WTN /Wine Advisor: Fine, affordable Malbec

[Robin Garr]

Luigi Bosca 2006 "La Linda" Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza Malbec ($9.99)

Very dark garnet, clear reddish-violet edge. Fruit-forward aromas, black and red cherries. Flavors consistent with the nose, well structured with tart acidity, with smooth tannins becoming more evident in the finish. U.S. importer: Atlas Imports Inc., Waterford, Mich. (May 5, 2008)

FOOD MATCH: Malbec is a natural with red meat, and it also goes well with pizza and with the same kind of pasta dishes that would stereotypically call for Chianti. It was fine with spaghetti topped with fresh-tomato sauce and finely diced leftover steak.

VALUE: A fine value at the $10 point.

WHEN TO DRINK: Ready to drink, and that fresh, fruit-forward character won't last forever. It should hold for a year or two, but I'd enjoy it sooner rather than later.

WEB LINK:
The Luigi Bosca Website is published in Spanish, Portuguese and English. Here's an English-language fact sheet on the La Linda Malbec:
http://www.luigibosca.com.ar/2007/v8/en ... e.php?id=7

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Find sources and check prices for Luigi Bosca "La Linda" Malbec on Wine-Searcher.com:
http://www.wine-searcher.com/find/Bosca ... g_site=WLP

Subscribe to The 30 Second Wine Advisor

Another super Argentine Malbec about the same price is Kaiken. It's around 10 euros here; wine searcher shows it in the ten dollar range there. cheers, Bonnie

Finca La Linda is the entry level segment for Luigi Bosca. They produce a complete line of varietals which (in Argentina) includes 3 whites, 5 reds and also 1 sparkling wine. In Argentina, the La Linda varietals retail for approx. USD8-8.50 per bottle.

[Robin Garr]

Finca La Linda is the entry level segment for Luigi Bosca. They produce a complete line of varietals which (in Argentina) includes 3 whites, 5 reds and also 1 sparkling wine. In Argentina, the La Linda varietals retail for approx. USD8-8.50 per bottle.

You know, Alex, it's a funny thing ... I find that I often enjoy the entry-level Malbecs. If they're not fruit bombs, they tend to suit my style better than some of the more oaky reserves. It's hard to generalize, of course, but I find this true to some extent.

Robin... I agree that sometimes, the oak in the reserves (or more upscale offerings from producers) tends to show up quite a bit more than would sometimes be desired... alas, I also think its a case of taking some of the more concentrated wines too soon. Time value of money is a concern for every producer.... so I think that its wise to start taking some time and cellaring some of these stronger/bolder and more concentrated Malbecs - giving them the time they need to better work on oak-integration. Of course... some wines are just pushed to the outer limits in a way that its hard to fathom they will ever get around to being balanced.... but for the most part, I find that many of these Malbecs and Malbec relevant Blends are being popped way too early.

If I may be so bold as to make a suggestion... take 3 bottles of 3 middle level Malbecs and taste them over a 30 month period. My guess is that you will be pleasantly surprised.

[Robin Garr]

If I may be so bold as to make a suggestion... take 3 bottles of 3 middle level Malbecs and taste them over a 30 month period. My guess is that you will be pleasantly surprised.

Excellent idea! Give me an example or two of what you mean by "middle level," and I may just give it a try.

Well.... its hard for me to know exactly what is available in your neck of the woods, and also what your monetary definition of mid-level is... alas, here are a few names for you to consider:

Luigi Bosca Malbec DOC
Benegas Malbec
Felipe Rutini Malbec
Catena Alta Malbec
Felipe Rutini Apartado
Benegas Finca Libertad
Trapiche Gran Medalla Malbec

** (please note the above list has malbec varietals and also blends).

[Robin Garr]

here are a few names for you to consider:

Good news! I have seen all those producers except Benegas.

I have enjoyed many a bottle of the Felipe Rutini malbec. It sells for $13 in the US, $26 in the duty free shop of the São Paulo airport, and $50 in São Paulo store shelves, just to illustrate the never-ceases-to-amaze-me fact that Argentine wine costs much less in the US than anywhere else in the world, including Argentina.

[Robin Garr]

I have enjoyed many a bottle of the Felipe Rutini malbec. It sells for $13 in the US, $26 in the duty free shop of the São Paulo airport, and $50 in São Paulo store shelves, just to illustrate the never-ceases-to-amaze-me fact that Argentine wine costs much less in the US than anywhere else in the world, including Argentina.

I wonder how that works? It's not like the dollar is so strong these days!

I see in my TN files some notes on Rutini "Trumpeter," which appears to be a fairly low-end Malbec. I wonder if that's a label for US export, or just another line from Rutini.

[David M. Bueker]

From what I have seen the dollar is still quite strong in Argentina.

It's the sum of local consumption and sales taxes, which tend to be 100%, and import duties, also very high. On top of that, there is much less price competition (though that is improving).

I believe duty-free shops don't charge one of these taxes (not sure which), but still charge the other.

But when you export, everything leaves the country tax-free, and in the US, import duties are very low and price competition high (so that, for the most part, I have found European wine to cost less in the US than in Europe).

Unfortunately, less mature economies with endemic income tax evasion rely on consumption taxes to compensate. Sigh...

The Trumpeter is exported to Brazil too, and is not bad for the (even lower) price, but at $13 for the regular Malbec, I would always favor the latter.

The reasons that Argentine wine costs less in the US than in Argentina is complex.... but it basically boils down to the fact that prices are dictated by the US importers and distributors... and Argentine producers are fighting for market share... hence they have only minimal pricing power. Many of the producers that export have a loyal customer base in Argentina, so they are able to use their pricing power to obtain better profitability.