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WTN: 02 Drouhin Les Clos, 89 Moulin Touchais, 00 Leflaive Volnay, 86 Arrosee

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Bill Spohn

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WTN: 02 Drouhin Les Clos, 89 Moulin Touchais, 00 Leflaive Volnay, 86 Arrosee

by Bill Spohn » Tue Jan 01, 2008 12:26 pm

Notes from a recent dinner tasting. Menu from various meals recently experienced by the hosts on a trip to Paris.

With petites quiches Lorraine, tartelettes au tomates a four gratinees, and croustades au pimentes rouge: Kir Royale – no notes needed except to say that just about everyone goes way overboard on the cassis. We didn’t.

With saumon fume, faucon tartare (Petrossian a Lafayette Gourmet)

2002 Drouhin Chablis Les Clos – clean ever so slightly waxy nose with pear and apricot notes, clean middle and excellent length – more like a Burgundy in weight.

With terrine de foie gras d’oie (Marche de la Rue Saxe)

1989 Moulin Touchais Coteaux de Layon – young for this wine, which I always enjoy with about 20 years of age. Excellent slightly sweet nose, great fruit, supple and long with superb balance. I much prefer this sort of wine, not too sweet, to pair with foie gras, to a sweeter Sauternes.

With potage aux champignons, des de foie gras (Café Constant)

2000 Olivier Leflaive Volnay Clos des Angles 1er Cru – light in colour with a very good fruit based nose , fresh, little tannin left, really pleasant middle weight wine that could be criticised only for a slight lack of mid palate fruit.

Magret de canard, legumes de saison, girolles (Jean-Pierre Frelet)

1986 Ch. L’Arrosee – we decided to put together a couple of right bank 86s to see what was happening with them. This one had sweeter fruit in the nose, but you had to dig for it as it wasn’t pouring out of the glass. It also had more depth to the nose, and more tannin, but high acidity gave an impression of austerity and leanness that was a bit off-putting. If you have it, leave it in the cellar and cross your fingers.

1986 Ch. La Dominique – definitely more forward with a nice Bordeaux fruit and oak nose, some tannin present, but not nearly as tough or hard as the Arrosee, medium length, and a rounder, more pleasant wine for drinking today. No rush on either of these.

With tarte aux pommes frangipane (Patisserie Francis Dossemont) – no wine

Fromages

2000 Abbe Rous Helyos Banyuls – 100% black Grenache finished at 16.5% alcohol. Sweet chocolate and cherry nose, tannin that indicates more age needed, but well balanced and not too sweet, it was a very nice accompaniment to the cheese, and a wine not that often seen here.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: 02 Drouhin Les Clos, 89 Moulin Touchais, 00 Leflaive Vo

by Rahsaan » Fri Jan 04, 2008 11:44 am

Bill Spohn wrote:1989 Moulin Touchais Coteaux de Layonyoung for this wine, which I always enjoy with about 20 years of age. Excellent slightly sweet nose, great fruit, supple and long with superb balance. I much prefer this sort of wine, not too sweet, to pair with foie gras, to a sweeter Sauternes..


So does that mean you think this needs another 1-2 years of age?

FWIW, while I'm sure the 88 will "survive" for quite a while, a bottle last year was quite dirty, loose, and potentially breaking up (I'm talking about the fruit here) and am not necessarily looking forward to the next bottles. A surprise in the making, I hope.
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Re: WTN: 02 Drouhin Les Clos, 89 Moulin Touchais, 00 Leflaive Vo

by Bill Spohn » Fri Jan 04, 2008 11:57 am

Rahsaan wrote:So does that mean you think this needs another 1-2 years of age?


It isn't that exact an art, and these wines tend to have very long plateaus. There is no rush on this one and it should still drink well in 2,4,6 years. If you had a bad experience with a 1988 it may have been a poor vintage (I don't think I've tasted it) or a badly treated bottle.
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Re: WTN: 02 Drouhin Les Clos, 89 Moulin Touchais, 00 Leflaive Vo

by Rahsaan » Fri Jan 04, 2008 12:06 pm

Bill Spohn wrote:It isn't that exact an art, and these wines tend to have very long plateaus. There is no rush on this one and it should still drink well in 2,4,6 years.


Oh yes, I didn't mean to imply that there was a precise optimal time for drinking. But I was just wondering what you were saying. You started off by implying that the wine was too young for your tastes, but then you said that you usually like to drink the wine at around 20 years of age, which is where it is now. So I was just trying to parse out the differences.

If you had a bad experience with a 1988 it may have been a poor vintage (I don't think I've tasted it) or a badly treated bottle.


1988 was probably not a 1989, but I don't think it was a poor vintage. I have had about half a dozen bottles of the 1988 from the same source, and I like it less and less each time. I'm guessing most of the bottle were sound, with the main difference being my tastes changing and being less impressed with what tastes like dirty and "unnoble" botrytis, along with that wicked funky acid.

I have only tasted a few other vintages of MT (from the 1950s and 60s), so I'm no expert, and I haven't been rushing to track them down. But, will try to keep an open mind if they do appear before me.
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Re: WTN: 02 Drouhin Les Clos, 89 Moulin Touchais, 00 Leflaive Vo

by Bill Spohn » Fri Jan 04, 2008 12:27 pm

Rahsaan wrote:Oh yes, I didn't mean to imply that there was a precise optimal time for drinking. But I was just wondering what you were saying. You started off by implying that the wine was too young for your tastes, but then you said that you usually like to drink the wine at around 20 years of age, which is where it is now. So I was just trying to parse out the differences.


Yes, I think it is hitting peak now and will hold a long time.

You don't see this wine a lot, or at least I don't!

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