Taste Wines Like a Sommelier: Oregon and Washington State wines
At Zely and Ritz Restaurant in Raleigh on May 28th, led by Nancy Agasi.
We followed the usual format of the series by tasting three white grape varieties blind and trying to identify the variety followed by the first course, seeing how it paired with the three wines. Then we tasted three reds and tried to identify the variety, followed by second course. Then dessert--all for $50.
I was only about half correct in identifying the varieties. Of the three whites I thought the first was Pinot Gris or Pinot Blanc (it was Pinot Gris), correctly identified the second as Riesling, and got the third as Chardonnay but thought it had some oak treatment when it didn't. With the reds, the second one was my only correct identification.
The first wine was 2007 Elk Cove Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon. It was pale and transparent without viscosity. I found apple on the nose and possibly pear. Others named kumquat and grapefruit. On the palate it was slightly chewy, refreshing with some acid. 13% alcohol
Wine #2 was 2006 Waterbrook Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington. Transparent and leggy on the glass. I wasn't getting much nose from it but others were saying flowery. Mouth-filling, chewy, has some residual sugar and tasted to me like a late harvest (but wasn't.) This was my favorite wine of the night and at $14 a bottle, a real bargain. I ordered two bottles for later pickup.
Wine #3 was 2007 A-Z Chardonnay. (Washington State? I didn't see the bottle label on this one.) I picked up fig on the nose. Others named kumquat, pear and quince (quince sounded right to Nancy and to me once someone named it.) I thought I also smelled some oak since it had more aroma than I usually credit Chardonnay as having. However, the label apparently said no wood.
The lady next to me correctly judged it to be an non-oaked Chardonnay.
I liked all three white wines. The Pinot Gris and the Chardonnay went best with the first course (a delicious oyster stew with kohlrabi, onions and local potatoes) (the restaurant has a tie-in with organic Coon Rock Farms.) Most thought the Pinot Gris was a better match than the Chard but both worked for me.
The red wines...
2006 Maysara Jamsheed Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Oregon
This puzzled me and several others--the pale garnet color suggested Pinot Noir but I wasn't getting P.N. nose and flavors. I thought it was Merlot. Jessica thought it was Syrah although we both thought the color was more like Pinot Noir. Pale ruby or garnet color; slightly viscous. Big nose--sweetish with red licorice, pomegranate and some said cherry and plum. Tastes sweet, not tannic. Wasn't crazy about this one. Wine Spectator gave the 2005 vintage 90 points. Retails in the $20-$25 range.
Red Wine #2 2006 Barnard Griffin Merlot
(The '04 vintage sold for $15.75) The winery is in Richland next to Bookwalter.
I did guess this as Merlot (got one right). Darker, more opaque than the previous wine. Crimson color, viscous. Nose of black cherries and black berries. Some vanilla. On the palate, long drying finish, vanilla, chocolate cherries and a bit of pepper. 14% alcohol.
Red Wine #3 2004 Novelty Hill Syrah, Columbia Valley, WA
Darker still and very opaque. Scents identified by the group included prune, black currant, blueberry. 14.1% alcohol
I was expecting a Cabernet Sauvignon for the last wine but before I had made up my mind as to the variety, someone else correctly identified Syrah. Received ratings from 88 points to 90 points by the national press. Sells for about $19.50 to $22.
The three reds were then tried paired with the second course of Wild Columbia River Gorge King Salmon with local organic onions, roasted potatoes and sauce. None of the wines really complemented the dish but the Pinot Noir came closest. I asked Nancy what she would serve the Merlot with and she said maybe duck in a fruit sauce.
Dessert was cobbler from local blueberries with Sarig Agasi's homemade vanilla ice cream. The whole dinner was delicious.