by Covert » Sat May 10, 2008 5:31 am
I consider Louis Jadot Gevery-Chambertin to be a Burgundy standardbred. I can’t afford thoroughbreds, so in my mind's eye this wine carries out all that can be Burgundy for me. And through it I view the different vintages.
When I first tasted the 1996 I was harked back to the finest bottles from Burgundy I had experienced, only through the grace of others, millionaires I had acquaintance with. To me it was what Burgundy was all about, that ineffable joy that makes life what it should be.
I had only a case of it, and once gave a bottle to a lady with whom I worked after she told me she liked Burgundy. The bottle became a lifelong nexus between us. She shared it with a man who ran a little river inn. They sat up half the night awakened by what they both considered the best wine they had ever drunk. If it wasn’t for my millionaire acquaintances, I would not argue with that evaluation. It was like visiting a lost childhood spring in a dream, or some other exalted private reverie.
You can never go home again. (I don’t have to quote that because he really didn’t say it – as nobody said play it again, Sam, either. Such thoughts come from the soul of man after they think someone else said them.) But year after year I buy the same “brand” hoping for a hint of redux. Hence the 2005 I drank last night, from the “best vintage in a generation.” I know someone knowledgeable said that.
The difference in the growing seasons was that there was more rain in 1996, more resultant malic acid. The crop was also more abundant, raising fears of hollow mid palates, but all in all it was a very good vintage. The 2005 season was dryer, warmer and bunches were thinned out to produce better concentration.
The difference in the two bottles, however, was night and day. There was no comparison. The 2005 reminds me of 2005 Bordeaux a little in that you can taste class and complexity, but somehow there is not much interest. The 2005 tasted very much like many other years and mass market brands of Burgundy Pinot Noir. Very good, but I only have to purchase that single bottle from 2005—still waiting. I hope there is no conspiracy to hide whatever 1996 was from the children of men.