WTN: Heitz and a Question-Classic Napa-Any Left?

Used a vacation day and went for yet another Napa ride. I stopped at Sequoia Grove and enjoyed, yet again, their 2004 Stagecoach Syrah (earthy and savory and peppery with good black fruit) and the 2004 Reserve Cab, which is in its "mouthful of blackberries" stage (but yum).

What really impressed me today, though was Heitz. They were pouring a nice lineup:

2006 Chardonnay. didn't even know they made a Chard! This really impressed me, and I'm not a big fan of the Chardonnay grape. The purity of fruit was very evident-lemon zest, grapefruit, pineapple. Not "tropical" at all, just clean and pure and lovely. Oak? It was there, but as a complement, a hint, not the dominant butteryness. You know what else -they are charging $20 for this!

2003 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Good, solid balanced Napa Cab. Oak is definitely there, but not diminant. The American oak (one year) is "unique."

1998 Trailside Cabernet Sauvignon. I know the usual suspects say 1998 was a lousy year, and I've had my share of raw bell pepper, thin. acidic wines, but this was absolutely lovely. Sure, there is the freshness and herbalness of a cool year, but there is plenty of Rutherford blackberry fruit. Despite the 2-1/2 years in oak barrels (and a year in American oak tanks), this does not taste particularly oaky at all! Some excellent earthy underpinnings. This drinking so well right now that I would find it difficult to wait, but I'm wondering if it will become even more complex and earthy over time? Martha's Vineyard may be the best Heitz offers, but I really liked this wine a lot!

2005 Ink Grade Port I don't normally like many American ports, but I actually liked this quite a bit! For one thing, it's made with Portugese-native grapes, so no "zinfandel" or "Merlot" ports (bleh).

I really like Heitz. There is a charming older German gentleman who is the epitome of graciousness without being cloying or overly commercial-he knows his job. There is always a friendly dog (a Border Collie or a Min Pin) and I simply like the feeling of the place. While new to wine, I can stiull see this as a classic place.

So...my question is...what are your favorite "classic" Napa wineries that have somehow kept to the founding spirit, even if they are owned by evil out-of-town conglomerates (or remain family owned).

[David M. Bueker]

Montelena

Montelena

One of first I though of. Maybe Dunn, Mayacamas. Also liked Chappelet and Albini, though basing those on one or two wines.

Does Ridge count?

Does Ridge count?

Besides Santa Cruz, I know I've had Sonoma and Lodi bottlings, but no Napa. But they may have done.

Ridge? No, they're not Napa.
I've never visited Heitz, for no particular reason - in fact I've only done a couple of passes through the Napa Valley. I tend to be a RRV/Dry Creek bum.
I did go up Montebello Road last Saturday and visit Ridge. The view is simply spectacular - I wish I had gone up there half a century ago in Dad's old '49 Packard. The trees in bloom back then would have been amazing.
I like Heitz wines, though they're generally at or above my price limits. Just like Ridge.

I guess you could sign me John The Cheap.

Montelena, certainly. Corison would be another name I'd put forth. Dunn is another, though in a different vein. I haven't had any Clos du Val for a while, but last I checked they were still manning the bastions. And what about Spottswoode, Diamond Creek and Stag's Leap WC (at least, until their recent sale)? I just don't drink enough recent release CalCabs to know what's what these days...

Mark Lipton

Claasic Napa that hasn't sold out?

MONTELENA.

'Nuff said.

-Paul W.

I'll join the love-in for Montelena. Although I swallow hard at the price.
And I'll add one more that usually flies WELL below the radar but has given me much enjoyment over 20 years - and still does (at under $100 Cdn). Cain Five - still (for me) the best of the ill-named Meritage wines.

Absolutely, Montelena Estate

Montelena for sure but how about BV?

if you mean the Latour...sure....

All this right after I asked to be dropped from the Montelena mailing list. $125 a bottle for the Estate Cabernet is just too much for me.

