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WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

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WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

by Jenise » Sun Jan 20, 2008 4:10 pm

:D

But I do go to tastings in my neighborhood, and this one was Oz Shiraz. Pretty interesting results. The six wines could easily be sorted into two equal piles: three of the wines were quite sweet, three were more savoury. 55 attendees whose tastes and experience level are all over the map voted for their top 3 wines, and though as usual every wine got at least one first place vote, one wine took first by a landslide unlike any I've ever seen before. It got 122 points, pulling votes from both the modernist (includes all the people who happily slurp Yellow Tail) and traditionalist camps, and putting the other five wines in a near dead heat for last place with an average of about just 40 points each (51, 39, 34, 34 and 32). From a group of voters this size that's a monstrous achievement.

The big winner:

2005 Amon-Ra Godolphin Parker called this a "beautiful marriage of power and elegance" and that's about right. Sweet, but less sweet than the two Two Hands entries, and remarkably silky with complex black and blue berry fruit. Though I would personally choose the three less-sweet wines to drink, I admired the finesse of this wine so much I gave it third place. Group first.

The rest:

2002 Two Hands Deer in the Headlights Sweet (second sweetest of the bunch) and rich with cassis and maple syrup. Has a glycerin mouthfeel, and is lively in spite of its size with a stone-fruit kind of tang like what comes from apricot and nectarine. Group second, my fifth.

2003 Penfolds St. Henri Starchy at first with salt and plain brown bag flavors. Those pulled back somewhat over time to show meaty tones with sage and blackberry. Great depth. I suspect that with a few more hours I could give this my first place vote, but for now I gave it fourth. Group third, a heartening result as I've been exposing these tasters to more and more traditionally styled wines. This proves, I hope, that I'm getting somewhere.

The two D'Arenberg wines were my 1st and 2nd place wines, and they tied for the group's 4th. 2002 D'Arenberg Dead Arm: Mint, salt, spice, dried basil, black currant. Subtly powerful. 2002 D'Arenberg Laughing Magpie: like a rustic version of the Dead arm with grippier tannins and an espresso finish.

In last place, the 2001 Two Hands Bella's Garden was dark and impenetrable, with heavy, jammy black fruit and the least acidity of all the wines. The brooding mid-palate led into a strong black licorice note in the finish. Personally, I detested it.
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Re: WTN: I don't take part in the annual WS Top 100 selection!!

by David M. Bueker » Sun Jan 20, 2008 4:39 pm

There are some aussie Shiraz I can admire even if I don't like them. Amon-Ra comes to mind when I try to think of some.

I actually buy the d'Arenberg Dead Arm every once in a while. I like it.
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Re: WTN: I don't take part in the annual WS Top 100 selection!!

by Jenise » Sun Jan 20, 2008 5:07 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:There are some aussie Shiraz I can admire even if I don't like them. Amon-Ra comes to mind when I try to think of some.

I actually buy the d'Arenberg Dead Arm every once in a while. I like it.


Then you can safely presume you'd detest the Bella's Garden. :) I too have always liked Dead Arm, and I was glad to get reaquainted with it for this tasting. I did the buying, and I got amazing prices--$37 for the Dead Arm and $35 for the Amon Ra, for instance.
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Re: WTN: I don't take part in the annual WS Top 100 selection!!

by David M. Bueker » Sun Jan 20, 2008 5:12 pm

Jenise wrote:
Then you can safely presume you'd detest the Bella's Garden. :)


I've had a number of Two Hands wines & never found one to my liking.
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Re: WTN: I don't take part in the annual WS Top 100 selection!!

by Jason Hagen » Sun Jan 20, 2008 5:36 pm

Thanks for the notes. Not the biggest fan Aussie wines ... but in reality I think there are so many great wines and amazing values. And many age quite nicely. Well and Grange is by far in my top 20 wines.

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Re: WTN: I don't take part in the annual WS Top 100 selection!!

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sun Jan 20, 2008 11:42 pm

Interesting tasting there Jenise. I have not tasted your Amon-Ra but from your description, think it would do well in most of the tastings I go to (grin). These Albertans here are up for this style of wine too!
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Re: WTN: I don't take part in the annual WS Top 100 selection!!

by Sue Courtney » Mon Jan 21, 2008 12:31 am

Jenise wrote:But I do go to tastings in my neighborhood, and this one was Oz Shiraz. Pretty interesting results.

How many wines do Two Hands produce? I had one last Wednesday night - the Max's Garden 2005 from Heathcote in Victoria. Not as 'sweet' as some of the South Australian Two Hands that I've tried. Good underlying acidity and loads of peppery spice. Pretty much my Wine of the Night.

