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WTN: Holiday Wines

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David Lole

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WTN: Holiday Wines

by David Lole » Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:28 am

A week's fishing down the coast with the folks was not too shabby, as were all the Aussie wines I plucked from the cellar.

Tyrrell's Vat 1 Semillon 1992- Sensational - still a bright light gold colour - combines an eerie youthfulness (citrussy, crisp and indelible acidity) with all the hallmarks of top-notch bottle-aged Hunter Sems - honey, toast, lemon butter, petrolly notes, a lovely nuttiness and that somewhat difficult to describe, grassy/hay/herb/flinty element. Seamless, long and thoroughly enjoyable. 94 points and, if this bottle was representative, will go for at least 5, possibly, 10 years.

Leo Buring Leonay Watervale Riesling 2002 - bought a case of this at release and is just starting to shine. Already picking up some toasty/petrolly notes in the bouquet but the classical lime/orange blossom/musky/minerally varietal/regional characters are there in spades. The palate is a joy to behold, harbouring a wealth of pristine fruit and integrated natural, minerally acidity, followed by a finish to die for. Almost certainly will be an all-time great over the next decade or more, but very approachable now, especially if you like 'em crisp and somewhat linear. 94+ points. Screwcap.

Richmond Grove Limited Release Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 - FWII, looked awfully youthful in the glass revealing a deep ruby colour with only minmal bricking in the edges. Impressive bouquet of violets, blackcurrants, dark chocolate, cedar, dried herbs and a hint of road tar. The palate remains true to region and variety, of medium weight, is still firm, perhaps a smidge chunky/foursquare, but laden with enough fruit and cedar oak (aka the nose) to burn for a while yet, excellent counterbalancing acidity and finishes with quite reasonable persistence. Drink now or over the next 5-8 years. Great value for the meagre bucks I forked out for this at release. 90 points.

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2001 - anther cracker of a Riesling and although not up to the lofty standard of the great 2002 vintage, a beautiful example all the same. This wine would be best descibed as a "dead ringer" for the Leo Buring above. 93 points and plenty of time up its sleeve. Screwcap.

Tyrrell's Vat 1 Semillon 1996 - Another Outstanding/Exceptional example of unoaked Hunter Semillon and like its older sibling, almost perfect to my liking. Just lighter in colour and a little less deveoped in nuance, but so vibrant and zingy to the nose and in the mouth. Rapier-like acidity will keep this beauty in great shape for years and years to come. If anything, I'd rate this a fraction higher than the otherwordly '92 - 95 points

Tollana TR222 Cabernet Sauvignon 1998 - Almost forgotten in a deeply buried case in the cellar, I'm so glad to report this $12 bottle of red is holding extremely well, and like the 1998 Richmond Grove, provided seriously good drinking. Didn't take a note on this one but if you have any there's no need for this to be drunk imminently. I'd rate it about the same as the Richmond Grove - 90 points.

Pikes Riesling 2002 - This was the only wine that was slightly below expectation and may have peaked. The initial burst from the glass of oily/petrolly scents gave way to honey and citrus notes followed by an almost excellent palate, albeit somewhat broader than the Leo Buring/Grosset and without the same length. With an hour or more of air, a degree of degradation with some oxidation on both nose and palate became evident. Checking the back label of the bottle, the reco was to consume this within 5-8 years from vintage, so I think the Pike's got it nigh spot on. 88- points. FWIW, this was an absolute belter on release. Screwcap.

Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Vineyard Chardonnay 2005 - A recent purchase (on pure spec) just prior to this trip. This relatively powerful Chardonnay delivered the goods upfront with plenty of white peach, grilled nuts and creamy new oak/barrel ferment character. The palate packs some punch but alas was just a tad short for me with the alcohol starting to poke out in the finish. The wine has done just about everything it can, IMHO. For 50 bucks you can find a lot better elsewhere, although it still merits a score in the higher eighties. Drink now. Screwcap.

Seppelt Dorrien Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 - Another quite brilliant example of Barossa Cabernet from the old vines now stripped of their identity. This vintage is marked by "sweet" plum and "crunchy" black fruits with an extra degree of dark chocolate I rarely see in this label. The peculiar Dorrien "cool climate" streak of Provencal herbs and a little capsicum, something you're more likely to be find in a Coonawarra Cabernet, is absent in this bottle/vintage. Lovely aromatics, a gorgeous rounded mouthfeel, low acidity and fine, resolved lacy tannins found in the lengthy, authoritative finish merit a final score of 92 points. Drink any time over the next several years.
Cheers,

David
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: Holiday Wines

by Jenise » Thu Feb 21, 2008 5:16 pm

You do good holidays! The Tyrells--you remind me that I meant to go back to a particular shop in Vancouver and buy more of the one recent vintage Tyrells Sem I bought there, and I'm sure it's now too late. Canadian friends had introduced me to these wines with some mid-90's vintages, and they're just stunning. A Vat 47, I think it was, chardonnay had also recently turned my head. I rarely see these wines in the U.S. (importers seem to believe that if it's not Barossa or McClaren Vale, it doesn't sell) but I would also find it completely understandable if there were none leftover for export. They're that good.

Nice to read the note on the Seppelt Dorrien, a wine we've discussed our mutual affection for. What a shame that it's lost forever.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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