I'm another fan of Cain Five and have some somewhere around that is probably ready for opening and pouring.

Montelena for sure but how about BV?

I stopped buying the BV Georges de Latour in mid-80's - it went seriously downhill (IIRC last good vintage for me was 1986) - that's when I switched to cain Five.

Then you missed out on a beautiful '94 BV Georges de Latour. Thanks to a generous Cab and Bordeaux collector, we sampled a dozen top California Cabernets in 2004 and I thought the Georges de Latour was the best of all.

[David M. Bueker]

I bought the '93 and '94 BV GdL & loved them both. Great wines. The price got out of hand after that.

Iprice got out of hand after that.

And the TCA!

I have one bottle left of the '94 (and the '88 and '60) GdlT. I also have one bottle of the '98. I had tasted it and not thought it worth its $70 pricetag, but bought when it was offered at $35. Of course right after that the TCA problem came out. I should just open the damn thing. I also had several '97-'00 Rutherfords or Tapestrys- my "corked" rate (though corks not to blame) about 40% for those. I'm sure all affected to a degree, but that's what I can detect.

But even with the '94 (which I like) I thought they moved a bit away from "classic Napa" as a style.

[Robin Garr]

So...my question is...what are your favorite "classic" Napa wineries that have somehow kept to the founding spirit, even if they are owned by evil out-of-town conglomerates (or remain family owned).

Another small-production Napa Cab that remains a favorite for me is Rocca.

Does it have to be Napa? Spread the doors just a little wider to incorporate Sonoma and you add a few more obvious candidates. I remain smitten, for example, by Laurel Glen.

I have one bottle of Laurel Glen 2000. Hope it's good!

I would definitely lump Clos du Val and older (pre-1999, I havent tasted anything current) Spottswoode in that group. But Chateau Montelena is still the pinnacle for my taste in Cali Cab and Mount Eden Estate (though Santa Cruz) isn't too far behind for 1/5 the price. I'm dying to track down older Mayacamas.

Brian,

I also love dropping in on Heitz. They are usually very friendly and always have bottles that are not in the tasting opened for tasting (e.g. Martha's Vineyard). Many a days I would drop in and taste like 10 bottles. I love their trailside and their Martha's and the small tasting building is just perfect for me!! I also like Cardinal, thinking that my house should look exactly like that...... V. Sattui is always good for a snack.

One of my favourites though is up in Sping Mountain and that is Terra Valentine. It has a great tasting room looking over the mountains and then further up Pride is also very nice.

Robin

I stopped in on Rocca's tasting room in the city and absolutely loved their Syrah a few years ago (as well as their cabs). This was before Celia started makeing Scarecrow. Loved her stuff and the owners are nice people.

Michael: Maybe this makes me a total yuppie (although way underfunded :/) but I thought Cardinale was beautiful, too. Posh, but not bombastic or glitzy.

Note that I also love walk in through the tank room and taste at a board over two barrels kind of places, too, (Goosecross east of Yountville rocks, and their 2003 Howell Mountain Cab is developing evry very nicely, I would note) but I can appreciate a place like Cardinale. They don't score very high by the unsual suspects, I note.

Most city planners are wannabe architects, anyway

Bryan,

Everytime I walk into Cardinal, I feel like I'm walking into a house that I could live in....i.e. mine if I could afford the accrutriments. also budget constrained here...

The colours are inviting and furniture is comfortable urbanish. Now if only my front driveway was 300 yards long and my backyard overlooked 300 acres of prime vineyards....... still we can dream.

I agree on the smaller sites for tasting too, they feel closer to the stuff... like Charbay, where you taste almost in the family backyard, until they had their tasting room... I mean a real backyard, not like Cakebread's backyard, which is nice too.

Mike

Absolutely Montelena! Took delivery on my 2005 Estate Zin just this morning.

-Paul W.