This was the fourth or fifth time that this group of wine lovers had met under the guidance of Pierre Ghysens of TGVins to study the progress of eight, mostly famous, white Burgundies from the well regarded 2000 vintage. This was the first time I attended; apparently most of the wines were not drinking well on the previous occasions but it was hoped that with time they would open up to realize the potential worthy of their names. Hence there was a lot of pleasurable anticipation of this tasting nearly 8 years after the vintage.
In the event only three of the wines were showing well; another was passable; three showed deviant flavours accompanied in two cases by oxidative notes and in one by corkiness; the last was corked spoiling an evident splendour.
Three good bottles out of eight in a “good” vintage is an absolutely unacceptable performance from the prestige end of the white Burgundy industry. Although the rare successful bottles of grands and 1ers crus can be sublime, I am glad that I have bought none since the mid-90s.
The wines were served blind in the following order.
Givry Petit Marole – Domaine François Lumpp (EUR 22,32 for 2006)
N: Yeast, fresh toast, white fruit, minerals and a touch of burnish.
P: A very pretty wine showing attractive white fruit, good mineral acidity and grip, “gras” and fair length; 16/20.
Meursault Rougeot – Domaine J-F Coche-Dury
N: At first almost aggressively flinty and mineral but with more flesh and nutty fruit coming up later.
P: Very structured, very mineral and very long with at first some green apple but with exposure to air the wine broadened and softened whilst retaining an austere distinction. Needs more time but should become grandiose; 16.5 now with ++ potential.
Bâtard-Montrachet – Domaine Leflaive (EUR 132 for 2004)
N: Quite subdued at first but opening up to warm white fruit, nuts and honey with mineral hints.
P: Quite big and showing much sweeter and softer fruit than the previous with excellent breadth and length but with residual caramel notes from wood ageing and some heat on the finish and a slightly cloying after-taste. I would have expected more from this cru and estate but this may be the favourite of the pointy people: 15.5:20.
Criots-Bâtard Montrachet – Domaine Blain-Gagnard (EUR 90,11 for 2006)
N: “Different” said the person invited to have the first taste. Funky with strong notes of boiled cabbage at first but some more orthodox fruit then came up but not completely effacing the off aromas.
P: Some “gras”, white fruit, minerals and burnish but curdled and metallic (oxidative?) notes became more dominant towards the finish. An off bottle or are they all like this? 12.5/20.
Meursault Goutte d’Or – Domaine Bouzereau.
N & P: Thin, undernourished and metallic with TCA peeping through. N/R. Apparently two previous bottles of this were corked.
Bâtard-Montrachet – Domaine Blain-Gagnard (EUR 90,11 for 2006)
N & P: In a similar vein but even worse than the Criots from the same stable; 11/20.
Chevalier-Montrachet – Domaine Leflaive (EUR 185 for 2003)
N & P: “At last” was the first split second impression but then TCA came wafting up. A pity because there was some real splendour here. N/R
Corton-Charlemagne – Domaine Laleure-Piot (EUR 55,50)
N: Quite waxy and nutty.
P: Somewhat monochrome and up-front with marked minerality and dashes of salt but not much generosity. Probably still holding something back and Pierre reported that it was improving with air but I had given up by then; 14.5/20.