Saturday, May 17, 2008
NEW YORK GOLD poured out of the Tasters’ Guild International Wine Competition in Michigan, with over 200 awards including 8 Double Gold, 31 Gold, 99 Silver and 71 Bronze medals. The Double Golds included Heron Hill Late Harvest Vignoles, Lakewood Cabernet Franc, Lamoreaux Landing Chardonnay Reserve, Pindar Late Harvest Chardonnay, Six Mile Creek Riesling, Torrey Ridge Traminette and Blue Sapphire, and Wagner Vidal Ice Wine. Gold medals went to Casa Larga Vidal Ice Wine and Meritage; Chateau Frank Blanc de Blancs; Chateau LaFayette Reneau Riesling, Dry Riesling and Chardonnay; Dr. Frank Rkatsiteli; Duck Walk Boysenberry; Glenora Brut, Pinot Blanc, Dry Riesling and Seyval; Heron Hill Late Harvest Riesling; Hosmer Riesling; Hunt Country Vidal Ice Wine and Vignoles; Keuka Spring Dry Riesling and Miller’s Cove Red; Knapp Kit Knapp Pink; Lakewood Glaciovinum; Pindar Mythology; Sheldrake Point Dry Rosé, Dry Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon; Thirsty Owl Diamond; Torrey Ridge Cayuga, Lemberger and Summer Delight; Wagner Dry Riesling and Cabernet Franc. Full results are available at http://www.tastersguild.com. In last weekend’s Wine Press about the Riverside results, I accidentally omitted mention of Swedish Hill’s Raspberry Infusion—made by soaking raspberries in grape brandy—as a Chairman’s Award winner and part of the “sweepstakes” round. A running list of “New York Gold” is under that section at http://www.newyorkwines.org.
FARM BILL passed overwhelmingly in both houses of Congress, meaning that even if President Bush vetoes it, as threatened and expected (likely hurting his party in November), it is virtually certain that his lame-duck veto will be overridden. This is highly significant not only because the Farm Bill lasts for five years, but especially because this version represents a sea change in policy by finally recognizing the value of “specialty crops” like grapes and wine (and apples, dairy, maple, vegetables, and much else) to the nation’s health and economy. Previously, Farm Bills were basically enormous subsidies for “program crops” like corn, cotton, soybeans and wheat, which essentially went to massive corporations rather than family farmers. The “specialty crop” support doesn’t involve crop subsidies, but rather essential funding for research, promotion, and export assistance. The vote in the House was 381-106, and in the Senate 81-15. New York Senators Hillary Clinton and Charles Schumer both strongly supported the bill (Senator John McCain opposed it), as did 27 of 29 New York Representatives (only Reps. Fossella and King voted no). WineAmerica played a vital role in rallying the wine industry nationwide as part of a broader Specialty Crops Coalition of many different organizations. This new bill will provide a major, and much needed, boon to New York’s agricultural industry, which is comprised largely of specialty crops that make New York one of the nation’s major agricultural states.
CULINARY TOURISM is the fastest growing niche in the tourism industry, and I had the pleasure of giving a presentation this week about the New York wine industry’s success in this area at the Governor’s Tourism Conference at The Sagamore on Lake George in the Adirondacks. Erik Wolf, President of the International Culinary Tourism Association, gave a broad overview of the trend toward culinary tourism, and I provided several integrated examples—the New York Wines & Dines program, New York Wine & Culinary Center, “Taste of New York” public television series and cookbook, and events at wine trails and wineries. It’s all part of the “experience economy”, where people are looking for a total “Wow” experience—a nice wine tasting, great meal, comfy accommodations, friendly people—that makes them tell other people and come back again. (I gave essentially the same presentation two weeks ago in Napa Valley, which gave us the original inspiration and now likes our ideas.) While there are many elements in our culinary tourism program, I think that particular credit must to go wineries—like Wagner, Glenora, Knapp, Bully Hill, Fox Run, Red Newt, Sheldrake Point and others—which opened fine restaurants on their premises when restaurateurs were reluctant to do so. They provide a total experience of New York wines with New York foods in New York restaurants—New York Cuisine—right on the spot.
I LOVE NY program also unveiled its new, approved program, “Re-imagine Your New York”, that will preserve the iconic I Love NY logo brand designed by the incredible Milton Glaser, while broadening it well beyond New York City, with which it is associated so strongly despite the best intentions of Empire State Development Corporation. The heart-themed logo will now include multiple mini-symbols (one at a time) to symbolize wine (grape clusters), historic battlefields (a cannon), wilderness (a butterfly and squirrel), and many other things beyond the Big Apple. The campaign will also use the worldwide awareness and popularity of New York City to let other tourists know there is another “New York”—in fact, many—that are just as exciting and well within reach. The program got a big boost this year with more than a 50% budget increase, and has hired some top advertising and public relations firms to create and execute the program. The two-day program of seminars was excellent with one exception: The location of the “I Love NY” conference, the historic and elegant Sagamore Resort, does not have ONE New York wine on its list, and several conference attendees complained that at Wednesday night’s opening reception (I got there too late) there were only two New York beers and zero New York wines. (As a courtesy to the I Love NY program, we contributed the wines for Thursday night’s Governor’s reception and dinner.) I asked to meet with the Sagamore’s General Manager, who was out sick; and then the Food & Beverage Director, who never answered his phone; so I left my card with the concierge (who wouldn’t give me their names or extensions), asking that they call me, which they have not done. Some people suggest we should seek legislation requiring that any state agency conference be held only in facilities that regularly feature New York wines, and serve ONLY New York wines (paid for) at the conference. In the meantime, if you would like to comment, go to http://www.TheSagamore.com and let them know how you feel; or call 518-743-6208 and ask for the General Manager and/or Food & Beverage Director to voice your opinion.
ROBERT MONDAVI, a legend in the world of wine, passed away this week, leaving a legacy that will last for decades. Mr. Mondavi was a true visionary whose unusual approach—California first, Napa Valley second, Robert Mondavi winery third—ran counter to the more self-centered approach of most wineries; and was based on the premise that a rising tide lifts all boats—if you create awareness and demand for California wines, Napa Valley will certainly get its share, as will Robert Mondavi winery. I had the pleasure of being with him on several occasions—at a pre-dedication event at COPIA in Napa, when there were only skeletal I-beams in place and no roof (fortunately the weather was good); in Washington, DC, where he made his impassioned pitch to legislators that “wine is liquid food” and unveiled “The Mission” to spread the word about wine’s many virtues; and most memorably on a perfect September Day in 1993 after the blessing of the harvest when I sat between him and his wife Margrit Biever during an incredible luncheon. It was one of the most unforgettable days of my life. As successful and famous as he was, what really impressed me was what a nice guy he was—friendly, approachable, down-to-earth and kind. That’s what I will remember about Bob Mondavi.
“Wine to me is passion. It’s family and friends. It’s warmth of heart and generosity of spirit. Wine is art. It’s culture. It’s the essence of civilization and the art of living.”
--Robert Mondavi