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WTN: 1999 Barolo, Rutherford Red, Beringer Marston

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Brian K Miller

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WTN: 1999 Barolo, Rutherford Red, Beringer Marston

by Brian K Miller » Sun Nov 18, 2007 3:09 am

Our dinner gang (co-workers, ex-co-workers, friends) visited a Sacramento institution tonight-Paragary's. Paragary's pre-dates the restaurant explosion of the past ten years (although they themselves have participated in said explosion through a plethora of restaurant concepts) and I was very impressed-my lamb was tender and medium rare, and I liked the grilled raddiccio (sp?) and polenta quite a bit.

Our wines included:

1999 Fratelli Alessandria Monvigliero Barolo. Decanted for over an hour this afternoon, then recorked and poured directly at the restaurant. When I first opened this wine, it hit me with a blast of floral notes and sour cherry. Delicious and powerful on the nose. At the restaurant, this was lovely-not closed down at all, but it could probably go a ways. This is the second wine I've tried from this vineyard, and I am really liking them. (Mauro Sebaste was also really good in 2001) Note to oakaphobes-there is some oak here, and the winery is described as a "modern style" producer, although it seemed pretty well integrated and didn't dominate my palate too much. Tannins were well integrated for an adolescent Barolo, and the sour cherry fruit was accompanied by violets and a very nice hit of dominant savory notes and good acidity, enough to be refreshing to the palate. Can't remember what I paid for this, but I would buy again. 17 points.

2003 William Harrison "Rutherford Red" Decanted at the restaurant. The tiny winery's Bordeaux blend, this wine was quite nice tonight. The winery is located on the northeastern edge of Rutherford AVA, right near the corner of Zinfandel Lane and Silverado Trail. Raspberry and red currant fruit. Medium bodied, this is not a big jammy fruit bomb. Tannins are actually pretty well integrated, but still there. Happily, the oak is well integrated and not dominant at all (another vintage had more obvious vanilla). What I really enjoy about this winery's wines across the board -and I think it comes from the Cab Franc, is a distinct high toned "cedary" note. I'm not sure it is woodiness, per se, from the oak, but there is a distinctive note here that I really enjoy. 17.5 points with upside potential. Alas, less than 100 cases made, so all gone until they release their library store. The winemaker recommends 2010; think I will hold onto the other two bottles, to see what happens.

2002 Beringer "Marston Vineyard." A different animal entirely. From Spring Mountain above Saint Helena. Definitely blackberry, mocha, black currant fruit. Oak is more present than the William Harrison, but still not too dominant. Very smooth, with fine, fully integrated tannins. This is a much richer wine, which may reflect the vintage. A favorite of many people in our party. I like the cedary notes of the Rutherford Red more, but I wouldn't turn down another glass of this big boy. Probably drunk too soon before secondary flavors could appear, I would still rate this 16.5 with strong upside potential.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: 1999 Barolo, Rutherford Red, Beringer Marston

by Rahsaan » Sun Nov 18, 2007 3:24 am

Brian K Miller wrote:a Sacramento institution tonight-Paragary's...I was very impressed-my lamb was tender and medium rare, and I liked the grilled raddiccio (sp?) and polenta quite a bit.


Sounds a lot better than the dining options I unearthed while driving through Old Sacramento last month. All we could find was Fast Food, Bad Mexican, and a FauxCrab Shack.

The Old Wild West updated for the ThemeParked worst..

But, sounds like you had a fun dinner..
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Brian K Miller

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Re: WTN: 1999 Barolo, Rutherford Red, Beringer Marston

by Brian K Miller » Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:19 pm

Yeah, Old Sacramento is pretty much a tourist trap (albeit they have "preserved" some beautiful boom town 19th century buildings)

The new "hip" restaurants are especially concentrated in "Mid Town," immediately east of the Capital, with some nice places hidden amongst the less savory blocks of downtown proper.

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