Each fall, I load up the car with a variety of wine from my cellar, which I keep in NC, and come south for the winter. Of course, when it’s close to time to return to the mountains, I’ve exhausted my choices and am usually down to several cases of wine I have purchased while in FL, almost all of them, by the case.
So right about now, I have quit writing tasting notes on stuff I’ve written about for most of the winter. Its not that I don’t enjoy those wines, it’s just that it’s the same old thing to write about.
Recent bottles, for which I have already written several notes include the 2006 Qupé, Syrah, Central Coast; Luneau-Papin, Muscadet, Semper Excelsior (schistes); 2005 Cep, Syrah; 2006 Chat. Grande Cassagne, Costières de Nîmes, Rosé; N/V Marquis de Monistrol, Cava Brut, Reserva; 2006 Robert Weil, Riesling Trocken (Qba); 2004 Tissot, Chardonnay; 2005 Dampt, Chablis, Côte de Léchet; and, the 2000 Chat. Cantelys, Pessac-Léognan. I think all are excellent examples of their ilk and all cost less than $25.
But I have come across one wine that cost a little more, that was surely worth it and that is completely different: the 2006 Emilio Rojo, Ribeiro, at $40 and imported by De Maison Selections. Made from treixadura, louieiro, torrontes, albariño and lado; the latter being an indigenous grape that Señior Rojo is almost singularly responsible for saving.
First sniff-age is like wandering through a field of wild flowers; it’s fresh, clean, lightly sweet and full of dimension – just a delight to smell. Obviously well made, with depth and considerable complexity in the mouth, substantial white fruit flavors, a laser beam of minerality and that precise balance that frames everything so well that I feel it’s a special wine. Very long and smooth but still bright and lip-smacking on the finish. IMO, a remarkable wine that shows me just how far certain producers in Spain have come.
Sometime in the next few weeks, Diane and I will head back to NC. There aren’t many wine stores up there but my cellar awaits and it is always a pleasure to get back to it – everything a bit older than when I left.
All those choices; then I’ll get back to writing more notes.
Best, Jim
