by Paul Winalski » Fri May 09, 2008 12:44 am
What Rahsaan said.
The German Praedikat standards merely set a minimum must weight (specific gravity for the unfermented grape juice--more or less equivalent to a measure of the sugar content). The rules don't set a maximum. So a producer could, if he wished, take grape must that assays at 150 degrees oeschle (enough for TBA) and release it as Kabinett. Or even just QbA. That would be perfectly legal. In practice it never happens, since a vast premium price can be charged if it's labeled as Trockenbeerenauslese vs. Kabinett.
But you do find producers who will release wine from must legally entitled to the designation Spaetlese as Kabinett, or Auslese as Spaetlese, etc. Sometimes, if the botrytis level isn't up to expectations, or if it's vinified drier than might be expected, this "declassification" is justified.
IMO, there's more to the flavor profile that I mentally expect when I see "Kabinett" or "Spaetlese" or "Auslese" on a label than just the specific gravity of the raw must from which the wine was produced. It's just as unwelcome to find an overripe and overly sweet wine that I bought expecting "Kabinett" as it is to get something too unripe and dry when buying "Auslese". The German Praedikat laws help guard against this last problem, but do nothing to help the former.
Must weight can be a useful guideline in producing various styles of German wine. Unfortunately, the German wine laws have turned it into a goal, when it's supposed to be just a tool and indicator.
-Paul W.