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WTN: Alberto Marsetti - Grumello '95

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Agostino Berti

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WTN: Alberto Marsetti - Grumello '95

by Agostino Berti » Sun May 25, 2008 7:37 pm

This is a wine from Valtellina, considered pre-alps or alps I'm not sure, in the region of Lombardy in Italy. 100% Nebbiolo

Alberto had kindly given me this wine as a gift. It was a bottle he had re-claimed from a restaurant that I guess didn't settle its debts. Therefore storage was a question mark.

Note: Wow! Idyiosincratic nose! So complex and weird its hard to describe - minestrone and manure comes close. Love it. The color is just as complex with beautiful cherry in the middle then various shades of orange reaching flat out yellow on the rim. You would think it was oxcidized and gone but no-ho! don't be fooled by the paradoxes of the Nebbiolo grape - You don't choose to drink nebbiolo, nebbiolo chooses you!
Fantastic in the mouth especially with some thick slices of Bussero salami, fresh bread, insalata russa and cornichons. Truly subtle in an expansive way. Needs food though, like all Valtellina wines, to bring out the magic. 13 years seems to be the right number for ageing Marsetti wines of which I have quite a numerous stash. We only have four years to wait for the 99's, a powerful vintage in Valtellina.

Next day: The nose has settled down and is much less weird and more nebbioloish and subtle. The manure is a distant howl of a mountain wolf. The mouth is more fruity and full. A very smooth, pleasant, medium bodied wine. The wine yesterday put on a bizarre tap dance show and today its in the study reading.

Overall I'm impressed, although since Alberto is my friend I admit to being a bit partial.

The thing about good Valtellina Nebbiolo is, its so compressed, seemingly thin and acidic when young it really needs long-term ageing. With patience the result is a burgundian barolo for half the price. Which is what we really want anyway since Barolo can be so brutal, gigantic, unpredictable and plodding.

Regards,
Agostino
“Seekers of gold dig up much earth and find little.”
― Heraclitus

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