Last night I gathered some friends for a tasting in which the choice of wines was based on four cheeses and a fig & almond tart I brought back from New York. The order was, then, based on the anticipated strength of the wines.
With Tomme du Berger (sheep’s milk), Corsica
2006 Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino
Nice minerality on the nose, with citrus and a whiff of pineapple. Some butter and sweetness on the palate, refreshing, but somewhat hollow mid-palate. Not bad but not great. Score: 87
With Berthaud Époisses (cow’s milk), Burgundy (I prefer Chalancey Époisses, but harder to find)
2003 Gabriel Billard Pommard Les Vaumuriens
Classic pinot light ruby color, gentle and mildly tart cherry aromas, medium weight in the mouth, good fruit/acid balance, not at all hot, as might be expected for the vintage, very pleasant but not much complexity, with a curious mixture of delicacy and rusticity. Score: 88
Pyrenées Ossau Vieille (sheep’s milk), Pyrenées
2003 Finca Luzon Jumilla Altos de Luzon
Lots of oak vanilla on the nose, and some plum. Tastes of chocolate, blackberries, and some smoke. Lacks specificity, perhaps because it is a blend of monastrell, tempranillo, and cabernet. Good but not great. Score: 88
With Mistura Beira Rodão (cow and sheep’s milk), Portugal
2003 Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva V.V.
Had high hopes for this, from one of my favorite producers, but was somewhat disappointed. Similar oak vanilla on the nose as previous wine, but with more alcohol. Tart and smoky in the mouth, chocolate, with sweetness and acidity that strike separate notes, unsatisfying because not integrated. Score: 87
With Spanish fig & almond tart
1997 Niepoort Vintage Port
Nose of molasses and cloves, confirmed by the palate, plus some plum and tobacco. A very fine port. Score: 91.
All-in-all, a less than fully satisfying wine evening, but with good cheese, great company and atmosphere, and lots of laughs.
