Having gone a couple of years without finding Souverain chardonnay in any of my usual wine stores, I became concerned. When I first read that Francis Ford Coppola had purchased the Alexander Valley winery, it never occurred to me that there would be any change in distribution; my only concern was that the wine might change character.
I remember Jenise considering the chard very Californian in style, and not particularly appealing to her. We often agree on wines, but I consider Souverain to be one of the few terroir driven chards to come out of California.
Last night in preparation for a client dinner at Tim Schafer’s Cuisine in Morristown, New Jersey, I traveled a few miles to Gary’s Wine and Marketplace in Madison to buy the wine for the dinner. Tim Schafer’s serves no alcohol, but permits BYO with no corkage fee. I was surprised and delighted to find 2006 Souverain at Gary’s and purchased a few bottles along with an inexpensive 2004 Cru Bourgeois, Haut Maurac, and assorted other bottles to make up a case for the 20% discount.
Trying one of the Souverains at dinner, I think it is the finest vintage yet. Really earthy and wonderful; although it had a higher residual sugar content than purists would likely tolerate. I was so happy that the wine retains the character I like; and I hope Gary’s will ship to New York, as I can’t wait here until the store opens.
The 2004 Haut Maurac, which I also purchased, at $18, was wonderful, also. After I came back to the hotel with it, I couldn’t imagine why I had purchased such an inexpensive bottle for my client. Somewhat frantically, I looked around Morristown for an expensive bottle, but to no avail. Then upon closer examination of my motive, I realized that the more expensive bottles at Gary’s that I could remember perusing were probably too young to show well, and I intuitively thought the 2004 might actually drink best of what I looked at. My client loved it. It’s very complex and well balanced for such a modest property, and true to its terroir, in my estimation.
Potentially even riskier, because of its low cost and second wine status, than the Maurac, was the 2005 La Sacristie de la Vielle Cure I brought for a backup, in case the Maurac was corked. After polishing off the first two bottles, my client, who I didn’t realize enjoyed his wine quite so much, asked Gerardo, our waiter, who had been a sommelier in the UK, and is a terrific at his métier, to open the Fronsac. We polished off that one, too. I expected it to be a little spicy and able to stand up to the spicy theme of Tim Schafer’s, if called upon, but it was rather bland, but perfectly okay, and, as a non connoisseur might remark for want of more sophisticated descriptors, smooth.
Tim Schafer’s has a little alcove-like front room looking out to the street, which reminds me of the intimate private rooms you can enjoy in Chinese (the country) restaurants. I request it and very much enjoy it. My lovely Chinese MD associate, who I brought for technical discussion and enhanced flavor for the client, sat across from me and concurred about the Chinese atmosphere of the room. The doctor, like my client and me, had to drive after the dinner, so she didn’t drink much. Some folks might argue that Asians are smarter than Caucasians on average—or maybe just worse drivers.
Loving fey segues, I must report that for any non Asian who thinks this, they are being taken in by greater intelligence. I am quite sure that many Asians pretend not to notice other drivers, feigning Mr. Magoo, looking straight ahead and driving wherever they please, knowing others will give them birth. Remember that peripheral vision better intercepts movement than focus.
If any of my forum colleagues get to Morristown (Maria Samms lives here) you should try this very cozy and sensuous restaurant if you have the chance. Its website amply pictures and describes the eclectic New American cuisine. And Hyatt parking across the street is free in an arrangement with the restaurant.