2005 Luneau-Papin, Muscadet Clos des Allées:
Another bottle and I see no need to change my previous note; ‘think alpine stream; fragrant, fresh, crystalline, clear, pure; sensational wine for $13.’
N/V Marques de Monistrol, Cava Brut Reserva:
11.5% alcohol and I think this tastes remarkably like a small grower Champagne; regardless, it’s crisp, bright and citric with a fine and persistent bead and a freshness that makes it so easy to drink. $9.
2004 Tissot, Chardonnay Arbois:
If this isn’t the purest under $20 chardonnay in the market today, it is certainly one of them. No wood, no syrup, no over-extraction; just clean, ripe chardonnay fruit with ample minerality and acidity. Has a shelf life but I’m drinking these faster than my cellar can hold them – maybe I’ll have to ‘lose’ one.
1993 Lopez de Heredia, Rosado Viña Tondonia
Opened to go with saffron pasta with pine nuts and parmesan, this was an ideal match. The wine is good on its own with pomegranate and strawberry scents and flavors, a vinous quality and a slight oxidative note – but with this dish it was spectacular. A match to remember and I bet it would be good with risotto Milanese, too.
2001 Bouchard Pere et Fils, Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot:
The wood is still somewhat drying on the palate but the wine smells and tastes better than it did on release. This may never overcome its barrel treatment but it seems to be trying. Solid Volnay character with good depth of fruit; a bit short. Considering I got this for $25, I’m not too disappointed and holding my remaining bottles seems appropriate. Although, it’s a bit discouraging considering what they are selling this for in more current vintages.
2005 Filipa Pato, Beiras Ensaios:
Another bottle of this Portuguese blend of indigenous grapes is just as good as the last one; smoky and full on the nose; earthy and full flavored in the mouth and good length. A wine of character, it has a certain unique element in the nose and on the palate – something like dirt or turned earth – that seems to work well with the nature of the fruit and the structure of the wine. $15 well spent.
2005 Dampt, Chablis Côte de Léchet:
One more bottle of this with pretty aromatics, a full but not cloying mouth feel and deep, wholesome fruit with a firm mineral undertone. This vineyard produces some very feminine and elegant Chablis and this producer has caught that essence in this bottle. Certainly, this could stand some cellar time but the premox thing that seems to be going around gives me pause.
2006 Qupé, Syrah Central Coast:
I tasted a couple bottles of this last week and went out and bought a case. Last night, I opened it for friends and everyone enjoyed it. Meaty, good varietal character, respectable depth, excellent balance, some complexity and no manipulation or wood in evidence. A wine that pretty much shows the basics of what I love about this grape and I am quite pleased to have a few more in waiting. $16.
2005 Cep, Syrah Sonoma Coast:
13.2% and supposedly the second label of Peay Vineyards; a wine that is similar to the Qupé mentioned above but is more California in style and shows its wood; the wood does not overwhelm by any means but, as far as I am concerned, if you can smell it or taste it, its too much, and you can do both with this wine. The difficulty here is that it does not enhance the wine but rather, it obscures varietal character and limits the intensity and length. Not a bad wine and, maybe with time in the cellar, better than it is now. But this was $25 and when I can buy the Qupé for $9 less, I really haven’t the inclination to experiment.
Best, Jim