WTN: Dante

Nino Negri 1999 Valtellina Inferno Mazer, $17
Superb. The nose is dominated by tar and black cherry with some earthy elements; with time in the glass, some dusty herbs emerge, enhancing things further. On the palate, there is black cherry with tar, earth, minerals and herbs, somewhat chewy texture with plenty of structure provided by tannins and acidity, yet also very good balance. Very enjoyable and an outstanding match with campanelle primavera. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, Inc.

Noussan 2004 Valle d’Aosta Pinot Noir Cuvée de la Côte, $19
Magnificent nose, with aromas of flowers, a variety of herbs, blackberry and even a little apple exploding from the glass. The palate follows, with bright blackberry fruit, lots of herbs and some earth and minerals. It’s hard for me to pinpoint what specific herbs I’m smelling and tasting, but it’s a unique mix and really enjoyable. Refreshing acidity, good structure and balance add to the appeal. Excellent match with a risotto made with leftover turkey, pumpkin and mushrooms. Two days later, it’s still outstanding. The aromas are wonderful, mixing flowers and herbs into something that almost smells sweet, though I say that only in the most positive sense of the word. The palate follows, totally dry yet with a mix of vibrant fruit, herbs and minerals that is delightful. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Antoniolo 1996 Gattinara, $22
There is a lot of moldy sediment outside of the cork; when pulled, the cork is soaked through. There is a little VA present, suggesting that maybe it has been oxidized, but it’s still pretty good and gets a little bit better with air. There is some black cherry, a slight touch of roses on the nose, and tarry scents and flavors, especially on the finish. A bit astringent due to ample acidity and a hefty dose of tannins, yet it’s still reasonably enjoyable and a decent match with homemade fried rice. Two days later, some VA remains at first but then it really smooths out, with more prominent tar and herbal notes making it a delight. Smooth with nice structure and acidity. Really terrific, now living up to its potential IMHO.

Hi Bruce,

Happy New Year to you.

There is a small Italian restaurant near where I live, whose owner's family is from Valtellina. She makes an effort to bring in wines from there. I tried the '99 Nino Negri Inferno Mazer a few years ago and it was fiercely tannic then and pretty tightly wound. It sounds like your bottle was much better. I had a glass last week at the same restaurant of the 2004 Nino Negri Inferno (not the Mazer bottle) and thought it was just OK. Very primary and grapey, with fairly soft structure.

Another bottle from the same restaurant was great, though. A 2001 Rainoldi Sassela. I will try to post a note on it.

Best,
Marc

Happy New Year to you, too, Marc.

From my very limited experience, many Nebbiolos from the so-called "lesser" appellations also need some age, albeit not as much as Baroli and Barbarescos. At any rate, it's always fun to try them even if the results are sometimes uneven. Though I must say my new region of interest in Italy is Val d'Aoste; I've had four or five wines from there over the past year that I've really enjoyed. Of course, selection is highly limited and usually only at Chambers Street but worth scarfing up when they appear, it seems to me.

Your small local Italian restauarant sounds intriguing; does the owner specialize in dishes from Lombardy, too?

The restaurant is more generalized Italian with emphasis on some NW ingredients. Mussels, clams, salmon, and halibut are usually available along with several pastas, soups, etc.

I will keep an eye out for the Valle d' Aoste wines.

Thanks,
Marc