WTN: Montus 1994; a mature Madiran.

Château Montus – AOC Madiran - 1994 - Alain Brumont – Alc. 12.5% (€ 16.52 for 2005) – the basic cuvée.

I am now breaking into a pile of 10+ year old wines and uncovered this one. Thinking of my recent negative experiences with oaky young Bordeaux, I am quite sure that I would not enjoy the Montus 2005 at present, but after nearly 14 years this 1994, like the basic and VV Bouscassé 1997, is now in a very nice place.

C: It has lost its youthful blackness but is still a fine deep red.
P: Dark red fruit, plum, with hints of wet leather.
N: Powerful and generously mouth-filling with deep savoury fruit, a nice leathery Madiran tang, well resolved structure, good length and a certain suave and faintly sweet patina. This is more civilized and less rugged than the Bouscassé 1997 and Germaine preferred it. I love them both in their different ways; 16.5/20.

Alain Brumont’s website is under construction and I am short of information on varietal make-up and oak ageing of this cuvée. The Montus/Bouscassé estate consists of 110 hectares of red varieties – 65% Tannat, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet franc and 5% Fer servadou – and 30 hectares of white varieties – 50% Courbu, 40% Petit manseng and 10% Gros manseng.

Have not had the 1994. Did enjoy both the 96 & 97. Have tasted the 1995 on multiple times. Regardless of what one thinks of the oak, that wine is still years away from peaking in my opinion.

Tim wrote happily.....after nearly 14 years this 1994, like the basic and VV Bouscassé 1997, is now in a very nice place.

Thanks for the note Tim. Wasn`t Otto worried about new oak on the recent vintages.

Wasn`t Otto worried about new oak on the recent vintages.

This one has definitely seen new oak but by now it is very nicely integrated for me, though I wouldn't guarantee that Otto would like it. According to one of my reference books, Brumont uses 600 litre barrels which should reduce the exposure to oak flavours. A trade tasting in the autumn showed Montus basic and Prestige and Bouscassé basic and VV in both 1999 and 2002 vintages; I noted slightly downwards the Montus for their more perceptible oak at that stage and also chocolate notes on Bouscassé VV 02. Let us see if Otto reacts.

Let us see if Otto reacts. Very good Tim. By the way, did you know a Belgian is running a team in this years Iditarod.

Iditarod.

Thanks for teaching me a new name, Bob. A rapid Google tells me that it is a major sled race. I have a vague memory of a Belgian news clip which may have been about this. I doubt if there is much sled racing in Belgium. There used to be some winter sports in the Ardennes but in recent winters there has been very little snow.

Have tasted the 1995 on multiple times. Regardless of what one thinks of the oak, that wine is still years away from peaking in my opinion.

Agreed. I was thinking longer decant would help, but a few more years in the cellar is probably the right way to go.

1995 Chateau Montus Madiran Gamy funk, brambly berries, nuts, clean leather, tobacco leaf, green pepper, chestnuts and roasted red fruits make up a decidedly pleasant, old-world kind of nose. In the mouth, however, it feels rustic and a bit rough-hewn. It is dark-fruited, with a cool acidic crunch that grows throughout the mid-palate. It is very dry and somewhat austere around the edges. It warms up and rounds out a bit with aggressive swirling, but probably needs a longer decant than we were able to provide. (Nov 2007)

-Michael

Wasn`t Otto worried about new oak on the recent vintages.

This one has definitely seen new oak but by now it is very nicely integrated for me, though I wouldn't guarantee that Otto would like it. According to one of my reference books, Brumont uses 600 litre barrels which should reduce the exposure to oak flavours. A trade tasting in the autumn showed Montus basic and Prestige and Bouscassé basic and VV in both 1999 and 2002 vintages; I noted slightly downwards the Montus for their more perceptible oak at that stage and also chocolate notes on Bouscassé VV 02. Let us see if Otto reacts.

IIRC, I haven't tasted the '94, but '95-> and some older of Bouscassé. I do find the Montus more oaky generally speaking than Bouscassé, but of the basic Montus rather than the Cuvée Prestige, it has also begun to integrate in the mid-'90's examples I've had. It's hard to react, though, when I haven't tasted the wine in question...

