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WTN: My first Cotes de Saint Mont, plus '05 Bdx satellite and CC

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Dale Williams

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WTN: My first Cotes de Saint Mont, plus '05 Bdx satellite and CC

by Dale Williams » Wed Dec 19, 2007 5:41 pm

So Sunday I was pooped after the big party and some snow shoveling, Betsy had a late afternoon meeting in city. Luckily, so many people brought food to the party (unexpectedly) I had never pulled out the leg of lamb I roasted Sat AM. So I warmed, made a red wine sauce from drippings, sliced, and served with leftover veggies when she got home. Wine was the 2005 Les Grands Marechaux (1er Cotes de Blaye). OK, if this is a hint of what low end 2005 Bordeaux can be I think I'm going to be happy. Mocha and kirsch on the nose, the fruit on the palate has a darker tone, cassis and black plum. The coffee and chocolate notes intensify with time. Tannins are present but ripe and easy, despite the ripeness and richness of the fruit there is some refreshing acidity. The oak is pretty obvious, if you are really oakaphobic don't bother with this one. Very nice wine for the appelation, in a quite "modern" style. Holds up well for 2 more nights. B++

Monday made a Batali recipe of parsnips and pancetta with pasta, I opened a 375 of the 2005 Felsina Chianti Classico. A nice refreshing Sangiovese, maybe a step behind the '04. Red and black cherry fruit, ripe, a little softer than some vintages. Good length for the level, but maybe could use a little zip. Still, quite good. Remaining glass does not do well overnight. B/B+

Tuesday Betsy made "Chinese Chicken" (shredded chicken is topped with a scallion, ginger,shoyu sauce and then drizzled with hot peanut oil). I saw a bottle from party that I had no clue about. I knew if the 2004 "Vignes Retrouvees" (Cotes de Saint Mont) went to cellar, I'd NEVER bring it back up (never having had a Cotes de Saint Mont, I'd never think of it as a match). So what the hell, give it a try, no (or extraordinarily low) expectations.
Hey, not so bad. Rather floral, kind of Gewurztraminer meets Roussanne. Pear fruit with an almost Italian bitter almond note, a little on the fat side but not flabby. Some lemon and wet slate notes with time. Not zippy enough for me to search for more, but far more interesting than I expected. I guessed south near the Rhone, turns out it's closer to Madiran, and the grapes are probably Arrufiac, Petit Courbu, Petit Manseng, and Gros Manseng (I confess to never having heard of first two). Went surprisingly well with the chicken. B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

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