Faugères AOC “Réserve La Maison Jaune” 2001 – J.M. Alquier – Alc.13.5% (Approx. € 18 for recent vintage – no 2005).
This wine is made from Syrah (50%), Grenache and Mourvèdre and 30% sees some 12 months in new wood.
I usually associate the wines from Languedoc/Roussillon with robust sometimes rustic power, southern fruit, “garrigue” and spice but not with elegance. This estate is an exception.
C: Quite deep, but less so than many in the region, and still quite youthful.
N: Dark fruit with a lot of sour cherry, a slightly metallic ivy tang and discreet spice.
P: The aromas, flavours and style have something in common with northern Rhône and even Burgundy, particularly their fresh sour cherry and ivy notes and elegant shape in the mouth, but there is a greater underlying warmth and body with tar hints being contributed by the other two grape varieties and the more southerly location. This wine has some power but is not a blockbuster like many in Languedoc and shows a classical mouth-shape and length. The new wood ageing is perfectly integrated with only an attractive background hint of cigar box. A very good wine and perfect with last night’s duck and Brussels sprouts; 16.5/20 and may still improve for two or three years.
I always enjoy the wines of this estate. As well as a basic cuvée, there is a third red cuvée, Les Bastides, with a higher proportion of Syrah which is slightly more dense but equally elegant and an excellent aromatic white. I have recently finished my Maisons Jaunes and Bastides from 1995,1996 and 1997. From memory the 1996 were somewhat lighter, more acid and even more elegant, the 1995 more austere and structured and the 1997 more ingratiating. I think that this 2001 synthesizes the qualities of the previous three and is the most complete.
WARNING: Confusingly, there now appear to be two Alquier estates at Faugères following a split. This one, Jean-Michel, is the one I know. The other is Gilbert.