600l barrels? That's new to me - I was under the impression that barriques were used?

-O

Château Montus – AOC Madiran - 1994 - Alain Brumont – Alc. 12.5% (€ 16.52 for 2005) – the basic cuvée.

Alain Brumont’s website is under construction and I am short of information on varietal make-up and oak ageing of this cuvée. The Montus/Bouscassé estate consists of 110 hectares of red varieties – 65% Tannat, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet franc and 5% Fer servadou – and 30 hectares of white varieties – 50% Courbu, 40% Petit manseng and 10% Gros manseng.

Please don't rely on this because it comes from notes for the reds that I did not date or check against other sources but hopefully it gives a some idea of grapes and oak use. Apparently none are filtered.

Bouscasse: the basic wine is/was about 2/3rds Tannat with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and aged in older wood.
The VV is/was 100% Tannat in 100% new wood.
More recently Argile Rouge with the same cepage as the basic. I have no note on the oak treatment for this wine.

Montus: the basic wine is/was 80% Tannat, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and the remainder Fer Servadou and aged in 50% new oak.
The Cuvee Prestige is 100% Tannat like the Bouscasse and 100% new oak with minimal racking [although that might have changed] and no fining
More recently a super-cuvee called La Tyre from 2000.

This news is going to surprise a few people here. The `01 Bouscasse was one of the most popular wines served at a French tasting downtown tonight. There were 30 participants and 7 red wines.
The Rouliere Cab Franc (Loire) I posted on was a close second, a Cuvee De Vatican CdP was the next one liked by a few. I thought this `05 was way too soft!

This news is going to surprise a few people here. The `01 Bouscasse was one of the most popular wines served at a French tasting downtown tonight. There were 30 participants and 7 red wines.
The Rouliere Cab Franc (Loire) I posted on was a close second, a Cuvee De Vatican CdP was the next one liked by a few. I thought this `05 was way too soft!

That does indeed surprise me, Bob; especially since, before its 7th birthday, this wine is still quite young for Bouscassé. I haven't tasted 01 so I don't know whether it is unusually forward. What sort of audience was it? If it consisted of seasoned lovers of French wine, this preference is more understandable.

In actual fact Tim, many there were rookies!! I think quite a few were learn to learn, some had not even tasted champagne before.
I found this `01 to be quite young, would leave another 3 yrs.
How about that Rouliere Cab Franc? Flew off the shelf. Again, young wine drinkers impressed!!

In actual fact Tim, many there were rookies!! I think quite a few were learn to learn, some had not even tasted champagne before.

Maybe that's the answer. Too new to wine for their taste to have been corrupted by jammy oak juice.

I must look for that Roulerie Cabfranc. They also make a very pretty Chenin.

Chenin, really? That is on the shelf downtown too Tim!!

In actual fact Tim, many there were rookies!! I think quite a few were learn to learn, some had not even tasted champagne before.

Maybe that's the answer. Too new to wine for their taste to have been corrupted by jammy oak juice.
I must look for that Roulerie Cabfranc. They also make a very pretty Chenin.

As I think you are suggesting, Chateau de la Roulerie, part of the original Bernard Germain [and sons Thierry and Philippe] empire, along with the Chateaux Guimoniere, Varennes and Fesles with the winemaking based at the latter] is better known for its Chenin, particularly the Chaume, than its Cabernet Franc [Anjou Rouge] wines although the latter seems to have received some good reviews alongside the straight Anjou Blanc too. There is also a Roulerie Anjou Rose made from Gamay and Grolleau.

IIRC elder brother Thierry is the one who has been pushing the boundaries in red winemaking in the Loire with his cuvees Terres Chaudes and Marginale at his Domaine des Roches Neuves, alongside his Saumur Blanc; Insolite.

However I have seen a recent report that he has recently changed his red wine making philosophy and has moved away from concentrated, very ripe wines in new oak and is now concentrating on the quality of the fruit and looking for a lighter purer style.
Apparently he is no longer using new oak barrels for his Marginale.

