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WTN: Goulart Paris, Luigi Bosca Malbec, Nairac Barsac

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Oswaldo Costa

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WTN: Goulart Paris, Luigi Bosca Malbec, Nairac Barsac

by Oswaldo Costa » Fri May 02, 2008 9:16 am

Both reds were decanted two hours before serving.

2005 Finca Lugilde-Goulart Paris Reserva (60% malbec/40% cabernet sauvignon; 13.7%)
I am interested in this producer for historical reasons because Gastão Goulart, grandfather of the owner, Erika Goulart, was one of the leaders of the failed São Paulo Constitutionalist Revolution of 1932, and was exiled to Argentina by the provisional government of Getulio Vargas, in which my grandfather was one of the leaders (perhaps I will be met with hostility if I ever visit…). Anyway, the story goes that, in 1998, Erika Goulart, rummaging among her grandfather’s papers, found a property title corresponding to some fincas in Mendoza from the times when her grandfather was exiled there. In the same year, she traveled with her Argentine husband to Mendoza and began to work these vineyards, which date back to 1915.
Onto the wine: this is the Finca’s third cuvee, after the grand vin malbec and malbec reserva, and also from 90+ year old vines. Deep cherry red, instead of the usual malbec purple red. Exotic and complex nose, with impressions of cloves, burnt sugar, kirsch, wet dishrag, and tobacco. As it opens in the glass, additional impressions of olives, cedar, plum, tar and mint. Slightly too acidic for the fruit, but close to balanced. I have seldom tasted so many different notes in a wine, but the pleasure this variety gave me was, alas, much more intellectual than sensorial. Score: 89.

2005 Luigi Bosca Malbec Reserva (100% malbec, 14%)
I was interested in this because it is a WS Best Buy and widely available here. Purple red, cocoa and cherry cordial on the nose, followed by either mint or eucalyptus in the mouth, with some well-integrated oak vanilla. Chunkier and less complex than the Paris, but better acid/fruit balance. Slightly hot - a touch too much alcohol for my taste, but a good effort as a straightforward malbec. Score: 88.

2001 Chateau Nairac Barsac (375 ml)
Delicious honey, peach and botrytis nose, unctuous mouth feel, long finish, a delightful barsac, highly recommended. Score: 93.
"I went on a rigorous diet that eliminated alcohol, fat and sugar. In two weeks, I lost 14 days." Tim Maia, Brazilian singer-songwriter.
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Jacques Levy

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Re: WTN: Goulart Paris, Luigi Bosca Malbec, Nairac Barsac

by Jacques Levy » Fri May 02, 2008 9:48 am

8) Fun story Oswaldo. I guess all is well now between the two families if you're drinking the Finca. (Unless they read about it and decide to send you a poisoned batch :wink: )
Best Regards

Jacques
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Mark S

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Re: Nairac Barsac

by Mark S » Fri May 02, 2008 2:04 pm

Oswaldo Costa wrote:2001 Chateau Nairac Barsac (375 ml)
Delicious honey, peach and botrytis nose, unctuous mouth feel, long finish, a delightful barsac, highly recommended. Score: 93.


Yes and Yes. This was definately one of the bargains to be had from this fantastic sweet vintage. From my little half bottle tried soon after receiving them, I didn't find it so unctuous, more light and lively, but then maybe it's developing that from bottle age. Otherwise, agree with your notes and score.

Mark

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