WTN: Austria does white Burgundy

Hopefully by now we're all hip to the fact that Austria is kicking out world-class wines with Grüner Veltliner, Riesling and even red wines (from vines Austrian and imported.) What don’t get much play are the 'other' whites. Personally I've been increasingly amazed by the high quality of Chardonnay and Pinot whites being produced in the far eastern reaches of Austria in Burgenland (not to forget Styrian Sauvignon, many of which outclass those of NZ and even the Touraine.) Insane as it might sound (and certainly the smallish production is a factor) Austria is becoming a force to reckon with in for all of your white wine needs.

Claus Preisinger Heideboden White 2006

I expect big things from Claus Preisinger in the red wine department, but this white (chardonnay/weissburgunder) is a very pleasant surprise. It is also a little bit of a bridge-builder in that it mashes the styles of some familiar Burgundian flavors and sensibilities with a new world punch. There is big fruit –delicious yellow, pineapple, pear, even banana, but also marzipan, cinnamon, and slight vanilla and coconuttiness. Texturally, It is the equal of many village Chassagne-Montrachet, but blind I might guess a riper vintage Pouilly-Fuisse, with the fruit of Santa Barbara chard.13,5% Alc. $30

I would second Bill, especially about Styrian wines. The Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and Gelber Muskateller from just about any winery in South Styria are almost sure to satisfy. The Traminer I've found more spotty but definitely worth a try. Aside from a few big names, most in the Klassic category are reasonably priced too (e.g., $12 - $18). The problem is finding them in the US. Many of the retailers whose names frequently appear here do offer a few, but I've been able to find only one place with a large selection and it's in California. Even so, swallowing the shipping costs to New York can almost make it worthwhile; well sort of almost anyway.

Thanks for the note! I recently tried some Südsteiermarks from Sattlerhof that made me quite interested in this area. Have you tried Prieler's whites? I was very taken by their Blaufränkisch so have been thinking of going to a wine bar here to try the Chardonnay as well.

Lucky you to have some South Styrians available at a wine bar. I haven't tried anything from Prieler, but Chardonnay could have been included with the wines I mentioned. I'm generally not a fan of Chardonnay but the few South Styrians I had were quite good.

Otto,

I haven't tried the Prieler Chardonnay, but I understand it to be good. No oak. Prieler does make excellent Pinot Blanc though -both the Leithaberg and Seeberg are dynamite.

Dan, Prieler is from Burgenland, but I too love Styrian Chardonnay.

The last thing Austrian winemakers need to do is ape Burgundian styles. I had long hoped that Austria, one of the few places where chardonnay travels under a different name (Morillon), might resist the urge to "internationalize." But apparently this is not to be. I've tasted barrel-aged gruner veltliner from Tegernseerhof, "Creation," and I just think it is a bad direction. Since Tanzer gave the wine 90 points ("Powerful and voluminous, with a seamless texture, a complicating note of acacia honey, and a sweet finish") I doubt whether my opinion will carry much weight. Nonetheless, we fight the good fight, and encourage producers to stick with varietally correct wines with regional typicity.

I haven't tried the Prieler Chardonnay, but I understand it to be good. No oak. Prieler does make excellent Pinot Blanc though -both the Leithaberg and Seeberg are dynamite.

I seem to remember the importer saying that it did see oak - which is why I haven't yet rushed to drink it. As usual, I'll post a note once I do. Sadly the Pinot Blancs aren't available here.

I haven't tried the Prieler Chardonnay, but I understand it to be good. No oak. Prieler does make excellent Pinot Blanc though -both the Leithaberg and Seeberg are dynamite.

I seem to remember the importer saying that it did see oak - which is why I haven't yet rushed to drink it. As usual, I'll post a note once I do. Sadly the Pinot Blancs aren't available here.

Otto,

Sorry, It depends on the Chardonnay. the Sinner is stainless steel, the Seeberg is barrique. We don't get the Seeberg here.