It will be interesting to experience the difference since we will be tasting 2 of the Roulerie, all of the Roches Neuves, and one of the Fesles wines next month.

IIRC elder brother Thierry is the one who has been pushing the boundaries in red winemaking in the Loire with his cuvees Terres Chaudes and Marginale at his Domaine des Roches Neuves, alongside his Saumur Blanc; Insolite.

However I have seen a recent report that he has recently changed his red wine making philosophy and has moved away from concentrated, very ripe wines in new oak and is now concentrating on the quality of the fruit and looking for a lighter purer style.
Apparently he is no longer using new oak barrels for his Marginale.

It will be interesting to experience the difference since we will be tasting 2 of the Roulerie, all of the Roches Neuves, and one of the Fesles wines next month.

Nigel, please let us kow how these, especially Thierry Germain's new look wines, are showing. At tastings, I have always preferred his more modest cuvées to the oaky Marginale, so it is good news if he is abandoning luxurious oak ageing; I only own 3 bottles of Marginale, 1996, and am hopeful that the oak has integrated by now. I have noticed that Insolite is becoming more mineral and focused.

BTW, many thanks for the information of the varietal make-up and ageing of Montus and Bouscassé.

Very good thread everyone. Going back for some more of the Rouliere Cab Franc, plenty on the shelf.
If I visit Europe this fall, will bring some over if no-one can find it over on your side of the pond!

This news is going to surprise a few people here. The `01 Bouscasse was one of the most popular wines served at a French tasting downtown tonight. There were 30 participants and 7 red wines.
The Rouliere Cab Franc (Loire) I posted on was a close second, a Cuvee De Vatican CdP was the next one liked by a few. I thought this `05 was way too soft!

That does indeed surprise me, Bob; especially since, before its 7th birthday, this wine is still quite young for Bouscassé. I haven't tasted 01 so I don't know whether it is unusually forward. What sort of audience was it? If it consisted of seasoned lovers of French wine, this preference is more understandable.

I had the 01 last night and it's seems to be still such a young tannic wine. The 04 Tempier Domaine is more approachable today than this wine. It would take seasoned French wine lovers to like it now. I liked it as in I like the old world style and the potential it shows for being a great wine in about 10 years and it's price point is far below a Tempier or high end Bandol. I didn't really like it as in I'd want to drink it now. I can get the 01 and 03 here. The 03 seems to be selling out fast and 01s are left behind. Does anyone know if the 03 is better than an 01?

Bryan

Thinking of opening the `00 Chateau de Perron Madiran this evening. It can still be found on the shelf here for around $16 which is a great price.
I agree with the store, this is a real sleeper.

Newbie to Madiran-are almost all Madirans meant to drink with some age? Even the less prestigious bottlings?

(side note. Tried a Sonoma County "claret" made by a local Solano County winemaker this weekend that included Tannat in the mix. That's a first!)

Newbie to Madiran-are almost all Madirans meant to drink with some age? Even the less prestigious bottlings?

(side note. Tried a Sonoma County "claret" made by a local Solano County winemaker this weekend that included Tannat in the mix. That's a first!)

I'd say so. Even the softer wines that have less of the hard tannat and more merlot like Meinjarre need time - often 10 years or more. A wine for those with patience.

For comparision sake, here are my impressions of the `00 Perron Madiran that I opened 2 nights ago.

WTN: `00 Madiran Chateau de Perron, R Crouzet.

13% alc, $16 Cdn, good natural cork, opened and decanted 2hrs. Still some available in town here.

Color. Deep ruby red with dark inky centre. Just a slight hint of evolvement on the rim.

Nose. Classic! Blackberries, leather, smoke, meaty, dried fruits, plums and very earthy. Huge package here.

Palate. Initial entry thought was still quite young. Good tannic structure, full-bodied, distinct flavors.
Wild berries, earthy, cigar-box and found the tea, like I had squeezed my Tetley tea-bag. This is serious stuff in my glass but not for the uninitiated! Softened up a little overnight and still going strong after 3 days. Diced up a lamb rack, pan-fried with snow peas and a side salad.