Do you think the Amon-Ra was the big winner because it was so much younger than the others?
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Re: WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

by Brian K Miller » Mon Jan 21, 2008 1:12 am

Thanks for the notes, Jenise, I've kinda liked the D'Arenberg wines I've tried, and I picked up a Dead Arm on a whim. I'm also happy the St Henry's is "Savory"-I have a 2002, so maybe the extra year of bottle age will help it show well.
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Re: WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

by James Dietz » Mon Jan 21, 2008 1:19 am

I have had the 2005 Amon-Ra a couple of times, once when it was about a year in bottle and then the other night. It has been very good, very good both times, though it is in a bit of a down phase now compared to the first time I had it. I also had the 2001 Amon-Ra along with the '05, and it was just outstanding. I don't drink much Aussie wines, but I have begun buying this one for its balance and elegance.
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Re: WTN: I don't take part in the annual WS Top 100 selection!!

by Jenise » Mon Jan 21, 2008 12:46 pm

Sue Courtney wrote:
Jenise wrote:But I do go to tastings in my neighborhood, and this one was Oz Shiraz. Pretty interesting results.

How many wines do Two Hands produce? I had one last Wednesday night - the Max's Garden 2005 from Heathcote in Victoria. Not as 'sweet' as some of the South Australian Two Hands that I've tried. Good underlying acidity and loads of peppery spice. Pretty much my Wine of the Night.

Do you think the Amon-Ra was the big winner because it was so much younger than the others?


Interesting question, Sue--had to think that through once you asked. But I'd say not. I didn't mention that I Andouze-d the Amon-Ra for 12 hours prior to the tasting, where I just splash decanted-and-returned-to-bottle the others (of which the St. Henri could have used more time) an hour or so in advance. Concerned about it's youth, I wanted to take the baby fat off the Amon-Ra and even the playing field a little--a guinea-pigged bottle the day before showed substantially more complexity. I think it won because 1) the aforementioned elegance, that silkiness was just so seductive and 2) it was probably the most different of the six, and in a good way. It really stood out: the Yellow Tail drinkers who think "smooth" and "sweet" are good wine words were all over it, the sophisticates with a taste for plush and modern loved it, and even traditionalists like me went "wow!".

Haven't had the Max's. Quite liked a Bad Impersonator a few years ago that was sweet and savoury at the same time, quite peppery and with some racy acids--so much so that the fat on these two was quite the surprise to me. But they're getting more points now, aren't they? (cough cough)
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Re: WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

by Graeme Gee » Mon Jan 21, 2008 6:10 pm

Er, Jenise, what's on the label of this wine? In Austalia at least, Amon-Ra and Godolphin are two different wines, both made by Ben Glaetzer. Amon-Ra is the all-shiraz effort, while Godolphin is a Shiraz-Cabernet blend (which has changed it's name for the 2006-and-beyond vintagedue to some copyright problem).
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Re: WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

by Jenise » Tue Jan 22, 2008 1:25 pm

Graeme Gee wrote:Er, Jenise, what's on the label of this wine? In Austalia at least, Amon-Ra and Godolphin are two different wines, both made by Ben Glaetzer. Amon-Ra is the all-shiraz effort, while Godolphin is a Shiraz-Cabernet blend (which has changed it's name for the 2006-and-beyond vintagedue to some copyright problem).
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Here, all Ben Glaetzer's wines are called Amon-Ra, which results confusingly in there also being an Amon-Ra Amon-Ra, but Amon-Ra they all are. The front label also includes "by Ben Glaetzer"--rather an unusual thing in our world, to see the winemaker name on the front label of a non-eponymously named wine. Otherwise I'm sure we're talking about the same wine, I believe this has 20% cabernet.
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Re: WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

by Mike Pollard » Wed Jan 23, 2008 5:58 pm

Thanks for the notes Jenise.

Pity the St Henri was not 2002, you would have changed even more minds. Any chance that the 2003 was a faulty bottle? Seems like time allowed some unusual (unpleasant?) aromas to blow off. Anything that smells like paper bag always worries me because it does not sound like St Henri and not like the one bottle I sampled last year before putting the rest of my annual 6-pack away for a long rest.

Re the Glaetzer. I’m not sure that the Shiraz and Shiraz/Cab blends are both called Amon Ra here in the USA, but then these are not wines that I buy. Parker’s tasting notes lists the two different names and the varieties (Amon Ra (Shiraz) and Godolphin (Shiraz/Cab) but I’m not sure where he sources his bottles from.

I did taste the 2005 Amon Ra (Shiraz) on a recent visit to Australia; Dec 07. It was the first wine stuck under my nose (blinded) and while it was obvious that it was a big, high quality Barossan I could not identify the wine. Over the following weeks we got through a bunch of Aussies with the standouts being a 1991 McWilliams (O’Shea) Hunter Shiraz, 1996 Penfolds Bin 389, and Trevor Jones’ 2005 Wild Witch Shiraz. The Wild Witch was something else. I’ve only had few vintages of this wine (2005, 2004, 2001) but it really does ring my chimes.

