WTN: An excellent Washington Barbera

[Jenise]

2005 Viento Barbera, Lonesome Spring Ranch (Hood River), Columbia Valley
Gabe, one of my favorite local wine guys, knows exactly what I think of domestic Italian varietals (not much!) and in spite of that had the nerve to insist I try this one. The label says, "Our first effort with this [grape]...is vibrant and deep with aromas of anise and cherries...consistent flavors and great structure." They speak truth. I found boysenberry and black cherry fruit with cassia bark spice and fennel nicely framed by appropriate acid and tannins and pleasingly moderate (13.6%) alcohol. The fruit is ripe but not overly so, and the oak's subdued. Overall, a quite splendid and unusually competent new world Italian, and nicely priced at $20.

So far, I've only had two Barberas from Washington state, from Yellow Hawk and Morrison Lane, but I thought both were really good. Two (or three) wines do not a definitive statement make, but I do think this may be a grape with oenological potential for the region. (Market potential may be another matter.) Barbera's natural acidity might make it a particularly good match for transplanting to a climate that typically gets hotter in the summer than it does in Piedmont.

[Jenise]

So far, I've only had two Barberas from Washington state, from Yellow Hawk and Morrison Lane, but I thought both were really good. Two (or three) wines do not a definitive statement make, but I do think this may be a grape with oenological potential for the region. (Market potential may be another matter.) Barbera's natural acidity might make it a particularly good match for transplanting to a climate that typically gets hotter in the summer than it does in Piedmont.

Bruce, I've had the Yellow Hawk, which I though was surprisingly good, but this one might make an even better case for growing this grape here. Excellent point about the natural acidity.

Thanks for the tip. Sounds very interesting. I do pretty much avoid Italian grapes grown in the U.S. ... but from what I hear, people are starting figure the wheres an hows.

Jason