (EUR 43,02) showed good fruit, substance and promise but I don’t quite get its Decanter Award; 16/20. CH. FOURCAS HOSTEN 2000 (EUR 14,91) was rich, round and complex as is typical of the vintage; 16/20 and excellent QPR. CH. LES CARMES HAUT BRION 1999 (EUR 30 special offer -“so”-) was big, long and open with a nice leathery touch; 15.5/20. CH. PONTET CANET 1999 (EUR 25 so) was a bit more backward but showed the charm of the vintage allied to structure – 16/20- and CH. PONTET CANET 1998 (EUR 30 so) was yet more backward and more austere in style but showing good fruit and now ripe structure; 16/20. CH. MONTROSE 1998 (EUR 53 so) was a fine upright wine with good fruit and structure and becoming expressive – 17/20- and CH. DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU 1998 (EUR 55 so) added fruity fragrance (raspberry), richness and complex charm; 17.5/20.
Château Phélan Ségur
This used to be my favourite cru bourgeois alongside Poujeaux. Merlot nowadays makes up about 50% of the wines. I am unconvinced that this is a good development in Saint-Estèphe because it tends to soften the wines and thereby, IMHO, make them lose some of their classy austerity. Still, this was an impressive range.
FRANK PHELAN (2nd wine)
2002 (EUR 15,85) was round, fruity and very pleasant – 15/20- whilst 2003 (EUR 19,42) was softer, richer and more velvety with a hint of sugar; 14.5/20. I prefer 2002.
CHATEAU PHELAN SEGUR (Grand Vin)
2000 (EUR 43,17) was rich, round, subtle, structured and long; 16.5/20. 1999 (EUR 25 so) was seductive and long- 16/20- and 1998 (EUR 26 so) was more serious and structured and showing good meaty fruit; 16/20. Finally 1996 (no tariff) was still a bit closed aromatically but showed a fine upright classical Bordeaux style with good complexity; 16.5/20.
One interesting development is the good showing of the 1998 Médocs. The left bank clarets of that year were initially viewed as somewhat green with excessively stiff tannins. They seem to have thrown this off whilst remaining more serious in style than the charming and under-rated 99s.
The Magrez range, Pape-Clément, etc., was also on show but I skipped them this time. I have tried them before and found them over-sophisticated and over-priced for me.
Domaine Alain Brumont
Once again I preferred Bouscassé to Montus, which tends to have a sophisticated patina that attenuates the frank, austere Madiran typicity.
I don’t recall having tasted PACHERENC DU VIC BILH previously and this MONTUS Sec 2004 (EUR 14,70) was very attractive showing a complex mix of white fruit, citrus, floral and honeyed aromas on a fresh but round body; 16.5/20. This is close to being on a par with the superb Jurançon from Charles Hours.
CH. BOUSCASSE 1999 (EUR 8 so) is a real QPR bargain showing fruit and nerve with a degree of suppleness which I have not often found in Bouscassé; 16/20. CH. BOUSCASSE 2002 (EUR 8 so) is more closed and shows more complexity with a touch of liqueur and less suppleness; 16/20 and also a good QPR bargain. The extra dimension, depth, complexity and length was apparent on CH. BOUSCASSE VV 1999 (EUR 15 so) but it is more closed at this stage – 17/20- and CH. BOUSCASSE VV 2002 was perhaps even more impressive in its potential with its brooding chocolate notes but it is naturally not yet ready; potentially 17.5/20. None of these Bouscassés had any reason to envy the preceding Bordeaux line-up except perhaps Montrose and Ducru and their QPR is in a different league.
MONTUS 2002 (EUR 10 so) is fruity and round and more supple than Bouscassé, whose frankness I prefer; 15.5/20. MONTUS Cuvée Prestige 1999 (EUR 18 so) showed dense and attractive fruit, “sweeter” than Bouscassé, with tar hints and a wood patina, well integrated but present; 16.5/20. MONTUS Cuvée Prestige (EUR 25 so) was tougher, more concentrated and full of matter with a similar "sweetness" and wood patina and far from ready; 17/20. Although I prefer the lesser sophistication of Bouscassé, these are fine wines.
I will deal with the Burgundies and one or two others in a separate thread.