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Re: WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

by Jenise » Wed Jan 23, 2008 7:59 pm

Mike Pollard wrote:Pity the St Henri was not 2002, you would have changed even more minds. Any chance that the 2003 was a faulty bottle? Seems like time allowed some unusual (unpleasant?) aromas to blow off. Anything that smells like paper bag always worries me because it does not sound like St Henri and not like the one bottle I sampled last year before putting the rest of my annual 6-pack away for a long rest.


Mike, that brown bag thing is a note I often (or at least, this is not the first time, or even the second) get in syrah (and some cab) noses--I've not thought of it as a flaw, more as an awkward teenager kind of thing. As long as there's sufficient fruit my experience is that it integrates or dissipates with bottle age.

Re the Glaetzer. I’m not sure that the Shiraz and Shiraz/Cab blends are both called Amon Ra here in the USA, but then these are not wines that I buy.


That's how it was marketed by Garagiste, from whom I purchased it. And when Graeme questioned it, I went to the internet to confirm what I thought I knew. Nearly all U.S. sources refer to it as I did, like this example from Sam's in Chicago:

http://www.samswine.com/amonra-quotgodolphinquot-shirazcabernet-sauvignon-barossa-range-2005-p-10043591.html

I did taste the 2005 Amon Ra (Shiraz) on a recent visit to Australia; Dec 07. It was the first wine stuck under my nose (blinded) and while it was obvious that it was a big, high quality Barossan I could not identify the wine. Over the following weeks we got through a bunch of Aussies with the standouts being a 1991 McWilliams (O’Shea) Hunter Shiraz, 1996 Penfolds Bin 389, and Trevor Jones’ 2005 Wild Witch Shiraz. The Wild Witch was something else. I’ve only had few vintages of this wine (2005, 2004, 2001) but it really does ring my chimes.


I've not had the pleasure of most of the wines that you mention, but I do have the '96 389 in my cellar. I had waited patiently before trying a first bottle within the last year. I'm interested that you list it as a standout of your trip--I should dig out my TN if I posted one, but offhand I recall it being surprisingly herbaceous. An underripe kind of herbaceousness, nothing one would associate with typical wine flaws. Maybe I should open another?
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Re: WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

by Mike Pollard » Wed Jan 23, 2008 8:30 pm

Jenise wrote:
Mike Pollard wrote:Re the Glaetzer. I’m not sure that the Shiraz and Shiraz/Cab blends are both called Amon Ra here in the USA, but then these are not wines that I buy.


That's how it was marketed by Garagiste, from whom I purchased it. And when Graeme questioned it, I went to the internet to confirm what I thought I knew. Nearly all U.S. sources refer to it as I did, like this example from Sam's in Chicago:

http://www.samswine.com/amonra-quotgodolphinquot-shirazcabernet-sauvignon-barossa-range-2005-p-10043591.html


Its certainly strange that they call it the Amon-Ra "Godolphin" Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon because its Godolphin by Glaetzer on the actual bottle label on Sam’s website and it has the Egyptian ankh above the name. The AMON-Ra has the eye of Horus on the label.

The labeling is discussed on the Glaetzer web site where they talk about the new labeling that will have the Gololphin called the Anaperenna Shiraz Cabernet from 2006. The label will keep the Egyptian ankh symbol.

Also the US distributors (Epicurean Wines) call it the GODOLPHIN by Ben Glaetzer.

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Re: WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

by Jenise » Wed Jan 23, 2008 8:57 pm

Mike Pollard wrote:Also the US distributors (Epicurean Wines) call it the GODOLPHIN by Ben Glaetzer.

Mike


True enough. But check out Winesearcher, for instance. Type in Godolphin only specifying availability in the USA, and up pop five entries of which four list it as Amon-Ra Godolphin. Only one calls it Godolphin alone. That's what I meant by "nearly all".

Anyway, doesn't really matter, does it? I have no idea what Mr. Glaetzer's intentions are, I only know what I bought and what I found when checking the internet last week when I was digging for price comparisons etc for the handouts at this tasting.
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Re: WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

by James Dietz » Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:08 pm

I'm unclear, too, Jenise..Did you have the Amon-Ra or the Godolphin?? I've not had the latter, but have had the A-R various times So my comments above are for the wine that looks like this
amon ra.jpg
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Re: WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

by Jenise » Thu Jan 24, 2008 1:55 pm

Jim, no, I had the Godolphin.
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Re: WTN: Six Oz Wines in which Amon-Ra Cleans House

by James Dietz » Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:01 pm

Got it!!! Well.. I hope you'll get a chance to try the Amon-Ra one day.. Maybe you will like it even more than the Godophin.
Cheers, Jim

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